The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Fixing the old truck

BUSY BOLTERS
Are you one?

Where is it?? The Shop Area

continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
5 members (VEW, GMCJammer51, 3 invisible), 571 guests, and 1 robot.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics126,777
Posts1,039,270
Members48,100
Most Online2,175
Jul 21st, 2025
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#1398307 02/21/2021 11:07 PM
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 96
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 96
I was checking the tie rod ends on my 1957 Chevy suburban NAPCO and needed to replace them. I ordered the left hand tie rod from and known and reliable parts provider. The left end thread size & No. Are 7/8" - 18 and the right is 7/8 " - 16. The left fit spot on. Anyone know who sells the odd right hand side.

Joined: May 2017
Posts: 100
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 100
You can find this hard to find part at Rare Parts . com .They have them in stock not cheap $172. But with this # you can find
Part # Rp-26616 left side
Part # RP- 25298 Right side
Good Luck Let me know how you make out , It may be better to give them a call or check here.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/rare-parts-tie-rod-end-rp25298/20511783-P
I believe this number should work at a lot of Flaps stores

Last edited by sack; 02/22/2021 2:29 PM. Reason: more info

!956 Gmc Napco 4x4 Factory line built .

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Wow! For that kind of money, I'd look at the Moog catalog to find one with compatible threads. Can't be that hard to find. I think you could even buy a complete tie rod and ends that would fit for that much money.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 100
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 100
This part is only Made by Rare parts. Not made by any other company. I looked for a few years for replacement. And once toyed making a new tie rod assembly . Time is money 172 gets cheap after awhile


!956 Gmc Napco 4x4 Factory line built .

sack #1398420 02/22/2021 8:50 PM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Originally Posted by sack
This part is only Made by Rare parts. Not made by any other company. I looked for a few years for replacement. And once toyed making a new tie rod assembly . Time is money 172 gets cheap after awhile
I can't argue with the time is money comment. I find it hard to believe that it's such a unique item, but it is possible. If this were a daily driver, I'd be looking for something more common as it is a wear part.
I just sent a message to Federal Mogul (Moog) asking if they had a tie rod end with 7/8 -16 RH male threads. Let them do the work.

That RP- 25298 PN you listed for the right hand says the threads are 7/8-18, so the OP may have mis-measured on the thread pitch. My query to Moog probably won't work. It's also listed on the RP site for $104. Also,the PN RP-26616 is listed as 7/8-16 RH and the $173 price. ohwell

Last edited by klhansen; 02/22/2021 9:18 PM.

Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262
The Rare Parts tie-rod-ends for earlier trucks is just as expensive, but, it is the best on the market.
Worth every penny of that cost.

"Time is money 172 gets cheap after awhile"
"Quality is money, every time"

I agree.
That is unless someone find/post-a-link to a better part/price?

sub57 #1398426 02/22/2021 10:02 PM
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 100
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 100
Also these tie rod ends turn the same way . You will need to take one side off to adjust .
That is why one side is 18 and the other 16 for ultra fine adjustment


!956 Gmc Napco 4x4 Factory line built .

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Moog gave me a link to tie rod end dimensions, so others may be able to use it. https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/universal_outer_tie_rod_ends.asp

Taking one end off for adjustment seems like a PITA. One end left and the other right threaded would make things a lot easier when setting toe-in. Or a sleeve with left and right threads for adjustment. Why saddle yourself with that kind of trouble? I know it's only necessary once or maybe twice, but hey. ohwell

Last edited by klhansen; 02/23/2021 2:26 AM.

Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
sub57 #1398467 02/23/2021 11:25 AM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,832
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,832
I would buy a 7/8-16 tap for in the 20 dollar range and run it in the 7/8-18 threaded one to change the threads. Option #2 is buy a die to change rod end threads. Can buy tap/die in either right or left hand thread. With at least an inch and a half threaded into the sleeve plus the sleeve clamp there is zero chance of it pulling apart. Never have to search for rare one in the future.


Evan
sack #1398476 02/23/2021 1:23 PM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,100
AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,100
Originally Posted by sack
Also these tie rod ends turn the same way . You will need to take one side off to adjust .
That is why one side is 18 and the other 16 for ultra fine adjustment
If the two ends are different size threads, once your in the ballpark lengthwise, you shouldn’t have to remove an end to adjust. With the threads being different, as you turn the rod it changes the length. One turn on the 18 pitch thread moves the rod 0.055” and on the 16 pitch moves it 0.0625”. If you subtract one from the other, each turn moves the rod. 0.0075”. You do have to be in the ballpark though as 18 revolutions on the rod only yields you 0.135”, just over 1/8”!

Last edited by Phak1; 02/23/2021 1:27 PM.

Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 100
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 100
Here is a picture of the tie rod assembly. Also found a better price for one of the tie rod ends.
Attachments
IMG_2663.jpg (48.96 KB, 60 downloads)


!956 Gmc Napco 4x4 Factory line built .

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
With that offset in the rod, you'd have to remove both ends to get it spot on, although it might be possible to turn the rod with one end loose, assuming the offset would allow that. I had a '72 Chevy K10 and an '84 GMC K2500 and they both had the tie rod (without offset) in front of the axle, along with an adjusting sleeve. There looks to be enough space on the left end of the rod to cut and rethread the rod and use a sleeve. It would need to be a left hand thread to form basically a turnbuckle. Then adjusting toe-in would entail loosening the clamps on the sleeve and turning it so the ends could stay installed in the steering arms.

Sack's pic is of a Classic Industries catalog page. I have the same catalog.

Last edited by klhansen; 02/23/2021 7:32 PM.

Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 96
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 96
Received the rare parts tie rod end today ( RP26616 ) for the 1957 1/2 ton suburban NAPCO. Installed it this afternoon and it fit like a glove. Thanks for the input guys.

Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,363
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,363
Brought some steering parts for my `60 last spring from NAPA, inside box bag labeled "Rare Part Stockton CA.
Good quality.


BC
1960 Chevy C10 driver 261 T5 4.10 dana 44 power loc
1949 GMC 250 project in waiting
1960 C60 pasture art
Retired GM dealer tech. 1980 - 2022

Moderated by  MNSmith, Rusty Rod 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0
(Release build 20240826)
Responsive Width:

PHP: 8.3.11 Page Time: 0.029s Queries: 15 (0.025s) Memory: 0.6664 MB (Peak: 0.7870 MB) Data Comp: Zlib Server Time: 2025-09-22 12:47:05 UTC
Valid HTML 5 and Valid CSS