Ok. I'm aware of the 1/4 npt drain fitting on the drivers side towards the rear and bottom of the block. However, there is another hole, just above and to the left of the oil inlet from the filter. I began to flush my radiator before filling and water came pouring out of the smaller hole. It appears to be 1/8th npt? What's the purpose for this hole? Should I just plug it? [img]http://www.jimcartertruckparts.com/Articles/261-Engine.php[/img]
Btw...it's below the captains bars, just to the left of the bell crank a few inches about the same level. You can see where it is on the link I posted. 2nd picture from the bottom, it appears to be plugged by a bolt.
That's an alternate location for the bellcrank. It's got a straight bolt thread, not a tapered pipe thread. Just screw a bolt into it with a little bit of non-hardening sealer on the threads. Some engines had an exhaust manifold shape that required the bell crank to be positioned differently, I believe. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
If you take the bellcrank stud out, I believe its hole will also strike water! Use one, and plug the other. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
My ‘52 235 from a car, came with a stovebolt threaded into it, so when I moved the bell crank pivot to the forward hole, I moved the stovebolt to the rear pivot hole. I also used non-harding sealer on the pivot that goes into the water jacket.
Last edited by Phak1; 01/05/20212:10 AM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Thanks again guys! Last week, I mocked up my linkage using my original 235 block, and swapped that bellcrank several times! The linkage is done, but until now, I didn't realize that I had to seal that hole! It tightened pretty good, but I'm thinking it will also need some thread sealer. That linkage was a PITA! Who knows, I might have used that forward hole if I knew it was an option!
Hey thanks Phak1! My 62 235 doesn't have an optional forward hole. And the pivot nub sticks out from the block close to an inch, if not. That same nub in the 261 also sticks out about that far. Btw, the 261 is a 59. The forward hole, that clearly goes into the water jacket, has a nub that only sticks out from the block about 1/4". Also, the rear is a smaller, 3/16 thread. I think. I don't think it enters the water jacket, simply because the bolt isn't as long as the nub. But, I did apply permatex thread sealer, just to be safe😉 I have to admit. I'm skeptical about the purpose of this forward hole...
There is a gentleman on this forum Pre '68 Dave, that has a web site that explains the forward position.[LINK]
The existing bell crank and linkage that came with my truck, was from a car, it did not work well and I was afraid it might stuck. I bought original 216 linkage and bell crank from a fellow “bolter” which necessitated the move to the forward position. The throttle is as smooth as silk now.
Your right in the fact that the rear hole has a taller boss that does not penetrate the water jacket, so no sealant is necessary.
Last edited by Phak1; 01/05/20214:06 PM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Believe it or not, that threaded port gets a machine screw and a fiber or hard rubber washer, at least on the 55-62 motors I have taken apart or rebuilt over the years.