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'Bolter
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17" .. I am trying to redo mine with the cracks in it.. but wondering where I can get a new one? headscratch Everything starts at 1941 and up computerdeath Can the '41 be used? Any difference in spline? Thanks in advance guys.

Last edited by 38_1.5Ton; 03/22/2021 3:47 PM.

'38 1.5ton; "The stuff is as tough as woodpecker lips"
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'Bolter
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Good luck finding a new wheel! There are places that restore them, and kits as well. That being said, I'm pretty sure that the spline is the same on the '41.

For what it's worth, the spline is also the same as the '60's MoPars. I know that because I had a '48 Chevy with a Plymouth steering wheel.


1953 Chevy 6100 dump truck
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'Bolter
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I see. If spline is the same, then it can be used.. Can anyone confirm for sure? I assume the 41's are also 17"..


'38 1.5ton; "The stuff is as tough as woodpecker lips"
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'Bolter
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There are restoration shops out there like

https://www.steeringwheelbob.com/

and the big auction site to buy used wheels.

I believe the splines are the same for decades, but the steering wheel hub may not fit your column tube.

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo
1984 Jeep CJ7
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Thanks for the link Mike. That guy Bob is real good but thats an expensive process vs $174 wheel.. I imagine if the column tube is slightly too big, the wheel could be sanded just a smidge.. too small.. I could use a shim of sorts.. The main thing is it tightens down good on that spline. Does anyone have a '46 column measurement? If so, I can measure mine and we can what the difference is! [edit] I just got a tip, looks to be 2.5" .. So I will have to measure mine...

Last edited by 38_1.5Ton; 03/22/2021 6:15 PM.

'38 1.5ton; "The stuff is as tough as woodpecker lips"
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So the tube on mine appears to be 1.75" vs the 41 of 2.5". Considering the spline fits, does it matter? Can I just place a shim on the inside to make it work? I mean, its the spline and bolt that really turn it right? Your thoughts? ohwell
Attachments
steer1.jpg (126.11 KB, 93 downloads)
steer2.jpg (239.57 KB, 94 downloads)
steer41.jpg (164.41 KB, 93 downloads)


'38 1.5ton; "The stuff is as tough as woodpecker lips"
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Sir Searchalot
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Yes the spline is the same.
I don't know exactly how the steering wheel fits, By that I mean what stops it, what does it bottom out on when installed. I don't know where or what the "shim" will do. Are you worried how it will look or how it will rotate with out hitting the tube? A pic of the top of your tube with wheel ready to install, pic half installed and pic installed, all taken from bottom/side angle. I can then answer the questions if no one else responds.
Does the 1.75 tube have to go inside the bottom skirt/recess of the wheel to look right.....or butt up with a clearance gap. Again, what built-in stop is there to prevent the wheel from rubbing on top of tube on a 38/41 combo?
You speak of a shim/spacer "inside" or "down inside" something?, so you must mean a washer style shim with an OD that fits into the 41 wheel recess and an ID that fits over the 38 spline. You must be trying to keep the wheel from rubbing on tube top? That seems to create a very thin walled "shim"????? Like an Oring? or a slice of a piece of tubing?

Sorry, but only those with a 38 or near 38 will know what is all looks like and what you are talking about. I'm a little handicapped so need detailed explanations.


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Sure, quick answers: I *think* the metal base stops the wheel.. but I am no where near the truck to tell. The old wheel hugs the tube. Yes, not sure how that matters for steering.. Shim for inside of steering hole I am thinking.. for purpose of steering & appearance.


'38 1.5ton; "The stuff is as tough as woodpecker lips"
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'Bolter
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The hub splines stayed the same for decades, but the way the horn button worked didn't. If you're showing the 1941 wheel in your picture above it won't work with your original horn button and your existing column won't except the newer style horn ground plate.

If that's you original wheel shown, it's not that bad. Take a Dremel tool and clean each crack out down to the steel, fill it with Bondo (it remains semi flexible after it sets up), sand it smooth, rattle can paint it with Gloss Black paint and drive on...done in a day. I did my 1935 Chevy Coupe that way in 1980 and still no cracks...

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
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1984 Jeep CJ7
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'Bolter
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I just finished my wheel as well with the JB weld and bondo method , I could have made it perfectly smooth with no noticeable bloops or scars if I had done a little more sanding.

EDIT: Mine looked worse than yours does, I had 17 cracks with 11 of the all the way through.
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20210319_152342.jpg (363.14 KB, 44 downloads)

Last edited by TerenceandMary; 03/23/2021 9:18 PM.

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Thanks guys. Wow that wheel looks incredible man!


'38 1.5ton; "The stuff is as tough as woodpecker lips"
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Use Marine-Tex instead of JB Weld or Bondo. The stuff lasts forever, even under water and it can be sanded and painted just like body filler. There's no point in paying somebody else outrageous sums of money to smear on filler and do a little sanding and painting.
Jerry


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Some of these shops are upwards of $1000 ...

Last edited by 38_1.5Ton; 03/25/2021 5:24 PM.

'38 1.5ton; "The stuff is as tough as woodpecker lips"

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