The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Remove the cab or not, 1950 Five Window

Do I remove the cab from the frame or not is my question? My plan was a frame on restoration, but heck the bed and fenders are already removed. All that's left know is the cab. How heavy is the cab. Doors need to come off, I know. The glass is removed, seat and frame out, and all the gauges as well. I am torn because I am afraid I will never it the alignment right again. I know it can be done because I see it all the time. But I just need to ask the question. Thank you.

I finished a 37 last January and did a frame off and everything went back together pretty good. Glad I did it that way. You might be surprised what you find under there. Rolled cab around on a little cart I made.

If the cab mounts are in good shape, you shouldn't have any problems with realignment. With the cab off, you won't be impaling your shins on the running board brackets.

The cab is easily picked off by 4 guys, or using an engine hoist with a plank on the boom extending thru the door openings.

My cab had to come off because I needed to rebuild the floor. After taking it off the rotisserie, I put it on a pallet with casters bolted on it. I need to add some blocks to raise it up a bit, though, so I don't have to lay on the ground to paint the bottom edges.

I like the idea of the engine hoist and a plank. But can you elaborate please. Unbolt the cab, slide a 2x12 under the cab and then create a sling between both door openings? Jack up the hoist and roll the cab away from the frame? Seems like this might put the weight of the cab in a small area.

“I figured...since I’d come this far, I may as well turn around and keep on going.”

-Forrest Gump (1994)- whilst running across America.

I vote pull it. Then you can address potential problems like worn foot starter linkage, toe board holes, rebuild/refresh the steering box, etc.
You’re already in the deep end of the pool, keep swimming. 😎

I like it.
Here's a pic of how I pulled my cab off. Worked like a charm.

Kevin's method works and is easy. 4 guys and a couple of beers works as well. Put it on a castered dolly as suggested. I agree, at this point, there is no point not to.

If you are replacing any structure of the door opening surround (think picture frame) like the floor, etc, I would leave the doors intact/attached to insure the best fit on your door gaps prior to final welding.

As stated the engine hoist and beam works very well. If you are placing your cab on a mobile cart make sure the castor height and width will allow for the hoist front legs to clear and slide under the cart.

The other two guys might not be friends anymore if you don't get 4 beers.
Where were you when I built my cart? No way the hoist legs fit underneath it.

You guys posting pics of your big shops are getting me down. I'm working in a single car garage that my F250 won't even fit all the way into. I may have to buy a new house.

Awesome. Thank you for the great picture. I tossed and turned all night trying to visualize how to do this. I even have the same cherry picker. Now I just need to figure out how to pull the steering mast!

Just think about the heating bill for a big shop

Sorry to cause you lost sleep.
Pulling the steering column needs the wheel pulled, then the pitman arm (get a BIG puller, and probably a bit of heat), then unbolt the gear from the frame and it comes out from the front.
That is a downside. But I could probably stand it. I'm storing parts in a cargo trailer outside (I call it my storage shed on wheels).

Thanks for all the advice. I'll give it a try. More than I wanted to bite off. When I started this project I was just going to have it painted. Now the more I take it apart, the deeper I go, and the more I take apart. I really do need more space for all the parts however. Hopefully by summer it will all be back together. Thank you again for the advice.

Isn’t truck building fun? It’s funny how the rabbit hole can get very deep very quickly! But when you’re done, you won’t regret your decision one bit to take it off and do it all.

I have the entire truck with exception of the frame and cab in a 10 x 24 building , this is also where my 6 tools chest, work bench, air compressor, blast cabinet, hydraulic press, welders, band saw, table saw, compound miter saw and flammable cabinet are... so I feel your pain.

I left mine on. The only area that the blaster couldn't get to completely was the top of the frame rails. Good enough for me when considering the alternative effort involved.

This weekend I moved from a frame on restoration to a frame off restoration. Great suggestion to use the hoist! I fabricated a boom out of a couple of 2 x 4 's. I only wished I had paid more attention to the dolly I build to set the cab down on. The picture shown is the thread is very good, and I should have paid more attention. I spent less time removing the cab then time making and modifying the dolly!

Jeez man! Clean up your shop! Looking good, Darren!

ChevyDarren appreciate the posts & pics. I too (I think) am headed for removing the cab from my 1965 C10. I am also pretty anxious about it. If you don't mind a few questions:

1. Did you have to pull the whole steering wheel?

2. I see you have some type of supporting structure in the cab. Can you post a pic of it?

3. Can you also post a pic of your cart?

Thanks & good luck

Kevin,
You can leave the steering column alone. Disconnect at the rag joint and be careful not to damage the shaft. It will be in the way.
As far as cart, I started with a shipping pallet and built up from there. Used the cab bolt holes and cab bolts to secure to dolly. Once you put the cab on the dolly you can easily jack up a corner or the back or front to adjust.
Pictured are 2 different versions.

Ok thanks. So you removed cab in pic with doors on? I'm resigned to removing doors for painting, better access to cab for work, etc., but I sure am worried about getting them lined back up right. But like somebody said before, the guys on here will be there to help.

did it both ways, but yes doors off will be more comfortable for working in cab.
Leave hinges on the door side. Drill small holes (guide holes) through the hinges into cab prior to removing. 1/16 bit or so. Then when reinstalling doors put the drill bit into hinge and through to cab as a guide. door should line up where it was previous to removal. There may be shims under the bolts (6 bolts) that help align the door in/out. Make note of where shims are prior to removing door. The shims will fall out when bolts are loosened.

Got it. I appreciate the info. I didn't know about the shims. I followed Lugnutz guidance on the guide holes for the hood. As I have said before I can't imagine taking on this project without Stovebolt resources.

One more question if you don't mind: In one of your pics you had the cab lying on its back. Did you do this with a lift from above, engine hoist, or warm bodies?

Here are a couple of pictures of a dolly I made. Vertical tubes are attached to the frame mount positions. With this design you can easily and single handed roll the cab to 45 deg angle or on its back without any part of it touching the ground. Vertical bars behind cab are removable for painting, welding etc. Just remember to put them back before pushing it over to its back. I was once very close doing this without the back bars.

I did pull the steering column. It was simpler than I expected. It took more time to get the shifter apart than it did to remove the steering column. It is also very simple with the front clip removed. There are no additional supports added to the cab. I decided to go with the two 2x4 because it helped spread the weight of the cab out over a larger area. And put less pressure on the door jam. The cab was fairly well balanced, and the strap was only a precaution. After I get it painted, I don't intend to use the strap, but I will place a block on the 2x4's to prevent the cab from sliding. I may also add some weights on the side closest to the hoist to add balance if needed.

I like that dolly FinnBolt!

Kevin, I rolled cab by hand. Might have had a buddy help I dont recall.

Ok thanks Hambone. As of now I'm going to move forward with removing cab and as a first-timer I want all the info I can get.