I was checking the tie rod ends on my 1957 Chevy suburban NAPCO and needed to replace them. I ordered the left hand tie rod from and known and reliable parts provider. The left end thread size & No. Are 7/8" - 18 and the right is 7/8 " - 16. The left fit spot on. Anyone know who sells the odd right hand side.
You can find this hard to find part at Rare Parts . com .They have them in stock not cheap $172. But with this # you can find Part # Rp-26616 left side Part # RP- 25298 Right side Good Luck Let me know how you make out , It may be better to give them a call or check here. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/rare-parts-tie-rod-end-rp25298/20511783-P I believe this number should work at a lot of Flaps stores
Last edited by sack; 02/22/20212:29 PM. Reason: more info
Wow! For that kind of money, I'd look at the Moog catalog to find one with compatible threads. Can't be that hard to find. I think you could even buy a complete tie rod and ends that would fit for that much money.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
This part is only Made by Rare parts. Not made by any other company. I looked for a few years for replacement. And once toyed making a new tie rod assembly . Time is money 172 gets cheap after awhile
This part is only Made by Rare parts. Not made by any other company. I looked for a few years for replacement. And once toyed making a new tie rod assembly . Time is money 172 gets cheap after awhile
I can't argue with the time is money comment. I find it hard to believe that it's such a unique item, but it is possible. If this were a daily driver, I'd be looking for something more common as it is a wear part. I just sent a message to Federal Mogul (Moog) asking if they had a tie rod end with 7/8 -16 RH male threads. Let them do the work.
That RP- 25298 PN you listed for the right hand says the threads are 7/8-18, so the OP may have mis-measured on the thread pitch. My query to Moog probably won't work. It's also listed on the RP site for $104. Also,the PN RP-26616 is listed as 7/8-16 RH and the $173 price.
Last edited by klhansen; 02/22/20219:18 PM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Also these tie rod ends turn the same way . You will need to take one side off to adjust . That is why one side is 18 and the other 16 for ultra fine adjustment
Taking one end off for adjustment seems like a PITA. One end left and the other right threaded would make things a lot easier when setting toe-in. Or a sleeve with left and right threads for adjustment. Why saddle yourself with that kind of trouble? I know it's only necessary once or maybe twice, but hey.
Last edited by klhansen; 02/23/20212:26 AM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I would buy a 7/8-16 tap for in the 20 dollar range and run it in the 7/8-18 threaded one to change the threads. Option #2 is buy a die to change rod end threads. Can buy tap/die in either right or left hand thread. With at least an inch and a half threaded into the sleeve plus the sleeve clamp there is zero chance of it pulling apart. Never have to search for rare one in the future.
Also these tie rod ends turn the same way . You will need to take one side off to adjust . That is why one side is 18 and the other 16 for ultra fine adjustment
If the two ends are different size threads, once your in the ballpark lengthwise, you shouldn’t have to remove an end to adjust. With the threads being different, as you turn the rod it changes the length. One turn on the 18 pitch thread moves the rod 0.055” and on the 16 pitch moves it 0.0625”. If you subtract one from the other, each turn moves the rod. 0.0075”. You do have to be in the ballpark though as 18 revolutions on the rod only yields you 0.135”, just over 1/8”!
Last edited by Phak1; 02/23/20211:27 PM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
With that offset in the rod, you'd have to remove both ends to get it spot on, although it might be possible to turn the rod with one end loose, assuming the offset would allow that. I had a '72 Chevy K10 and an '84 GMC K2500 and they both had the tie rod (without offset) in front of the axle, along with an adjusting sleeve. There looks to be enough space on the left end of the rod to cut and rethread the rod and use a sleeve. It would need to be a left hand thread to form basically a turnbuckle. Then adjusting toe-in would entail loosening the clamps on the sleeve and turning it so the ends could stay installed in the steering arms.
Sack's pic is of a Classic Industries catalog page. I have the same catalog.
Last edited by klhansen; 02/23/20217:32 PM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Received the rare parts tie rod end today ( RP26616 ) for the 1957 1/2 ton suburban NAPCO. Installed it this afternoon and it fit like a glove. Thanks for the input guys.