I know this has been discussed before by I just can’t seem to understand what I need to do to accomplish this with out going to bear claw. What latches and striker years do I need to get this done. Help
These are for a 51. There are many on eBay, but I would look for NOS OEM to avoid any problems with the aftermarket parts as experienced by many on this forum.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Thanks for the help but it doesn’t work. The latches fit fine, it’s the strikers that are the problem. The 51 strikers are to thick and will not fit in the pocket on the puller. I going to try and modify the 54 strikers to see if I can get them to work. I have a picture from a guy that he had the strikers modified and they work . Worth a try . Thanks for the time and help it is appreciated.
I have a similar issue. I have a 52 and the strikers are the earlier models, but mine do fit the pillars. They just don’t match the latches (‘52 latches) so the door doesn’t latch properly.
I have bought NOS strikers to replace them, but its too darn cold to do anything in my garage.
Post your picture of the modified latch.
Last edited by Phak1; 02/13/20213:02 PM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Your sure the doors are from a 52 ? So far I have found the 47-51 have one type of strikers and latches and 52-55 1st series have another. I talked with bear claw and if you tell them the cab year and the door year they will match up the right set of latches and strikers. I’m just cheap and will buy as a last resort . Will post pics on next 2 weeks . Doing body work on doors. Will see if these modified strikers work.
Pretty easy to tell the year of the doors. '52 and later doors would have a gap at the window sill area for the wing window post and a hole on the outside forward of the latch for the pushbutton style handle. '51 doors would have the same gap for the wing window post, but no second outside handle hole.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Also for what it's worth and maybe not be appreciated, I've had trouble with 47-51 latches holding the door closed (the door can pop open). The attached picture shows a red arrow of the ratcheting mechanism (I apologize if the parts are not oriented correctly). If this is a bit worn, the door can move by itself. Maybe this is the reason for the change to the 1952 design.
Last edited by buoymaker; 02/15/202112:05 AM.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."