My (1946 Chevy) barn find was a farm truck. Hubby and I have come across some missing pieces, jimmy rigs, and Redneck ingenuity while disassembling it. Par for the course, the doors are no exception.
One of the interior panels of the door had a hardened rubber piece, or a thick felt piece, in a place or two where the arrows are - not all four [whatever they were] were present.
I'm assuming it was just a piece or two that was on both doors to make the panel fit more snug so there wasn't a rattle? At any rate - what goes here? Or what have you used here? I was contemplating using the rubber garage door strip that I used further down the door but I decided to ask first.
Also... Both thin rubber strips at the top of both doors have hardened. I have replacements, but do you have any tips on removal without just chiseling it out in a hundred pieces?
1946 Chevy Getting started on Bruno Follow the story in the DITY Gallery You can't buy happiness but you can buy a truck ... and that's pretty much the same thing.
Can't help on the first part, but on the weatherstrip, soak it with oil (regular motor oil) for a few days. Then chisel it out in a hundred pieces. Actually the oil will soften it up a bit and you may be able to get it out in 2 or 3 pieces. Or maybe 20.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Haha Thanks, klhansen! Anything to make at least one 75yo part removal easier would be a Godsend.
1946 Chevy Getting started on Bruno Follow the story in the DITY Gallery You can't buy happiness but you can buy a truck ... and that's pretty much the same thing.
When I did these tasks on Sparky, ‘46 Chevy 1/2 ton, I don’t recall there was any evidence of there having been anything in the area shown in your first photo with the arrows.
The task with removing the rubber shown in your 3rd photo was a real patience test. It was bad enough removing the old, hardened rubber and remnants and that was the “easy part. Replacing the rubber with new proved even more of a “kind word match”. A tip on how overcame that is included below. Here’s what I did and found worked, others may have different tips and experiences.
Removal of old rubber: I used a screw driver, awl and sheet metal pliers with a blunt flat front. The pliers have about a 1/2” wide nose. Pliers were a Harbor Freight special. The channel was opened just enough with the awl, then screw driver to allow the pliers to grasp the sheet metal edge. I worked slowly and carefully to only open the channel only wide enough to scrape out the brittle rubber as I moved along the channel length. The channel was crimped closed after installing the new rubber. Easy does it with the tool use to avoid creating more work in replacing and crimping the new rubber. Should mention too that wearing gloves is recommended. That sheet metal edge is very sharp. Don’t ask how I know.
Installing new rubber: After learning the hard way, I bit the bullet and bought the high priced Steel Rubber kit. Believe me, it was worth the cost. It’s still a bit of a battle to install, but not nearly so as the first attempts. They recommend, and I agree, using a soapy water solution to help guide the rubber into the channel. Then when done crimp the sheet metal using the same pliers referenced above to secure the rubber and trim the ends as needed.
The weatherstrip on my AD was pretty rock hard as well. It was crimped in only one place to hold it in place (maybe both ends ). I did the oil soak thing and was able to pull most of it out with pliers, and then ran a screwdriver and awl along the channel to get the remnants out. I only uncrimped it where it had been crimped, not along the whole length. Don't go crazy with opening up the channel. When you go to put it back in, put a little silicone grease on it and PULL it into the channel. Pulling narrows the rubber a bit, while pushing just makes it bunch up.
Last edited by klhansen; 03/21/20211:12 AM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
@ 46Sparky and klhansen - Thank you!! I always take screenshots, and put them in my "restoration notes" album on my phone, for reference. I'm excited to try the soak and removal because I'm pretty sure I'd still be chipping away a year from now between my two jobs, my limited 'play time' this time of year, and sheer frustration. LoL
@ klhansen - Excellent tip on pulling vs pushing! It makes total sense to me, and you've probably just saved me a few busted knuckles and tears. =) I always do as much as I can when I steal away some time for 'Bruno', and I get frustrated when I spin my wheels trying to solve a 75yo problem.
I'm happily putting this info in my back pocket for future reference, and to be able to share with others who are also banging their heads against the wall. Thank you!
1946 Chevy Getting started on Bruno Follow the story in the DITY Gallery You can't buy happiness but you can buy a truck ... and that's pretty much the same thing.
). I did the oil soak thing and was able to pull most of it out with pliers, and then ran a screwdriver and awl along the channel to get the remnants out. I only uncrimped it where it had been crimped, not along the whole length. Don't go crazy with opening up the channel.