The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Repro Cab Corner PIA

Hi Guys,
I am trying to get the driver side cab corner installed and the front of the corner that creates the door gap isn't straight (see picture). I can't just angle the corner to make the gap uniform because everywhere else would would then be off and no longer line up. Im thinking I need to buy another cab corner but then again I don't know diddly about metal work or restoration and thought it would be best to get some advice before buying a new part. The passengers side went on nice and smooth but I could tell from the start that the drivers side was not of the same quality. The bend common to the pillar was off, it didn't fit well to the inner corner, and the joggle dimensions where it mates to the pillar to create the door gap are also off. I could over come most of these but this one has me stuck. Thanks for any assistance!

It looks like you've already trimmed the patch to fit, but with the door line offset. So you'll probably need another patch panel. But if you haven't trimmed the original metal and can lower the rear part of the cab corner, you might be able to readjust it.
What you need to do is line up the door opening, and if any thing needs to be realigned from there, such as the very bottom of the patch where it connects to the inner cab corner, make the adjustments there. There's a video out there of a guy torch shrinking a cab corner that had a 1/2 inch or so gap at the center bottom of the inner cab corner, which I think could be attributed to him not lining it up correctly.

on edit: The other option is to weld some additional metal on the door gap side of the patch panel to close that up. Might be more work that what I originally posted.

Kevin,
Unfortunately, the replacement panels extends all the way to the lower back part of the cab where it ties into the arch that spans the frame, if that makes any sense. So I wouldn't be able to angle it down without that part being way off. If I do get another panel and it is off just as bad I might just do what you are suggesting but splice the two parts together so the back will fit as well. If I was to do it again I would not have cut so much out but this was the first thing I did when I got the truck and would like to think I have learned a lot since then.
Haven't considered adding more metal but will definitely give it some thought.
Thanks!

If you still have the vertical part of the reveal intact, you could still match that up (not extend the patch to the horizontal part of the reveal. The saving grace on the rear of the cab is I believe the bed will mask that part. You could also reform that arch a bit if needed. It wouldn't be that hard to do with some flat stock to hammer against.

You could section that piece and add a metal wedge.

Patch panels are generally made in China or other off shore place. Made from a die. The die is designed to fit a perfect truck. Generally the patch panels are all the same as the next batch except for die wear and handling. The USA made panels are not made with the kind of machines the Chinese have. They lean toward hand made. Probably from bucks and jigs. They are also made to a nominal original truck. Patch panels don't always fit perfectly due to things that happened to the truck over the years. Factory truck tolerances, patch panel tolerances, past "professional" collision repairs gone bad. Owner fixes, Frame and body sag/fatigue, other bad patch panels used. It's the nature of the beast. The patch panels from China do also get out of shape during the voyage, dock to vendors and shipping to you. It's one of them things. Patch panels give you an 80% head start vs fab.

To mitigate:
1. Don't cut anything til you get the panel and lay it on. Spend time thinking about it's fit.
2. Don't use any more of the patch than the truck needs.
3. Panels can be cut, modified, rebent, etc..tweaked.
4. Ask here before you start. You are experiencing what we all have experienced. So take two asprin and post in the morning.


The ideas from Kevin and the pie cut from Mark are examples of what may be needed for any patch, and are good advice. The first thing I thought is what kevin said. The gap has to be the number one thing to set up, then see what else is needed before cutting truck or patch. Cardboard can be used to test your ideas. I have used welding rod to reimagine a door edge, to close the gap. Probably not an idea for this however.

I don't know how much lip/flange length is on the patch where it meets the door, but some folks here could straighten that flange out and rebend it to the angle/distance needed. That is the opposite of letting that edge of the panel dictate. But it is a thought.

That double bend at the door edge would be the hardest part to reposition, as the metal is pretty much locked in place with the two bends. I did have to "shorten" that on the lowest part on mine to make it lay against the door pillar correctly, but to move the actual outer door edge would be just about impossible. That's why I said to get the door gap correct first and massage the rest of the patch. Mark's pie cut idea is also good and easy enough to do. It may be possible to salvage that patch panel you have. Even welding in a sliver of metal to fill gaps that might be created is possible.

Looks like you need to split the patch panel just before the jam line, spread it a little bit and add a patch to the patch panel to fill the spit.

did you try contacting the supplier?

You'd probably need to speak Chinese to get anywhere with that. The vendor might send a replacement, but there are enough variables that it would be unlikely.

Everyone who has used the available products understand that they need to be massaged to fit any individual truck.

I hate trucks. I really do.
'Hope that helps...

So Carl, Are you skulking around in the wee hours? Isn't it past your bedtime?
Not me, it's just 9PM here. (preemptive defense to your comeback )

Now THAT.......is funny.

If only you told me before I ventured down this path! LOL

So decided to install the panel in two pieces, one piece to ensure the door gap is straight and the second piece for the remaining area. Decided just to by a second panel so I didn't have to wedge a third piece in there. Well here is a picture of the second lower cab panel compared to the right side.The freaking panel is about 1/2 inch shorter were it goes over the frame, POS! No wonder why you can't line up the door gap and locate the arch correctly. The right side fit perfect but this left is terrible. I can see panels being somewhat off but when you make a near perfect right side and the left is all jacked up, really. Oh well just another challenge. Thanks for all the help guys, as usual this forum rocks!

HMM, Are those from the same source? Odd that one would be that far off.

Glad you got it figured out but it sucks that you had to buy two patch panels just to get one side done.

Welcome to the repro world. I had to buy two to do my cab corner on my 70. The 2nd patch was worse, too! So I used the first and I had to accordion notch it to fit the curvature of the door.

On my ‘51 1 ton, I had to use the section/pie cut addition Mark mentioned. My door line was way off too. You’re going to get very well acquainted with your welder and grinders... 😎 Good luck. We are here to help!

I really hate people saying "It is what it is" and things like that. It just does not help in any way. This man needs help, not clichés!

Anyway, back to this patch panel situation. You gotta do what you gotta do.

"It is what it is"

"You gotta do what you gotta do."

I am reading this thread in preparation for a similar job. Who makes, or should I say, sells these poorly made panels? and who makes/sells the best stuff?

I got my cab corners from Jim Carter and had good luck with them. Only minor tweaking needed.

I dont recall where I got the first one that didn't fit well but the second one that is in the picture that is to short was purchased at Jim Carters. That being said I have bought several items from Jim Carters and they have worked well with no complaints. Like Bartamos said they probably all come from one or two foreign sources so it could be a crap shoot. Knowing this now I think I would measure the length of the bottom of the panel to the top of the arch and ask any supplier if they can check the length before buying it.

Also when you make the first cut.......don't cut on the line. Leave yourself with extra metal on the opening. Then test fit and slowly take more steel away working your ways towards the final fit.

Now, that was funny!!

"It is what it is"
"You gotta do what you gotta do"

Now, that is funny?