I have a 54 cab that I'm using but changing it over to 51 with split w/shield. Solid cab so thought it easier to change roof and cowl panel. Got new parts everything looks good until the upper corners are not going together real easy. the reinforcement corners at the top don't want to line up very well. I don't have an assembly manual for measurements and I'm at a cross roads trying to figure it out. Anyone tried this before that could give me some direction or would an assembly manual have answers? I figured that since post parts were listed as the same then the roof and cowl panel would change out and everything line up fairly easy. If the door frame assembly is different on 51 back but the same for 52 up 1st series then the upper attachment plate that the cross brace welds to should be the same. Roof and cowl panels show to be the same 47 up to 53 I believe. Also, anyone had some experience with smooth firewall replacement panels...mine is good but has a load of holes in it and I thought it would be better to replace and then drill what is needed instead of welding old holes and filling. Thanks for any help and advice on this....
You like biting off big chunks at a time I can see. Maybe change your handle to Boltcrazy. I have replaced a front cowl as well as the dash with new panels. It was a lot of work! The parts did not fit like a glove. I still have my fingers and toes crossed that the glass will fit the holes.
You are talking about removing all but a few feet of the entire windshield openings with aftermarket panels. You will require more than wishes for good luck from me. You will need a lot of skill and a lot of patience.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Understand that...I need more info as to measurements than I have that's for sure. I did corvettes for years and fiberglass is a bit more forgiving and I had plenty of sources for details. This stuff is a different ballgame. If I had something even rusty I could measure would be a big help. After market stuff is another can of worms. I'm hoping someone has some source of measurements or something.
Anyone have a 1951 3100 series truck they would measure the windshield frame with pic's and dimensions? Need sizes without glass installed to get frame widths and heights and a cross measurement. Also need inside door post width edge to edge. Thanks for any help....
Give me a day or two. My cab is sitting bare on a rolling pallet. I can get some measurements for you. Not sure what you mean about inside door post width edge to edge.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Thanks for the help on the measurements when you get a chance...that door post to post is the width from post to post. That will give me an idea if the width has closed up or not. When I took the cowl and roof panel loose I thought there would be enough metal to keep the posts from moving but don't know for sure without a measurement. The biggest issue is the windshield opening measurements.
Here's some measurements for you. I tried to measure from the door post weld locations, which are a little fuzzy. It seems my cab is just a touch asymmetrical or the center strip is just a bit off center. Weld checking dimensions from the FAM are typically only good to +/- 1/16", so these should get you in the ballpark.I also added a couple dimensions to windshield flange from the center of the rear window (lower flange), which might help you keep things lined up.
Let me know if you need clarification on any of these or another dimension or two.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Added some pic's on the above previous post. All went well except the firewall bottom corner won't fit in like it should. Aftermarket stuff just doesn't always fit in well. The firewall panel had some bent corners when I unpacked it but thought it would work out. It's closer than it was...lol
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Having issues with cowl panel repair panel installation with the gap between it and rh door. The gap set on the outside with the door edge, the fit on the panel on the inside to the A post is way off...see pic. Can't rationalize why the gap is off so much. Top of the panel is close but as the panel should meet the edge of the A post the farther down it goes the wider the gap. The upper w/s cap on both sides is off in relationship to the door edge there also. It's as if the cap panel is not wide enough.
Aftermarket panels NEVER fit exactly. You have to beat them into submission. The saving grace is that metal can be moved. Just be sure the critical dimensions are OK. You may need to slide and dice your roof panel to get things to fit.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Can the geometry of the angle of the bottom of the A Post make the difference in the gap of the door to the cowl panel?? I measured it to the other side and thought it was OK...but I do not have a measurement of the width across the floor pan from side to side of the 2 A Posts to compare and see if mine is too wide or too narrow. The gap between the frt of the rh door closed at the rocker is wider than the other side, the gap frt to back is much wider than the left door. The other side door closed has the bottom of the door even frt to back and tight to the rocker panel.
You'd be surprised how a box will change dimensions as you push on a corner. If your rockers and floor are welded in at the hinge pillar, you might consider cutting them loose to adjust to the dimensions given in the FAM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.