I'm adding turn signals to the '37 and bought the kit. First I threaded all the wires down a long piece of black heat shrink tubing to take care of some of the ugly but I can't get over how cheesy using a hose clamp looks. It seems they took the functional but easy way out. What have others done that agree with my evaluation? Also, has anyone painted the pressed tin chrome housing? It reeks of cheap like a Hong Kong bell on a nice Schwinn bicycle in the 50's/60's.
Larry Old man᠁Old truck᠁neither one goes very fast. All you need in life is TIME, PATIENCE and MONEY. If you are missing one component, you'll need an abundance of the others two.
Did you get it from Amazon or ebay or who? The vintage turn signal switches had clamps, but better looking than a modern radiator hose clamp you probably have.
Options: 1. Send it back, if Amazon or friendly vendor, and buy a used original. Don't buy chrome unless you want chrome. Painting it is a PITA. 2. Cover the clamp with heat shrink tubing. Shrink it or leave it unshrunk, whatever looks best. 3. There are some nice looking exhaust clamps and industrial pipe clamps/hangers if you can get them to fit the switch body. 4. There are all manner of wide non metal cable straps with low profile heads. Not sure those with be tight enough. 5. There are some specialty radiator hose clamps/vintage radiator hose clamps/racing hose clamps that may suit you. 6. Old piston rod end or just the cap. 7. All kinds of steering column clamps/collars for mounting a steering column.
Many of the above may need "modified" a little. The switch body may need modified a little. Send good clear pic of it, if you get into that mode, for suggestions.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Thanks for some ideas, I'm sure I will figure something out that will be acceptable. Just hoping someone had dealt with previously brainstormed this successfully. I'm even considering drilling and threading for a very short screw as long as it doesn't interfere with the horn S wire.
Larry Old man᠁Old truck᠁neither one goes very fast. All you need in life is TIME, PATIENCE and MONEY. If you are missing one component, you'll need an abundance of the others two.
I’m afraid I can’t offer any suggestions, but I’m interested in what kit you’re using. I have a ‘38 and have been looking for a 6 volt turn signal kit that looks somewhat period correct. Apologies if I’ve missed other posts you may have on this topic.
Here's what a period turn signal switch clamp looked like. Not your standard hose clamp, but not very sleek, either.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Hoff, they are everywhere, Ebay to almost all of the Vintage supply houses and all prices. Filling station is under $20 for what I bought as I just need a switch my new wiring harness had the wires and I can survive without "self canceling". You can spend up to $300 with wiring harness but I wouldn't. plan and buy wire by the foot off the spool. Even expensive setups use a hose clamp I was complaining about. Kevin, That vintage aftermarket one is what I remember but the clamp probably wasn't as universal in size as a hose clamp. Lol Back in the day, I remember my dads almost new AD had the upgrade one like yours but was self-canceling with a rubber wheel that ran on the back of the steering wheel.
Larry Old man᠁Old truck᠁neither one goes very fast. All you need in life is TIME, PATIENCE and MONEY. If you are missing one component, you'll need an abundance of the others two.
The switch I have in my truck, uses a hose clamp, but the screw to tighten it, is part of the housing and the slots on the clamp don’t go all the way around, so there not as noticeable. Here is a eBay [LINK] for a similar unit. You can see the phillips screw to tighten on the side of the unit near the clamp strap.
Last edited by Phak1; 01/19/202112:34 PM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Kevin, That vintage aftermarket one is what I remember but the clamp probably wasn't as universal in size as a hose clamp. Lol Back in the day, I remember my dads almost new AD had the upgrade one like yours but was self-canceling with a rubber wheel that ran on the back of the steering wheel.
I haven't looked at mine in quite a while, but I recall that it has the rubber wheel, although it's pretty dried up and I doubt the steering wheel would turn it.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Here's another option if you like to keep the completely stock look ( I did it because it's cheaper and I already had most of the parts). I used 2 DPDT toggle switches mounted under the dashboard on the left side. Also required is 2 diodes and a blinker. Diodes can be wired on the back of the switches and the blinker is clamped to the under dash brace out of sight. Same wiring and lights you would use for any other turn signal installation but all hidden. Not self canceling. You can get 4-way blinkers by turning both switches on.
37 GC Your right rhere are a lot of them out there, mine are mostly Guide,found a 7 wire at my local go-in and find your own junk yard. well got it mounted and wired didn't work very well,so gave it a soaking with tuner cleaner ,good stuff works fine now.
