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#1394699 01/28/2021 6:08 AM
Joined: Mar 2019
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T
'Bolter
'Bolter
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We are working to finish the interior trim in a '49 3100. We are having difficulty finding replacement parts for the captive style nuts that hold the lower panel on the forward edge of each door. Some of them broke out when the truck was disassembled.

These are the panels that cover access hole and the bolts that attach the lower hinge to the door. The hardware is 1/4-20 screws. My searches lead me to pictures of the door interior panel but no close-ups of the nuts or details about them.

Are these regular "cage" nuts or are they some type of "rivnut" that expands to fill the hole?

Where can we buy them?

Many thanks for the ideas and help!


Rusty
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,004
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,004
Those nuts are pressed into the sheet metal. Similar to these. But the problem is being able to press them in place in the completed door. They can be replaced by weld nuts, similar tothese.. Or you could carefully tack in standard hex nuts. I used some of their low-profile narrow-base weld nuts to replace some of the captive nuts on my right inner fender where it's bolted to the floor.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
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Since their on the door covered by the access panel, why not use a rivet nut. There is a kit on Jeg’s really reasonable. I sure you would also find them on eBay and Amazon too. No access or welding needed and nobody is the wiser!
[LINK]

Last edited by Phak1; 01/28/2021 3:21 PM.

Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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'Bolter
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Hi Phil and Kevin,

Many thanks for the great inputs and ideas as well as prompt responses.

Your suggestions give us some alternatives to consider. We are probably past the stage where we can easily do any welding. The door has been finish painted.

I like the both cinch (press) nut and rivnut approach.

I will be with the owner and working on the truck tomorrow so we will decide how to proceed.


Rusty
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,004
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Posts: 11,004
Since it's already painted, I would go with rivnuts as Phil suggested. Those are also available from McMaster Carr. And you don't have to buy a ton of them. Link
I used some on my daughter's Jetta a few years back and the kit I installed included a flat piece of aluminum that was used to crush them in place using a bolt and washer that was greased up. So McMaster's $30 manual installation tool wasn't needed.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 119
T
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 119
Thanks Kevin.

I had forgotten that I used a large (12mm) riven to attach a steel under tray on a VW New Beetle convertible. You are correct that you do not need the special setting tool. They make it easier if you are doing a lot them but not cost effective to set only a few.


Rusty
Joined: Oct 2005
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They make a smaller tool.

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,004
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Posts: 11,004
Originally Posted by MNSmith
They make a smaller tool.
The tool that came with the Jetta skid plate install was just a flat piece of aluminum with the appropriate sized hole in it. I recall it had some serrations around the hole on the side that goes toward the rivnut flange to help keep the nut from turning until it grabbed the hole it was inserted in. Would be pretty easy to fab one of those. Cheap too! grin


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 119
T
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 119
Steve, the truck owner, found these fasteners in stock at our local NAPA. They worked great for this application.
Attachments
Captive_Nut.pdf (1.91 MB, 18 downloads)

Last edited by TBUChevy; 03/04/2021 4:52 PM.

Rusty
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,472
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Good to know and I glad it worked out for you!


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum

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