I've reassembled my door [on my '46 Chevy truck], and the window starts going slightly sideways just over halfway up. I've bent the rails/tracks on either side of the window up (that hold the felt 'track') and it helped some, but it's still wonky. It was like this when I bought it last spring and I just don't know how to fix it.
I need to create a gap between the window, and what would be the inside (guts) of the door because the window drags the metal just after the point where the window starts going sideways. I thought that slightly bending the metal rails/tracks up would fix it, but it didn't.
Everything is oiled and rolling well, I just need to know how to stop the window from touching the metal, and causing drag, and/or how to keep it from going sideways.
Since I can't put captions with the pictures... Imagine rolling your window up with no issues, and then about halfway up one side starts getting ahead of the other (the metal bar at the bottom isn't horizontal anymore), and when you're finished rolling it up the top of your window isn't flush with the felt track (against the top of your door)...the bottom isn't horizontal anymore, its at an angle.
The blue in the last picture represents the window position (slightly exaggerated) when its rolled up. You'll notice that the bottom isn't parallel anymore, and the top of the window isn't flush with the felt track. Also, my window regulator seems to be working fine. It's well oiled, and doesn't skip. I'm at a loss.
1946 Chevy Getting started on Bruno Follow the story in the DITY Gallery You can't buy happiness but you can buy a truck ... and that's pretty much the same thing.
My guess is one or both of the “buttons”, see attached photo with the red circles, is worn with a flat surface. These glide along the channel on the door/window regulator assembly.
Thank you, Sparky! That would make sense because one rolls really, really well, and the other one rolls, but it sounds like it has sand in it when I turn it. I purchased them from a gentleman who had rebuilt them and I'm not sure how to remove them because they're riveted on. I feel like I could smooth out the middle of the button/the little bar that it goes on, but I'm not sure how to take that portion apart.
1946 Chevy Getting started on Bruno Follow the story in the DITY Gallery You can't buy happiness but you can buy a truck ... and that's pretty much the same thing.
It might be that soaking the buttons in a 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid for a day or two will free the one up? A penetrating oil might work too. I prefer to use the 50/50 mix, as I’ve had better results in freeing stubborn fasteners with it. I didn’t have to remove the buttons on my restoration, but did have to remove the regulator assembly to replace the window crank springs. In doing that the buttons, still riveted to the “arms” were dressed with a file, cleaned and greased. At least one of the buttons needed a small, slightly flattened segment reshaped to a curve.
If all else fails, The Filling Station has replacement rollers and the rivets to install them. I did that on both of my window regulators ('51 AD). Not hard at all. Grind off the back side of the rivet where it's peened in place and punch them out. Then install the new rollers and rivets and peen them with a couple of healthy hits with a cold chisel, forming an X across the back. The new rollers are nylon, and probably more durable than the original phenolic(?) ones. If you'd like, I could dig them out of my parts pile and snap a photo for you.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
The Filling Station says they are used on 37-60 cars and trucks. Link
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
