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Today was running my 52 Chevy truck with a 235
Truck has been converted to 12volt when I bought it.
I had the truck rewired a couple of years ago and put an alternator
So it was running for about 1/2 hour today I put a
Electric fan on to keep it from overheating while idling I was messing with the carburetors . So after I shut it off and tryed to restart it got nothing not even a click
What should I look for ? I do know I have other electric issues like dim lights and rapid blinking blinkers also dim .
This truck is really beating me down with so many issues supposed to get better with upgrades and repairs I seem to keep getting worse.
Thoughts and ideas needed.
Thanks

How long did it sit before you tried a restart? Did you check to see if the battery was dead? Is the fan set not to run forever if the ignition is off?

That would be a start.

Ed

Truck wouldn’t start within a minute or so I shut if off than tried to restart and nothing. The electric fan is hooked up to a toggle switch my idea was use it when idling in the driveway working on it so not to overheat.

"You've got mail"!

Jerry

Didn’t get to check ground wires just yet have been trying to get the mechanical stuff fixed first the snow ball effect water pump than fuel pump exhaust pipes redone at the new headers. I do read here a lot just not to much truck time long work weeks and busy non truck weekends
Appreciate all reply’s seems a new issue keeps popping up .
Deep breath’s I remind myself

Yes I have headlights (dim) has electric fan controlled by a toggle switch,have to get a volt meter to check the battery for 12 volts.

I wanted you to try various items one at a time to see if you have some juice. You did try the lights, that's good. Wanted you to try the fan and anything else electrical. Sounds like enough juice to at least click. You said no click. Will wait for a voltage check. Touch the battery posts when checking, NOT the cable clamps. Take a reading. Then touch clamps and take another reading. REPORT READINGS. We can not move forward without a full battery. 12.6V is the goal, or near. Don't charge it up until voltage tests are done.

1. Do you have a foot start or an electrical solenoid start? I assume a foot start.
2. Are you experienced with auto electrical at all?
3. Do you have a battery charger? and/or a jump box?
4. Do you have original points distributor?
5. Disconnect the fan from the electrical system for now.

Get a voltmeter/multimeter and an ice pick voltage tester also.

There are several items that could be the culprit, we will move down the list. Your issues will probably all go away at once when we find the trouble.

Thanks Bartamos
I will have to get a voltage meter and get it checked out yes it’s a foot starter.
And yes I have it always on a battery tender/charger when it’s not on the truck.

When the cause is finally determined you will probably slap your forehead in disbelief. Yup, it will be that simple. Please heed bartamos’ advise. Slow your roll and do one test at a time, then post your results. Yes, it will take longer but it will help us to help you. It will be frustrating if it isn’t already but worth it in the end. If you are going to do the work yourself please get the proper testing tools. I’m sure there are discount tool outlets out your way where a multi-meter and an ice pick tester won’t cost over $20. I’m sure bartamos is waiting with baited breath for the results of your battery test. Good luck.

You kind of thru me off with "not even a click". That phrase is used when a person has an electric solenoid starter where you rotate the key to a start position momentarily and then let go when it starts. Like all your newer vehicles. The "no click" means the solenoid is not even trying to cycle.

In your case there is a foot pedal that operates linkage that slides a gear into the flywheel gear and at the same time pushes a button on top of the starter to make the starter spin. So even if the battery is dead you will have lots of "clicks".

So open the hood and look at all that mechanism. Have someone push on the pedal with the key off so you can see how it all works. Observe if the gear is sliding toward the flywheel and observe of a lever pushes on a big button on top of the starter.

I guess you are saying that your truck battery is always on a trickle charger. Is that right? So I guess it will show 12.6V when you check it. So if it does and the battery is not "breaking down" the instant you push the pedal, and when you observe under the hood, the big button gets fully pushed, then we know it's either that big button switch or the starter or cables or ground.

So now you know what you are looking for. You know you have to familiarize yourself with how it all works so you can catch something that does not look right. Be careful and be sure truck is in neutral with Ebrake on. Even with key off, the motor can start for a split second. Truck would lurch if not in neutral.
So we are now trying to find out if battery has 12.6V, if button on starter gets pushed and if starter spins. Let's don't use the words "not even a click". Let's describe what is or is not happening under the hood.

Also be advised that all we have to work with is what we can learn from you. You have been skipping a few questions. I need them all answered or I wouldn't ask. Go back and read the post and be sure you have answered every question. Without these answers you are shutting down your own post.

Take battery OFF charger before measuring. Report both measurements as described. Posts/clamps. Don't do anything or replace anything without telling us.

Very very small update I was able to pick up a volt meter and the battery read
13.6 no time this weekend to check charging system to see if it will go above 14