I want to install a new wiring harness on my 1950 1/2 ton with a 216 and ran across this harness and wondered if it would be a good choice? If anyone has installed this harness please comment. Thanks!
Rebel Wire 9 + 3 Wiring Harness
This harness has 12 Fuses and 14 Circuits. Its perfect for your Hot Rod, Street Rod, Custom or Muscle Cars and Trucks that require fewer circuits.
Assembled in the USA from American made components, the heavy duty SXL wire is labeled every 6" and bundled for easy installation.
This kit has 11 circuits for lights, gauges, radio, radio constant-cell phone charger, wiper, ac-heat, motor, and third brake light, plus 3 open circuits for whatever you might want to add such as power windows and doors, etc. KIT COMES WITH HEADLIGHT CONNECTORS, 4 1/4 TURN SIGNAL CONNECTOR AND FLOOR DIMMER CONNECTOR.
Kit comes with easy to use instructions for Chevy, Ford or Mopar installations, dash light wire, neutral safety switch wire, fusible link, 1 1/4" rubber grommet for the firewall, 3 fuse block terminals and fuse block label
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
I'd say it depends on what you have in your truck, and where you want to go with it. If your truck isn't stock, and requires a bunch of extra circuits, this might be the right choice. I couldn't say for sure. If your truck is completely stock, and you just want to replace the existing wiring with newer vinyl coated wires, using the original fuse box, then I'd recommend a simpler harness, which will also be much cheaper. I used this one Classic Parts wiring harness on my 49 and I'm very happy with the results. They have the equivalent for other years.
Like Greg (and others to follow) said, it all depends on where you are going with this truck. It is a lot easier to roll up the end of a wire and zip tie it out of sight than it is to run an extra wire to some accessory that you might want to add down the line.
Another quality post. Real Trucks Rattle HELP! The Paranoids are after me!
Thiswould be better. The "universal" type wiring harnesses are basically all the same quality wire and use a prewired fuse box. They are just fine for you. This one is cheaper and has more extras. Free ship.
A 12 circuit harness for a stock, or near stock, 1950 truck will have extra circuits/wires. The circuits on this harness are: 1. Wipers 2. Fan 3 AC/heat 4. Gauges 5. Turn signal 6. Choke 7. Coil 8. Radio 9. Horn 10. Headlights 11. Brake 12. Hazard
So Red circuits could be potential extras. There will be some ammeter, generator/alternator, subtle changes ....to be made for an older truck. No big deal. I suppose you are talking 12V conversion?
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Greg, thanks for the link to the $150 Classic Parts harness. It’s nearly half the price of the Rebel brand.
Rusty, thanks for reminding me to keep it simple. Good advice!
Bartamos, your last question set off a lightbulb in my head. I’ve got an original 6 volt system, so that 12 volt harness won’t work for me. Rebel Wire makes a 6 volt harness for $70 more at $295. The $150 Classic Parts harness looks to be a better choice for me.
Thanks
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
I will warn you that the instructions for that $150 harness aren't great - unless they've improved them over the last couple years. The wires are all numbered on both ends, but for some reason they didn't include all the wire numbers in the instructions, so you have to decipher a couple things. It's not too hard to figure out, but can be a little confusing and frustrating.
Chuck, I'm joining this conversation a bit late, but you may want to check out American Autowire. I like the fact that wiring can be run from point of load back to the main harness or the fuse block, instead of the other way around, which keeps the rats nest of wires to a minimum. Otherwise, very similar to Rebel, EZ Wire, Painless, etc, etc. Not inexpensive, but the truck kit includes a lot of the switches (eg ignition switch, dimmer switch).
Hey Doug, I’ll check out American Autowire. I’m just beginning the process of picking out a harness, so I have a lot to learn. I never have liked a rats nest underneath the dash. I think it looks ugly!
Greg, can you tell me if that classic parts harness comes with the headlight connector ends? Also, do the terminal ends come with connectors attached or would I have to do all of that? It’s a relatively inexpensive harness, so I don’t expect her to have a lot of frills Also, are there markings every 6 inches on the wirres?
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
No matter how many times I read here how good it is keep 6V when rewiring, it never makes any sense. The conversion is easy. It does not change the looks of the truck....or the value. Parts will always be harder to find and more expensive. If you are interested, I will post my famous, highly informative 12V Spiel.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
10si Alternator $30. No Voltage regulator to buy. 12V uses existing 6V starter. Wiring harness cheaper, includes fuse box. All parts, including battery, more available. Many other intrinsic and practical advantages. No shade thrown on those who wish to be "pure". To me, it's pure in the wrong place. I like original myself. With modern electrical, brakes, lights and tires. (safety, reliability and availability)
I only mention it when someone is doing a makeover involving electrics. Something to consider. Chuck knows all this. Others may not.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
My truck is a 1950 Chevy half ton with 235. Converting to 12 V.
Bartamos recommended the Speedway #91064017 harness. I just called Speedway and they say it’s a quality harness suitable for my current and possible future needs, just as Bartamos stated. There are cheaper, less complicated harnesses (Classic Parts brand $150) but I’m willing to spend more to get more. Unless there is a newer, better harness someone knows about, or another good harness on sale somewhere, I’m going to buy the Speedway harness by weeks end.
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod