My clutch disk thickness is between 0.330-0.333 or (8.38-8.45mm) You can still see some numbers WFI 101059? Wonder if it is even the right disk. Somewhere I saw that a clutch disk for a 235 engine has a light blue line painted for identification... This one has light blue paint on one side of it, and now I wonder if someone thought it would be an upgrade...
Your measurements are in the 3.47 to 3.63mm, that is quite a difference... In which case, I probably should just leave it alone and only replace the throw out bearing just to be safe...
There's a difference between clutch FACING thickness and disk thickness. So Mike's number would be doubled (facing on each side) plus the thickness of the metal disk backing.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
If the rivets are shiny from rubbing on the flywheel or pressure plate, then the disk is definitely worn out. If there isn't much depth to the rivet heads left, I would replace the disk.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Judging by the printing still visible on the disk face, its almost new!
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum