The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop 1955 1st series 3600 - Can it be saved?

Can it be saved?

I have what I believe to be a '55 3600. This truck has been in my wife's family for quite sometime, but I'm unsure just exactly how long. It made it's way to us and we are going to try to get it back to use. After sitting since 2004 at the very least we were able to get it running last night. I use the term "running" loosely as we had to bypass the ignition switch and pour gas in the carb to keep it going. There is no key and the floats don't seem to be stopping the gas flow. There also no fuel tank, you get the picture. The cab of the truck seems to be almost completely solid. There's nothing rusted through that I've seen, although there's a piece of sheet metal in the drivers floor pan that might be a replacement for a rusted out original. The hood, fenders and doors are all good, I believe. There is one pretty big problem. Earlier in it's life the truck was converted to a camper. The entire rear of the cab and most of the roof were cut out for access to the camper.

Y'all will know better than anyone, is it worth saving? The truck was free so total investment is $0. I really hate to see the truck sit there unused and since we ripped the camper off, I need to get it drivable fairly soon. Any and all suggestions and advice are appreciated.

Just want to add that I have a thread in the DITY Gallery to post my updates.

There are parts available through all the usual vendors to replace the missing body parts. Cabs are a dime a dozen on the salvage market. That being said, you better have some serious welding skills and a strong work ethic. Getting it on the road soon is not an option at this point.
Welcome to the Stovebolt madness. There is no cure!

The fact that it is rust free is a bonus. Like Martin says, back of cab is available. Unless you are an excellent welder, it would be worth paying a well researched body shop to weld it back on, the rest one could do oneself. If you don’t have paperwork, that could have been a late ‘54 or ‘55.

Ed

Anything can be saved for a price. I agree with “justhorsenround”, that a doner cab is in order. The replacement panels would cost more and require allot of skill to install, than a doner cab. A truck that has sat more than 15 years the entire brake system will need to be replaced. You’ll still need, at a minimum, front end, front and rear end suspension, tires, and of course a seat, not to mention the entire fuel system. And that doesn’t include the engine clutch, transmission and rear end gears.

Unless this truck has sentimental value, financially it would be better to find a more complete truck. Restoring this truck will cost a boat load of money. Having said that, many on this forum have started with less!

If you do decide to go forward, I completely understand and we will be here to help you all the way!

Thanks for the replies men. I don't have any paperwork, only the VIN to go by. The truck does carry enough sentimental value for me to want to save the cab. The welding will definitely be out of my league, but everything else I can handle. The wife was sharing the video of it running with the family that grew up taking trips in it and some where really excited. They even had a picture of it from way back and it was a pretty sharp truck. I floated the idea of replacing the cab, but it didn't feel right. Around here at least, cabs where kind of rare. It could also be that I wasn't looking in the right places. The one I did find was pretty rusted up and there were several holes. There is a local guy who's done some work body work for me before who will probably end up doing the welding. I'm assuming that all the sheet metal is stamped at the same plant overseas and will be of comparable quality. There's a place in Georgia that supposed to be high quality stuff, but I can't remember the company name.

When I say on the drivable I mean just drivable. With the massive hole in the cab, leaving it out in the weather isn't an option, so I'll need to park it under the barn. I just need to be able to drive it in and out of the barn. The truck tries to pull itself when you put it into gear but feeding gas straight into the carb makes that a little tricky. Goals are to put some tires on tomorrow and get rid of the two piece wheels on the front. Then I'll have to figure out a way to get it to start without a bunch of jumper wires running everywhere.

I am sure you would find interest for that fairly rare factory chrome grill, they are pretty scarce.

Replacing the cab presents it’s own challenges. You have a 1955 first series. Those cabs are rare as hens teeth. You can replace with an older cab but it will be a 2 piece windshield. You can cut the back half off of a donor cab 1947.2 thru 1955.1 and weld it on yours. Again, not for the unskilled fabricator. Technically you can build an entirely new truck with available aftermarket parts. It certainly can be saved but it won’t be easy.

It's running, most of the parts are available repro, and you got it for free. Hell yes I'd save it!

I paid $600 for my panel truck that did not run at all, and I'm still saving it anyway.

Getting something to run that hasn't for years is really the easy part. As has been said, sheet metal repair is the challenge. But that's what it is, just a challenge. Since it does run and seems fairly complete to the back of the doors, it qualifies as a "PROJECT". It just takes time and a well stocked wallet.
As Phil said, we're here to help if you decide to go for it.

Also, it looks like it was originally a 5-window cab.

I'd much rather start with a seized-up engine and bad running gear than a butchered cab, but I've always preferred doing mechanical work to sheet metal. Getting the cab back into shape is going to be a long, expensive process, but as others have mentioned, a first-series 55 truck with its one piece windshield is a pretty scarce item. Try to find a donor cab with the corner windows instead of a single rear window version, and have a professional body shop do the repair- - - -it's going to be a time consuming job, and your checkbook will need some serious CPR when it comers time to pay the piper!
Jerry

It's a valuable parts truck. Not for restore. It's a front clip and doors sitting there. Those motors are a dime a dozen also. Take off all of front clip: fenders, hood, doors, grille, bumper valances, radiator, etc. and heater, column, dash stuff. Take them home and sell them. Maybe take motor and trans if you have a way to transport. It's toast, but parts can be "saved". Haul off the rest to the crusher. You do have about $1500+ in parts. The bad news is that all parts have to be sold local. Too big to ship. If you are in a low density area, that could take a while. There are quite a few folks who will travel to get good rust free sheet metal and chrome like you have. You can leave all the front clip together and take off as one piece if that is easier.
It may sound harsh, but I'm saving you from a Mission Impossible.
After buying another cab, seat, gas tank, bed, tailgate, possible rear end and suspension, possible frame, you haven't "saved a family truck" and will have spent more than buying a complete project.

That appears to be a factory built camp on the back from the pics. Here's a idea re do the camper ? If is is a factory camper it is a very very rare truck !! I have seen a few and they bring a stiff price. It would be interesting to know the history of the truck

Do you have any documentation regarding a 1954/55st Chevrolet truck "factory camper"?

Do you know the Chevrolet RPO number?

I have seen an earlier GMC "Huckster" - Rob English - 1951 GMC "Huckster". The back of the cab is not cut-up/cut-out. It is also shown here in the "Stovebolt Gallery".

I'll look in the 1955-2nd Silver Book to see if any non-GM "outfitters" offered something similar to the photos.

You can buy a 54 3600 complete not running with usual rust for $3000 or less. You are also going to need a complete bed.

Chevy produced the following partial trucks
Cab and chassis which would have been a full cab (3603)
Flat Face Cowl chassis which is a cowl with no windshield or doors. (3602)
Windshield Cowl chassis which is a cowl and windshield also without doors. (3612)

Take a look at the vehicle info kits. Example

Everything else would have been farmed out to a body builder. The same thing happens today with Class C motorhomes. Chevy sells the partial van and chassis, usually with doors nowadays, to Winnebago, or whoever, and they build the rest of the rig.

That looks to me like a cab that had the back cut off. If it was factory, why would they have used a 5-window cab quarter panel?

It also looks to me that it is a cab that has had the back cut off - after purchased.

Can it be saved? Anything can be saved, it just depends on how much time, effort and money one is willing to commit.

What I see is a start to something cool. A total blank slate that can be morphed into whatever you desire. At the very least, it's going to take one, maybe two donor vehicles (depending on the ultimate goal) and a strong desire, commitment and work space to get it done.

Or maybe, this is the donor vehicle for the project you have yet to find.

Whatever you decide, I'm glad you found us, because this is the best place to sort it all out.

John

I know what I would do.
I would find an antique Air Stream camper trailer and graft it behind that cut off cab. Those old Air Stream campers are just as iconic looking as our trucks are.
It would be a spendy project, but it would be a traffic stopper.

One could also build/fabricate his own back wall for the cab out of wood, metal, whatever; and put a flat bed on it. Or if the floor of the original camper body is still intact, use that. The OP didn't state whether he wanted to "restore" it or just get it drivable, since it was a family truck. Get creative--have fun with it!

Could someone give the owner an estimate of what the sheetmetal repair might run? Would a site member maybe be able to do it for them at a discounted rate? Again, they paid 0 for the truck. Even if it was $2k for sheetmetal, that's still a deal!

EDIT: it also looks like it used to have some type of graphic on the driver door. Maybe restore it for that business as a promo vehicle?

Please don't just part it out.

Great idea! The old airstreams are unfortunately really popular right now and as such are commanding a premium price, even if in a trashed condition. If the OP didn’t want to spend too much, he could just buy a older trailer, in decent shape, then graft it on.

Sorry for the delayed response, I'm still on my probation period so waiting for my posts to be approved slows me down a bit. I think I had one get lost somewhere too. No matter, I'll do my best to address everyone without quoting everyone.

I read most of the replies to my wife while we try to figure out what to do. This is intended to be her farm truck. Something for her to drive to the Co-Op to get feed in and the like. This was her favorite response.

So at this moment, we are going to continue forward. I'm still getting an understanding of what exact panels I'll need but if I'm looking at the right ones, I'm ballparking $2000 in sheet metal. I figure at least that for welding it in. So we're getting up there. It's been said several times that this project will only require a lot of money and determination. Well I don't have a lot of money, but you eat a elephant a bite at a time, and I'm really want to see this truck back to use.

I want a flatbed on it. I don't think the camper was built on an original flatbed, but I do know the truck was cut and the camper built by the owner. He has since passed but his daughter was telling us about helping him build the camper on it. He welded two pipe frames to the standards and used that as his frame. It was actually pretty neat. The floor to the flatbed it's built on is still very solid and usable so I might be able to modify it if we get the cab rebuilt. The way it is now the bed buts all the way up to cut cab.


I appreciate your honesty. I agree that if I end up replacing the whole truck, what would be the point? That's why I want to save the cab. There are still a lot of unknowns on this truck. This was a running truck when it was parked in a chicken house. My hopes are that most everything is still intact and I at least know radiator had coolant, the engine sounds good and the truck tries to pull itself when you let off the clutch. Everything else is still up in the air. At least I can't say you didn't warn me.

The Airstream camper idea would look absolutely awesome. Unfortunately it wouldn't fit the bill for my hopes for the truck, but that would be something to see.

This has crossed my mind as well. I don't even want to paint it, but if the cab gets repaired I won't have a choice. My goal is definitely drivable, I want to be able to use it. Making it pretty can come later.

We are pretty sure it said "John Doe and family", best the family can remember. This thing traveled all over, as far up as Maryland. Parting it out will be a last resort. I will part it out so that those parts my live on before I let them sit there and rot though.

If I didn't address you I apologize. I think I hit most of the questions asked. I will do better when I make it off probation.

Tornadoes might be rolling through so it's not looking good for getting tires on it today.

You have 5 posts now, so, you’re on your own. Be sure to look over all the forums to find the specific areas for future questions. Most of the repair questions will probably go in the Paint and Body Shop. Lots of experience there.

"Alabama" is a big place. If you happen to be within reasonable driving distance of my place at the Tennessee-Alabama state line and I-65, I'd be glad to get together with you and see what I can do to assist with the project. I've been tinkering with these old trucks since the late 1950's when they were daily drivers. The small envelope icon at the top right of every page is for private messages- - - -drop me a note when it's convenient.
Jerry

Nice.
PM on the way.

Check your inbox- - - -I sent you a PM a couple of hours ago.
Jerry

Ask Jerry (Hot Rod Lincoln) how many hours it is to our shop from your neck of the woods. If you can have it here by 7:00 am on the designated day you will be on your way back by 7:00 pm with a new (to you) cab. Almost certain there is a 54/55.1 cab down at the storage yard.

Please move this conversation to Private Messages. Thanks, the Stovebolt Staff

Make sure the frame is good. The frame area between the cab and bed tends to rust out here in the South.

If you can't weld, how good are you at woodworking? Maybe not elaborate as the picture but it's a possibility.

Now there's some "out of the box" thinking. Never wooda thought of that.

Welcome, Hay you should see some of the trucks we started with. An old guy years ago told me never start with junk. Of course he restored 1927 thru 1930 Rolls, Lincoln's, Pierce Arrow, etc. Landow's (spelling), too rich for my blood. So it has been a way of life that I restored vehicles that most of the people consider a lost cause. But, there is one thing that we (our kind) know. The things we restore have a large parts availability, one has to look a little bit more intensely. That's why fantastic sites like Stovebolt is around with equally fantastic members. Good luck, by the way you have a nice truck that will only get better. Stock restorations only grow more valuable as time passes. Doc. Phak1 is a voice of reason, but heck many of us are not that reasonable, we probably need more Phak1's around.

Maybe find a modern light camper to replace the one that was removed.

PM on the way.

Frame rust is a concern. My brother in law says there is hole after we got it here, but I won't know for sure without crawling around under it. I want to get the bed off so that I can asses the damage. Unfortunately building isn't my forte' whether it be metal or wood.


Thank you. Since I'm still assessing things, she Might be more than can be saved as Phak said. The wife isn't as concerned about saving the original cab as I had thought, so even if this frame and cab aren't worth saving, I'll at least have good body parts to start with.

With the way the camper was built on the bed you would end up hacking the camper all to pieces making it fit. Had I disassembled the camper instead of pushing it off with a tractor It would probably have been easier to build a new camper over it than try to restore the cab, but we really want a flatbed.

I just want to thank you all for the responses and suggestions. To be honest, I didn't realize how active this forum is. This project was one of opportunity as the junkyard was getting cleaned up and it was a good time to get it to the house. I still don't know the total condition of the truck so I don't know which way we're going. The weather here has been wet so we haven't made any progress, but maybe we'll have it moving under it's own power soon. I'll make sure to keep a better watch on this place in the mean time.

Got tires on it today. Funny how that can change the look. The frame is definitely rusted through where the driver side rear spring mount (forward) bolts to the frame. That's probably a big deal, right? Do they make frame reinforcements? As I continue to ask you guys questions, my wife's desire for a Stovebolt increases.

If it's the side (web) of the frame that's rusted through, it can be repaired. Many truck frames have a strong recommendation against welding or drilling on the flanges. But the older trucks weren't made of alloy steel with that issue. Doubler plates (you can fabricate your own) welded in can deal with smaller issues in the frame. I repaired a couple spots on my frame (rust through where the bed wood contacted the rear axle arch, and one of the rear bumper mounts.)
Post up a picture of the damaged spot.

Older Blue In my area we have companies that can make frame sections out of A36 frame steel any way it is needed to repair frame. Im sure you have them too, weld them in with 7018 low hydrogen welding rod you've got it ! The old lead body man said just concentrate on one problem at a time,once it's fixed move on !!

fixite7,

You can edit your posts when you make a typo, just click the "edit" box found in the lower right of the post you want to edit...make the changes and re-post.

As for patching a frame, I'm not a big fan of sandwiching metal along side of a bad spot. I like to cut it out and weld new in. I always worry about trapping moisture between the new and old causing it to fail again.

What's the rest of the frame like?

Mike B

Mike, I agree that cutting out the rusted spots and welding in new metal is best. I only mentioned doubler plates, because sometimes they're needed if there's a lot of metal gone in high stress spots. I welded in new metal and ground the welds so the patches will be pretty much invisible when the frame is blasted and painted (although the new metal will be a little smoother.
If OlderBlue would post some pics of the damaged area we could give more specific advice.

Good to know there are repair options if that's the only bad spot. Mike, I haven't had the weather or time to cut the flat bed off to examine the frame thoroughly yet. From what I can see, that one spot is the only problem. I might be able to get it off this weekend if it doesn't rain a whole lot between now and then. Here's some pics of the bad frame section.

Got a little more done today. I was able to get the old bed off and look the frame over. There are a couple more small holes that I hope can be repaired. There's a lot of extra stuff on the frame but I ran out of cutting wheels. I honestly thought I'd be able to drive it today, but no such luck. I bought a boat fuel tank to use as I thought it would be easy to hook up and I end up with enough junk around here that it will probably be useful in the future. While hooking up fuel lines I found that the lines wouldn't thread into the fuel pump. It seems that there was an electric pump on this truck in the past. A new pump from the parts house was like $65 and I was going to have to fix the lines. So I'm going to snag an electric pump off ebay for $20. I don't have a key, so I need a new ignition switch. Since I have the foot starter, I'm just going to just run a hot wire to a toggle switch for the coil and fuel pump. There is a rat nest of wires under the hood for who knows what so that will be a little bit of a pain to figure out, but I'll get it.

Pics of the frame.