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I have been prepping a used 235 engine with hydraulic lifters(From a 1951 passenger car with powerglide)for a test run on a homemade engine stand. I have adjusted the points , static timed the motor, adjusted the valves a few times and it sounds close to starting but wont` quite fire. I have spark and gas at carb ,having flooded it while trying the start up. I don`t know much about the motors history but the PO said it ran had been rebuilt (.??) My hope is to get this motor running and install in my 53 chevy pick up with 4 speed . This will allow me to rebuild the tired motor that came out of the truck ( a 1961 235 ).
After adjusting #1,#3, #5 exhaust and #1,# 2, #4 intake at #1 TDC position then rotating the crank 360 degrees to #6 TDC ,I adjusted the exhaust valves on 2,4,6 and intakes on 3,5,6 . After crank and no start I now see that pushrods for #2 exhaust, #3 intake, #4 exhaust are floating free of the rocker arms with about 1/4 inch slack .The flywheel timing mark is at TDC for cylinder 3/4 . I also noted that these three rocker arm adjustments show much greater thread above the locking nut. Is it normal to have the pushrods totally floating free of the rocker arms at different revolutions of the engine or are my adjustments off? I have tried each adjusting scenario three times. First just setting the valves by adjusting all slack out of the adjustment screw/pushrod .Next I adjusted so slack disappears and giving it 1/4 turn tension and lastly adding 1/2 turn adjustment. In addition I have used the intake, exhaust manifolds, carb, distributor and starter from my 1961 engine. The carburetor (rochester B) was operating ok in the truck prior to removal although the heat riser had been stuck and the choke was always necessary to get it started.
Since retirement and Covid I have lots of shop time available to solve this issue although I need some advice on what to try next.



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Try the old and proven exhaust opening and intake closing method. Pull all of the spark plugs. Now, Starting with cylinder No. 1, rotate the engine until the exhaust rocker just begins to open the exhaust valve. Then Set the intake by loosening the adjuster then tightening until you cant turn the pushrod between your fingers then back off a little until you can. Bump the engine over again and watch the intake rocker this time. Continue to bump the engine until the intake is fully open, and then just starts to close. Now Set the exhaust. If you're not sure about whether a valve is an intake or an exhaust, the easiest way to tell is to line up the valve with either an intake or an exhaust port.

This will hopefully get the motor at least running. Once warmed up and the lifters are pumped up, you will want to readjust using whatever method you prefer. I like the running method for setting hydraulic lifters. others have their preferences.

Here is a "two camshaft position" method for adjusting mechanical valve-lash on a warmed-up 216/235/261 stovebolt engine.

"two steps" 12-valves (6 at a time/rotation).

Ok thanks all. I`ll give it another try tomorrow using the proven step by step method and see what happens.

I have used the method Tim has linked to with good results. If you use that method, once you have found TDC, take a piece of tape and mark the top of the harmonic balancer. This way you will know when the ball (TDC or 180 degrees) is coming up on the flywheel. It makes it easier to locate not having to keep an eye on the flywheel all the time.

If you use Dragsix’s method, it makes it easier to mark the top edge of the distributor with a paint pen to help locate the TDC of each piston. You can accomplish this by taking a piece of masking tape, cut it into a 1/4” strip then and wrap it around the top of the distributor base and mark where they overlap. Remove the tape and use a ruler to split the tape into six marks (the overlap mark counts as one) from end of tape to the overlap mark. Now with the rotor pointing to the #1 firing order position reinstall the tape so the rotor is pointing at one of the marks. Now following the marks and use a paint marker to mark the edge of the distributor, so you will know what valves to adjust by the position of the rotor.

Stovebolt hydraulic lifters require one extra step- - - -drive to the swamplands near New Orleans and hire a Cajun voodoo princess to shake a dead chicken over the engine and cast a spell on those noisy lifters! If Marie LaVeau were still alive, she could probably do it in a few minutes!



Jerry

Dragsix, Hotrod Lincoln & Phak1 all have the right idea. I swear by the static timing but never thought about marking the balancer. We have a Anitatlla Snataeon Boudrue' that lives above the water of Shingle Creek Swamp. She had a 49-3100 with four flats but blessed the parts off it. I got a horn and a fan blade but the blade broke and ruined my horn. I shoulda guessed, she had the only 1960 Edsel I've ever seen and a 32 Deuce. Doc.

Memo: don't waste your time again.

Do a search in the forum archives for "companion cylinder valve adjustment". It's a simple, virtually foolproof way to adjust the valves on any engine with an even number of cylinders. I'm tired of repeating the same procedure to people who refuse to use it. Of course, any "foolproof" method will challenge the fools to get more creative!
Jerry