The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Firestone RH-5

I disagree, the advice was given to look at the Tech Tip on big truck wheels.


And if that's not enough info the top thread in the Big Bolts section is called "Wheels and tires --- What to do?"
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=867617#Post867617

The short answer is yes, they did make "safe 20"" wheels with a 6 lug Budd bolt pattern, and you can search and find them.
The slightly longer answer is you could also very easily upgrade to 22.5" wheels with that same bolt pattern. They are easy to find and perhaps easier to find in good shape than some decent 20" wheels with lock rings.

Grigg

To add to what Grigg wrote above. If tubeless is an option and you can afford to go that way I am sure you would be happier in the long run. There are safe tube type wheels out there and good tube type tires as well but they are fast becoming a thing of the past.

The wheels on the yellow truck look like the ones on both my 454-30s. The rims are 6.5 X 20 Pacific Wheel single locking ring, 6 lug on 8" bolt circle Hub Pilot with Lugs nuts and compression washers.

I would like to see some close up pictures of the wheels we have been discussing.

If you clean up one of the wheels it will most likely have the manufacturers name stamped on it.

I run 9.00x20 tube type tires and have no problem cruising down the highway at 55. My 302 has a 2 barrel with governor on it. And no problem find tires and tubes. Bought another parts donor truck for $500.00 just for the wheels. Someday I will install a Spicier 5531 Aux Box.
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Good Luck

All Hail Klaatu and Gort

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-Of-6-GM...eels&hash=item27d4fb33cd&vxp=mtr

That's a steal right there... (no pun intended...lol)

At $50 per wheel and shipping, no tires, I disagree. Those 19.5" P30 wheels are quite common and nothing special. Around here they'd be $20 or less each, even free to scrap depending on the situation.

Old GMC GOLD,Try finding a "big truck" wrecking yard in your area. Another source,may be a commercial tire shop. MAYBE somebody knows somebody that may have the rims you're looking for. Sorry I didn't realise that you have the 6-bolt pattern rims. Mine's a '55 T.F.,and luckily,all 6 wheels are 2-piece with a ring. Not the same thing for my friend's '50 Chevy bus.Three of his rims were Firestone's,and one of the 2-piece,(with ring),had stress cracks around half the lug holes. 10-lug,opposed to 6. Chevy introduced the 6 lug wheels in'56,but I've seen them on older G.M.C.'s. Same guy has a '59 Viking bus,as well,and his wheels are 2-piece,(with a ring).Yes,they're 6-lug. The farmer I'm referring to,has 5,'50-'55 1st-series 2-tons,so,they're all the 10-lug style,too. Put an ad in the "Parts Wanted" section.It can't hurt. Grant,a.k.a."HevyHauler,has nice pic's/stories,on both his'56,and '64,in the "Gallery". also a nice reference,on how to re-build a hydrovac! I have 8:25X20:00's on my "Steers",but I switched to 9:00X20's for my "drivers".Same rim will fit 7:50-9;00's,but the 9;00's may be too tall for steering clearance,if used for that purpose. I'll do more reference,and if I find anything ,I'll send you a P.M.THANKS!!

Thanks Wetwillie. I did find a 1965 2ton with 6 lugs, sitting in the edge of the woods. BUT, the wheels looked like RH-5's. This LCF sits pretty tall and a while back I posted all the info. on the serial tag and most people said it was more like a 2 & 1/2 ton. It says 19,500 pounds. So I don't think I would have a problem with steering clearance.

I had already read the Tech. Tips and all the info. provided by Grigg above, but the info stops at 49 and mostly deals with 10 hole wheels. Cannot find anything dealing with the 6 hole piloted stud type.

Do you think if I found a 59 Viking Bus, the wheels would have the right dish and piloted studs?
Thanks to everyone for trying to help me.

Hey Old Jimmy Gold,

Maybe you have to go even further back in time for a wheel. I'm only half joking. Not sure about the stud hole spacing you looking for but the wheels on my G506 Chevy are six lug and designed to take the 7.50x20 tire. Same wheel on the G508 GMC Deuce and a half. I'm talking WW2 era trucks. You can see em if you go to my photobucket account and look at the "Big Truck Rims and Tires" album. I'm pretty sure the military kept that bolt pattern on some early 50's trucks (the M35, I think) that used the 9.00x20 tire. That wheel had a different lock ring setup than my wheel. Probably better. Mine, I'm pretty sure, are the Firestone RH, based on the "tech tip" article as seen on this site. Funny, it shows that wheel as being obselete in 49. It's a solid lockring that essentially stretches over the mating surface on the main part of the wheel. See the pics and you'll know what I mean.

BTW, I found that one of my 8 wheels was an RH5. One of the few holding air before I put on my new tires, wouldn't you know. It's deflated now. Can anybody describe the process for taking that specific wheel apart? I want to discard the tire and scrap the metal.

Thanks,

Tony

Someone will correct me if I'm wrong,(THANK GOD)!!But,if memory serves me correctly,here goes: Once tire is deflated,use a tirebar,and mallet,to remove(tire) bead from one side of rim. Remove the inner tube and boot,at this time.Once you can access the center of the rim,(I used a 4X4 block,between the tire and rim,flat on the ground),you'll see the square,(rivet in each corner),of the rim lock.Soak it good with "Liquid wrench",or similar penetrant. Smack the lock squarely with the mallet,to loosen rust.The end of the tirebar,(Hopefully still behind seat), fits into the end of the square.Align the bar with the square,and smack it until it comes apart. (Clockwise,if I remember right).Throw both halves in your "iron pile",for your next load to China.If I omitted anything,please add info. THANKS!!

To answer your question about the "bus wheels",I'd make a COMPLETE inspection of each and every rim,since both styles were commonly used,until the mid '60's,when the RH5's were finally dis-continued.My friend's father-in-law,is parting a '56 6400,(My "parts truck),but it's only got 4 rims left on it. Not sure if they're "Widow makers,or not.Mine are 10 lug,opposed to 6,so I didn't pay close attention. You could probably have them for the cost of shipping,if they're the SAFE ones.I'm NOT SELLING them,but I'll GIVE them to you,if they're the 2-piece lock-ring style.Let me know,and I'll get some pic's for ya!(I'll even take the tires off,to lessen YOUR COST)!Like posted before: Just make dubble dang sure that the rings don't get mixed-up! I'll "wire" them to the (hand hole) rim,when shipped.Hope this helps!

Thanks WW, I am going to do some diligent searching in my area. I will be in touch, and thanks for the generous offer.

Thanks Tony, the pic of your wheel looks like it would work with piloted studs, I have not tried taking mine apart. They are all still holding air and look like they have not been apart in years.

Willie,

You don't pry the bead of a 7.50 tire over the flange. You gotta split the rim. Then the tire and tube slides off (Ha!!) the rest of the wheel. The beads on tube type tires are like an inch or more thick! That be the design.

The raised band that is off center on the rim needs to be worked one way or another I suppose. I was just wondering. Not hurting anything sitting there deflated (I hope!).

Check out this pic of me beginning to press an old 7.50 off of one of my old rims. The flange is off on the other side, of course, which will allow the tire and tube to slide off unobstructed except for the crud and scale (rust) that develops over time. Tons of fun, but I learned a lot. I was eventually able to get six apart, clean em up, paint em, and get the new rubber on. I have one more correct wheel that I still have to work the tire off of. It's worse than the rest. Maybe the wheel's unusable. Plus I've got that RH1 that I've gotta render.

[IMG]http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b585/Milibolt/DSCN6950_zpsc980e662.jpg[/IMG]

Hi,Tony! That's the way I did mine,too. Mine were 8:25's,but same process. Those RH5's are way different! Thanks for chiming in! it's been a while,since I messed with those stinkin' things.The SAFE rims are much easier to work with,plus,you KNOW when the lock ring "Seats". Tire still NEEDS to be restrained/secured prior to inflation,(as we all know). Still huntin'for NEW 7:25X20:00 M&S tires,for Bob's 4400 Napco,so if you "hear" of any...THANKS!!

In the tech tip is a functioning link to the Accuride wheel catalog. It has some good charts and info as well as new replacement 22.5" 6 Lug Budd wheels (page 17, part number 28157)

For more info you need to search for it TRY THIS

As I mentioned earlier you can find good used 20" or 22.5" wheels with the 6 lug Budd stud centered bolt pattern.

Grigg

Old GMC Gold,

These are not 20 inch, but maybe they'll fit or help you. Came across these in my searches for 22.5s. I'm not sure if they'll fit your application, but it might be worth a shot if you don't mind paying to ship them.

http://nmi.craigslist.org/hvo/4127293247.html

It would still require changing the rubber out, but I remember you were looking for a set of 6 lug wheels.

Jonathon

Thanks JP. Yes. Those look like they would fit. They look like one piece rims. My problem is I just bought practically new 8.25x20 tires, tubes and liners. Was hoping to find some different 20" wheels that are not widow-makers.
Thanks Again.

Yeah, I know these are not the 20 inch like you need for your tires. I understand your situation. I'll keep you in mind as I look for a set. I'm certain I've come across some 3 piece 20 inch wheels. I don't think they had the 6 lug pattern though. If I come across any, I will send you a PM.

Jonathon

I know this conversation is dead but I wanted to add my two cents. I worked for Les Schwab Tires in Ellensburg, Washington for long enough to see a set of these come in on a small dump truck. The owner spent some time trying to bully me into working on them. Tried to make it my fault that he owned them. "All he wanted was a flat repair." I told him all I wanted to do is go home to my wife that night. It didn't seem to bother him that my death could be an option. He wasn't the only one to ask me to do unethical things while I worked there but it does stick in my mind as a highlight of my career to see them and to tell them, "nope, please leave!"

Thanks Brian -- Never hurts to bring a thread like this up. The RH-5's are still out there. I saw an active farm truck not too long ago running on RH-5s. Which was scary enough. But then I got to thinking ... those things have been outlawed for awhile now ... just about any decent tire shop is going to refuse to work on them ... so it must have been a very long time since the tires were mounted on them ... fossilized rubber on RH-5s that were on an over-loaded grain truck that probably has spent most of it's life parked in a barn on a dirt floor ...

Nobody likes being pulled over for a roadside inspection by the nice DOT man in the blacked out Suburban ... but this is why they do it.

John also brings up a good point, grain trucks. Here in Minnesota, farm vehicles including trucks, tractors, whatever, are exempt from traffic and highway laws. Any width, any weight, any speed (except freeways). No DOT inspections of any sort. You gotta do it yourself and if you are ignorant of the potential problems with your vehicles, no one is going to point them out.

Here's another news flash- - - - -Harbor Freight still sells the special-shaped tool needed to assemble/disassemble RH-5's! It's entirely possible some of those farmers have figured out how to change their own tires, too!
Jerry

Or they confuse it with a bottle opener ...

Just a quick refresher on the marking on these wheels.