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#1401656 03/16/2021 11:06 PM
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 17
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 17
My engine is a 235. Old Carter single barrel carb floods very easily despite 2 rebuilds spilling gas on
manifold. Fire hazard.
Unable to find a carb in Phoenix, AZ area.
Afraid to drive it with this carb and am looking for a good rebuilt one. Can anyone give my a lead to
a reliable carb for this pickup?
Much appreciated..

sandollar43 #1401661 03/16/2021 11:25 PM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Contact Jon (carbking on here).

He's selling a whole lot of Carter carbs.
Here's his Ad


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
W
Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
W Offline
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
Have you checked your fuel pressure? There is no reason for a carb to flood if the needle & seat are good & clean & the float good & adjusted right.
These fuel pumps we get now often have excessive pressure. A 1 barrel like that should be about 4 lbs pressure.
George


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
In the Gallery Forum
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,475
J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,475
Don't know what year it is, but with a Carter YF it may not matter. Remove the top and check the rod holding the float first. There is a dimple stamped into that rod maybe 1/8 inch from the end. That dimple must be installed toward the closest wall of the float bowl. Sometimes the rod will be installed with the dimple facing out into the float bowl and then the rod can slide out disabling the float (which lets your carburetor overfill constantly). If you installed the float rod correctly, please check the float to see if it has a leak. Usually shaking it will let you know. Also, if you bought a "one size fits all" kit and you used the needle and seat, I can promise you the diameter of the fuel inlet will be wrong. Please tell us the year of your engine and the model of your carburetor. It might be YF2101s, YF967s, YF3211s...something like that. With that information, we can help better.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,475
J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,475
Visuals are helpful, so here are two for you. Second, the dimple as shown by the yellow pointer. First image you can see where I had to reduce the inlet diameter of a seat I found in one of the Carter YF models I found. If that inlet size is too large, here's what happens: the float drops to the point the fuel pump pushes gas in the carburetor but there's so much rushing in the lag in the float lets more in than there needs to be there and you get flooding. So it is important to have the right size inlet to reduce the flow to the right amount.
Attachments
MVC-638F.JPG (20.64 KB, 141 downloads)
MVC-041F.png (485.22 KB, 136 downloads)

Last edited by Jon G; 03/17/2021 3:56 PM.

~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 660
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 660
Great advice by the experts.
Also, not mentioned. My Carter did the same thing. Puked gas out.
I first checked pressure, it was like 3.5 psi.
Turned out it was GUNK from my gas tank ( even though I had an AC fuel pump with "filter" screen) And I cleaned out my gas tank prior.
I noticed tiny rust particals in my carburetor when I took it apart.
I ended up putting an In-Line fuel filter just below gas tank. Fixed my gas puking problem.
Carburetor purrs like a kitten now.
Just my carburetor problem & fix.
Carburetor: 966s on 1957 235 engine.
Todd


1950 Chevy 3100
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 17
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 17
I was wrong in my original post.
It is a ROCHESTER carb, not Carter.
A friend said Rochesters are prone to warping which may be my problem.
Thanks all for answering.

Jon G #1402248 03/20/2021 9:15 PM
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 17
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 17
Thanks all, As I mentioned, is is a Rochester. Will look for a Carter. Don't understand all the numerical
designations, YF, etc but am going to try to educate myself on that.

Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,763
C
Carburetion specialist
Carburetion specialist
C Offline
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,763
Sand dollar:

Rochester is a carburetor manufacturer. They produced carburetors as original equipment for Chevrolet beginning in 1950. The model or type of carburetor is a model B. If the carburetor had an automatic choke, it was then called a model BC. Many different variations were produced, and these are identified by a 7 digit number, originally stamped on a triangular tag, thus called "tag numbers". Many of the tags are now missing, and identification is very difficult to sometimes impossible.

Carter is also a carburetor manufacturer. Carter produced carburetors as original equipment for Chevrolet from 1923 through 1949. Beginning in 1950, Carter produced AFTERMARKET carburetors for use on Chevrolet engines. The model or type of these carburetors is a model YF. There are a number of variations, and these are identified by either a 3 or 4 digit number followed by the letter "S" as in (S)am. Carter knew the tags were going to be thrown away, so most (not all) of the Carter model YF carburetors have the identification number STAMPED (a recessed number produced with metal marking stamps) on the center section of the carburetor.

Here is a link to the various Carter YF carburetors produced for use on Chevrolet engines:

Carter YF's for Chevrolet

If this doesn't clear up the confusion, give me a call during normal telephone hours (9-12, 1-4 Mon-Tues central time) at 573-392-7378.

Jon.


Good carburetion is fuelish hot air
The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify.
If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes!
The Carburetor Shop
sandollar43 #1402259 03/20/2021 10:09 PM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,660
B
Curmudgeon
Curmudgeon
B Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,660
Here is a picture of a pair of Rochester B's weeping gas because of warpage but some of these carburetors still manage to run fair enough to keep the owners satisfied.
It's "pot luck" to get one to run good.
Strong raw gas spilling out is another matter all together and needs immediate attention.

I'm sure that this forum "rolls their eyes" with these pictures that I keep showing. Today's Ethanol gas, if left in our old truck tanks unused for months, will break down to water and gas. The tank will rust and everything downstream will have rust in it. A little speck of rust, that the gas filter missed, can cause havoc in your carburetor. I replaced everything from gas cap to carburetor. I only use non-Ethanol. I do not use additives. If I was going to use Ethanol gas, I would replace everything with Ethanol tolerant parts even if I had to convert to a modern engine. If I absolutely had to use Ethanol, I wouldn't let it sit in the tank long before I drained it out or used it up.

As far as carburetors...it's simple as ABC... Always Buy Carter. Big grin.
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IMG_3317.JPG (177.5 KB, 56 downloads)


"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."

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