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#1389554 12/23/2020 3:32 PM
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,644
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jun 2008
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I need some advice.....

I want to install a new wiring harness on my 1950 1/2 ton with a 216 and ran across this harness and wondered if it would be a good choice? If anyone has installed this harness please comment. Thanks!


Rebel Wire 9 + 3 Wiring Harness

This harness has 12 Fuses and 14 Circuits. Its perfect for your Hot Rod, Street Rod, Custom or Muscle Cars and Trucks that require fewer circuits.

Assembled in the USA from American made components, the heavy duty SXL wire is labeled every 6" and bundled for easy installation.

This kit has 11 circuits for lights, gauges, radio, radio constant-cell phone charger, wiper, ac-heat, motor, and third brake light, plus 3 open circuits for whatever you might want to add such as power windows and doors, etc. KIT COMES WITH HEADLIGHT CONNECTORS, 4 1/4 TURN SIGNAL CONNECTOR AND FLOOR DIMMER CONNECTOR.

Kit comes with easy to use instructions for Chevy, Ford or Mopar installations, dash light wire, neutral safety switch wire, fusible link, 1 1/4" rubber grommet for the firewall, 3 fuse block terminals and fuse block label
Attachments


Chuck
1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original)
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod)
1941 Chevy coupe
1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 154
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 154
I'd say it depends on what you have in your truck, and where you want to go with it. If your truck isn't stock, and requires a bunch of extra circuits, this might be the right choice. I couldn't say for sure. If your truck is completely stock, and you just want to replace the existing wiring with newer vinyl coated wires, using the original fuse box, then I'd recommend a simpler harness, which will also be much cheaper. I used this one Classic Parts wiring harness on my 49 and I'm very happy with the results. They have the equivalent for other years.

Last edited by Greg Brown; 12/23/2020 3:46 PM.

Greg Brown
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,441
Moderator - The Electrical Bay
Moderator - The Electrical Bay
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Posts: 3,441
Like Greg (and others to follow) said, it all depends on where you are going with this truck. It is a lot easier to roll up the end of a wire and zip tie it out of sight than it is to run an extra wire to some accessory that you might want to add down the line.


Another quality post.
Real Trucks Rattle
HELP! The Paranoids are after me!
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B
Sir Searchalot
Sir Searchalot
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Thiswould be better. The "universal" type wiring harnesses are basically all the same quality wire and use a prewired fuse box. They are just fine for you. This one is cheaper and has more extras. Free ship.

A 12 circuit harness for a stock, or near stock, 1950 truck will have extra circuits/wires.
The circuits on this harness are:
1. Wipers
2. Fan

3 AC/heat
4. Gauges
5. Turn signal
6. Choke
7. Coil
8. Radio
9. Horn
10. Headlights
11. Brake
12. Hazard

So Red circuits could be potential extras. There will be some ammeter, generator/alternator, subtle changes ....to be made for an older truck. No big deal. I suppose you are talking 12V conversion?


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
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S
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Greg, thanks for the link to the $150 Classic Parts harness. It’s nearly half the price of the Rebel brand.

Rusty, thanks for reminding me to keep it simple. Good advice!

Bartamos, your last question set off a lightbulb in my head. I’ve got an original 6 volt system, so that 12 volt harness won’t work for me. Rebel Wire makes a 6 volt harness for $70 more at $295. The $150 Classic Parts harness looks to be a better choice for me.

Thanks


Chuck
1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original)
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod)
1941 Chevy coupe
1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 154
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
G Offline
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 154
I will warn you that the instructions for that $150 harness aren't great - unless they've improved them over the last couple years. The wires are all numbered on both ends, but for some reason they didn't include all the wire numbers in the instructions, so you have to decipher a couple things. It's not too hard to figure out, but can be a little confusing and frustrating.


Greg Brown
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D
'Bolter
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Chuck, I'm joining this conversation a bit late, but you may want to check out American Autowire. I like the fact that wiring can be run from point of load back to the main harness or the fuse block, instead of the other way around, which keeps the rats nest of wires to a minimum. Otherwise, very similar to Rebel, EZ Wire, Painless, etc, etc. Not inexpensive, but the truck kit includes a lot of the switches (eg ignition switch, dimmer switch).

Doug


1947 2nd-Series GMC FC152 3/4-ton
Follow the story in the DITY

1953 Chevy Bel Air Sport Coupe Powerglide
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S
'Bolter
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Hey Doug, I’ll check out American Autowire. I’m just beginning the process of picking out a harness, so I have a lot to learn. I never have liked a rats nest underneath the dash. I think it looks ugly!

Greg, can you tell me if that classic parts harness comes with the headlight connector ends? Also, do the terminal ends come with connectors attached or would I have to do all of that? It’s a relatively inexpensive harness, so I don’t expect her to have a lot of frills Also, are there markings every 6 inches on the wirres?


Chuck
1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original)
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod)
1941 Chevy coupe
1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Sir Searchalot
Sir Searchalot
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No matter how many times I read here how good it is keep 6V when rewiring, it never makes any sense. The conversion is easy. It does not change the looks of the truck....or the value. Parts will always be harder to find and more expensive. If you are interested, I will post my famous, highly informative 12V Spiel.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
If your 6v system is “clean” and working well, and you do not need/want 12v devices, why not stay with the 6v?

Bad grounds and small battery/ground cables are the reasons for unreliable/weak 6v systems. These are easy to remedy and/or easy to repair/replace.

My 6v generators/starters/bulbs ignition-parts cost as much to replace/rebuild as do my 12v parts.

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B
Sir Searchalot
Sir Searchalot
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10si Alternator $30. No Voltage regulator to buy. 12V uses existing 6V starter. Wiring harness cheaper, includes fuse box. All parts, including battery, more available. Many other intrinsic and practical advantages. No shade thrown on those who wish to be "pure". To me, it's pure in the wrong place. I like original myself. With modern electrical, brakes, lights and tires. (safety, reliability and availability)

I only mention it when someone is doing a makeover involving electrics. Something to consider. Chuck knows all this. Others may not.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,644
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 1,644
Reviving this thread from last year……

My truck is a 1950 Chevy half ton with 235. Converting to 12 V.

Bartamos recommended the Speedway #91064017 harness. I just called Speedway and they say it’s a quality harness suitable for my current and possible future needs, just as Bartamos stated. There are cheaper, less complicated harnesses (Classic Parts brand $150) but I’m willing to spend more to get more. Unless there is a newer, better harness someone knows about, or another good harness on sale somewhere, I’m going to buy the Speedway harness by weeks end.


Chuck
1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original)
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod)
1941 Chevy coupe
1938 Chevy coupe streetrod

Moderated by  Jon G, Rusty Rod 

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