I have a 3 spd on my steering column that goes down to a shift box mounted on the lower half of the steering column.
The box itself is worn around the axles that support the arms. This means it jams between 1st and 2nd and you have to get out and lift the lever to get it aligned.
Surely this is not an uncommon problem, but looking for some parts to rebuild the housing
Does anyone have any links to aftermarket mods
Here is a photo of my shift box with some rubber bands holding it tight together, shifts fine with these fittted but umm yeh 😂😂
I can picture the repair being remove arms, redrill the box holes oversize, insert a pair of clam shell bearings into the box or over the shift arm axles.
However, surely someone has already made parts for this mod.
In the mean time, learn to shift it the proper way for a worn out system. 1st up to neutral then push toward dash, then up to second and straight down to 3rd. Use the H pattern every time with no shortcuts. These systems were never meant for speed shifts. It won’t hang up nearly as often.
BTW, when starting a thread always tell us year, make and model of your truck.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
I believe Jim Carter sells a rebuilt shift box. Not sure the RHD one is the same, but maybe the levers are just on the opposite side of the box. Yep, Here
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Yeh, cost of freight to australia is a 100usd, he mentions exactly what my thought process was, a bushing is used in the body, not sure about how he presses a bushing into the body as the body seperates in half, maybe he means pressed onto the axle legs
Stripped it down and identified where all the wear is, need to machine the housing so the through shaft is straight and true, almost 6mm (1/4 inch) of side play exists on the end of each of the arms.
Just placed an order with chevy classic trucks for some rubber parts to refit on afterwards
I would add to check for play in the transmission shift-arm shaft bushings. Also note that the upper and lower box housing is made of "pot metal" and can wear out (fabricate bushings?).
It a nutshell, everything that moves and everything that makes contact needs to be checked for wear. The problem is there is no specification to determine how much wear is bad and there are no definite pointers on where the wear areas are.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
In my experience the aluminum housing wears the most as it is the softest metal in the assembly. Removing material from the split line, clamping the halves together and re boring will restore function to as new.
If a guy wanted a project, building up the bore with aluminum (TIG) and reboring could be done. But it would be a lot of work. I'm sure there are still decent shift boxes available out there.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
