The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Re: What did you get done on your 'Bolt today?

Well...we got the brakes bled on the '52, new exhaust gasket installed, new fan belt installed, new clutch return spring installed and went for a short drive. I wanted to bring it home tonight, but the shop is about 20 miles from the house, and thanks to daylight savings time changes, it was dark. I really didn't want to chance the first drive in 6 months in the dark, especially considering everything we've done to the old guy.
Tomorrow, though- Sam the '52 comes home! It's been a long six months, and I'll be glad to have it home where I can start on rust repair and floor replacement.

The brief drive though, proved the brakes are working better than ever, and it drove out great.

Well stuff got in the way of fixing the transmission cooler line on the ‘62 C-10. Wife’s dishwasher crapped out and that is for sure a priority. Got back to the ‘62 yesterday morning. Pulled the high pressure side line and after 3 trips to NAPA the job is complete. On to the next project.

Thanks to Harold46 for sending photos . Didn’t need to scratch my head for too long and was able to install NOS engine splash pans on my 46 GMC project. Fit perfectly. Looks good.

Relocated the throttle return spring to get rid of the sticking to full throttle,it ended up being the floor mat was rubbing the pedal rod but I did get the spring returned to the original location.

Mounted the springs on my frame, for the final time...

Valve adjustment. The engine in my '53 is a '54 235, originally passenger car service with standard transmission, block serial number suffix F54Z.

Two good surprises: how clean the inside is - first time I've had the valve cover off this engine - and (interesting surprise) that the head has a '55 date code (see photos). I don't know too much about the engine's past history, other than it is not original to my '53, but it appears this engine doesn't have too many miles since rebuild (and maybe explains why there is a '55 head on this block). The head is a little-documented casting number 3837161, which appears to be a '913 variant.

Not so good, although not a surprise - the valves were all over the place before adjustment. Some intakes very loose. Two exhaust valves too tight. About par for the course, I'd say.

Used my new to me, vintage Plomb valve adjustment tool (3rd & 4th photo). Worked like a charm.

I worked on some frame assembly for a the 59", I finally have a rolling chassis.

Finally brought my 1952 Chevrolet Suburban back home and attached a new wooden floor to the frame

Replaced the radiator/hoses yesterday, now to refill and test everything again make sure there's no leaks with ne new hose connections.

I replaced the cheap fan belt I had on the '52 with the correct one, and began cutting out rusted metal in preparation to installing floor pans and kick panels. The floor braces and all were in better shape than I feared, given that the pans themselves looked like Fred Flintstone drove it. The replacement floor pans I ordered, though do NOT fit perfectly- looks like they were slightly bent a bit much where the pan meets the kick panel. Nothing that can't be corrected though. The kick panel patches, from Rock Auto are dead on though. Cheap and had the GM "Goodmark" brand on them, and the shipping was fast.

And, it sure is nice to hear that sweet little 235 fire off instantaneously now. For most of the time I've owned it, it had a starter problem. It would turn over, but just before starting- "zing, zing". Now that's a thing of the past, I am enjoying it immensely. Maybe too much- my sister pointed out I haven't driven the '46 this week because I've been in the '52.

Made up rear upper shock mounts for my ‘55 with Dana 80 rear.

Ed

Should have painted some color. All made from .750” crs.
Two ea. 2” long, drill and tap .5x20” threads to tap depth.
One each 7” long to fit your shocks. Drill and tap 9/16” to fit your shocks, drill and tap other end .5x20” to tap depth, bend 9/16 end to match shock angle.
Drill .5” holes in frame in locations to accept shock loads.
Mount three studs just produced in appropriate mounting locations to fit shocks, make patterns to fit between three mounts and copy out of steel, weld two samples to studs just produced. Disassemble and finish welding, paint and reassemble, mount shocks.

Hope this is clear, works really well, cheap to make.

Ed

I swept out the bed and cab, washed the truck, and Windex’d all the glass. I’ll ArmorAll the tires tomorrow.

I also picked up a 6 lug wheel with mounted tire. Threw it in the bed. I’ve never had a spare.

I mounted the upper shock mounts for the front, the side engine mounts and transmission crossmember. Each piece is a another step to getting it together.

Installed the 46 radiator after having it tested, flushed and a couple minor tank repairs soldered. Impressed that a 75 year old radiator still works and operates as well as it does.

Got the hydroboost assembly installed in my '55. Assembly did not fit well, many hours of rattail file work, but it is done, will get the MC soon.

Ed

Doors refinished, that was a very long process. Now lets see how long I can drag out putting them back together. Time to get out the shop manual.....

I replaced the "ratrod" style Maltese cross taillight on the '52 with one of the correct reproduction taillights I have been hoarding. I intended to wait until we did the paint and body work, but couldn't stand it any longer. I also did some more trimming and test fitting of floor panels. Hopefully, we will have them installed, along with kick panel patches, over the Thanksgiving holiday weekend.
My biggest hamper, other than money, to this whole process is keeping my butt out of the driver's seat. I started to take the '46 to town today to pick up some panel bond, but the battery was dead. A reasonable man would've taken the daughter 's "modern" Jimmy. I'm not reasonable. I threw the temporary, quarter inch steel "floor pans" that the old farmer had been using in the '52 for the past 30 years back in, and away to town we went. Too much fun driving the antiques and life is too short to drive normal rides.

Got the lower rear shock mounts fabbed. Had the spring shop bend the steel for me and when I got the shocks today I welded the shock mount studs on them. (Don't look too close at the welds - they'll hold but aren't that pretty. ) The original shock mount studs were in terrible shape.

I installed new headlight reflectors and halogen bulbs that I bought from Jim Carter's. Nice and bright even in daylight.

Installed a sway bar on my '59 (235/3 on tree, all stock) today & I was blown away with it's new road manners. I like it stock, but it really was leaning in corners . You know...... turn the wheel & hang on at same time kinda thing.

I feel its safer & makes it more enjoyable to drive. I've only had it 14 months, got it from my neighbor. Last ran in 1986, took me 100 days to get it running right & all legal.

The sway bar was $125 ish from cpp (on ebay). I gotta say I was shocked by the excellent quality. Powder coated, zinc plated hardware & grade 5 bolts.

Pulled a hood hinge out of a 2-day soak in Evaporust. Cleaned up pretty well (except my container didn't have enough in it to completely submerge the hinge plate. You can see how rusty they were from the remaining rust on the corner. That was pretty much all over the hinge plate. There is a little of the original zinc plating on the back side that the Evaporust doesn't mess with.
Once completely derusted, these will get zinc plated as a finishing touch.

Thanks Fester! I’ve been considering a sway bar on my ‘57 3200 but couldn’t decide front or rear first. I’ll go with your pleasing results and put the front one on my Christmas list.

Got the passenger side floor pan installed in the '52.Not as neat as I wanted, but then I realized it definitely was not as bad as the old farmer's repair job that I cut out. I also have had to remind myself that perfect is the enemy of good, and I am NOT trying for a high scoring show truck- rather, I am trying to preserve and enjoy an antique, which will never leave my possession while I am alive. Therefore, all I need is to make me happy, and all that will take is no more rust and solid metal. I'll use the grinders, ect. to dress it up and some bed liner will be sprayed on it before it will get padding and a new rubber floor mat. Hopefully this next couple of days will see the driver's floor pan replaced as well. Gonna be real strange to actually drive the '52 without seeing the road beneath my feet, and worrying about dropping my phone, ect to an untimely death. It'll also keep me from an unwanted shower anytime I hit a mud puddle. LOL

Today I installed the Rear Cab Mounting Shackles on my 1953 3600.
Only tricky part is that the cab has to be raised above the frame so that the mount holes line up with frame. I used 2x6’s on a floor Jack to raise rear of cab cab.
Not a bad job - good Pilates crawling under truck of course...
Below is a stock pic of what these look like.

Finally got good ground wires to passenger side taillight and driver’s side headlight. I think I’m going to eventually mount a terminal junction block busbar on firewall and run some solid grounds from there.

I cut off the horn ring on a $400.00 steering wheel. It has bugged me for a long time because it obstructed the view of the speedometer unless I tilted the wheel and then I felt like driving a bus or it was in my lap.

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/download/Number/25173/filename/IMG_1577.JPG


I picked up the seat from upholstery shop and installed it in the 59 Apache. I did not have to do much on the seat but have done most of the work on the truck except windshield installation and now seat upholstery.

Got the lifters cleaned, reassembled, installed, and adjusted. Hydraulic lifters that have been sitting for 18 years or so.

Love your seat, it came out great!!! Was it a kit from a supplier or did the upholstery shop make it? Also what color is your 59? Stock color? Thanks

The seat in the Apache is the original seat and the shop rebuilt it and made the covering. They also made a card for the back of seat and covered it too. The color is Deep Lagoon blue single stage urethane from Eastwood. I mixed a little clear in with the paint and finished with 3 coats of clear over the blue.

Tried out zinc electroplating today. Here's a few pics of the setup and the final result on the hood latch spring. Not bad for a 70 year old spring, eh? Starts out dark steel colored, then a soft gray, then after a little polishing with a brass brush, nice and shiny.

That is a wonderful looking seat. My son and I purchased a 1956 6400 a week ago. It will be our project. Right now we are removing all of the heater parts and interior parts. Mice got into the heater and created a big mess. I have all the parts sand blasted and am repainting. In any event, the previous owner welded in a pair of 2001 Suburban seats. They do not look bad, but weld them in? On the other hand, I would prefer an OE style seat, but I do like the 3 point seat belts on the Suburban seats. I will be cutting them out, and perhaps modifying the brackets to be able to bolt them in. Were those custom sewn covers or did you order them. Was there padding on the seat that needed to be replaced?

Thanks for a reply!

Steve C

Disconnected the fuel line and ran the carb dry for winter... sad day...

I recently found a vintage Dieterich sun visor at a great price - $75 - right here in my home town. Good prospect for my '54 3100. ( My truck that is not headed for full restoration , I just want to "unBubba" and drive it.)
There was some damage : The right wing had been bent. As most of you already know , the rigidity of the aluminum visor wings is based on the rolled leading edge. If a wing is bent , the rolled edge kinks. In this case there were two concave depressions in the top surface and the wing was bent upwards slightly , as though something had been dropped on it from above. The picture showing the visor lying on my driveway does not show the dents. It does show the weathered condition - I plan to sand very lightly and clear coat the original finish.

My solution : With no experience whatsoever in body work I placed the visor belly up on a block of styrofoam and tap-tap-tapped the dents out with a rubber mall. That corrected the concave depressions , although the top surface is slightly rippled - the aluminum does not spread the load the way steel would. Not perfect but much improved. Still not completely straightened out , however. Still flexible. I then clamped the visor wing onto a good true piece of lumber and bedded an aluminum rod into the inside curve of the leading rolled edge. The rod was a shotgun cleaning rod ; bedding material : JB weld. Clamps came off this morning , wing is very nearly straight and nicely rigid. Next I'll sand and clean up the bedding material , probably fair it in a bit , then repaint the underside of the entire visor with zinc chromate ; that should take the edge off of the appearance.

Added note:
I had my choice between the weathered , damaged Dieterich and a vintage Fulton in very good condition ($275) ; I chose the Dieterich because it had much more character , and the need to repair and salvage it is consistent with the rest of my truck.

"unBubba" your truck?

My grandchildren call me Bubba and they love to site/ride in Bubba's truck.

We are now street-legal (child-seats-wise) going for rides in my 1954 Suburban (with original bench seats).

In the last few days, we have made new mounts for the seats and installed reinforcing plates in and under the floor to bolt the seats to. The seats that came with the truck,(1956 6400) are from about 2001 Silverado bucket seats. They were welded to the floor. I removed them, and made new brackets to get them to be able to bolt in, and also to repair where the poor welding was done. I have kept it so an original seat can bolt right in if he so chooses. But for now, we are going to stick with the updated seats. Not the least reason is that they have 3 point seat belts as part of the seat. This is another reason that I wanted the mounts to be strong and safe. I also found a center console out of a Dodge Durango at a salvage yard today. It will fit perfectly between the seats and provide some storage and cup holders. I also salvaged a clutch inspection cover and gauge cluster from a 6400 in the yard. Also I think I found a set of 9r22.5 tires at the same yard that we are most likely going to be picking up. I repaired the kick panels, the right one needed to have the bottom 1 1/5 inches replaced. Our new right vent door also arrived today. Lots of progress going on.

Steve

I Finally finished the Wood bed (Yellow Pine ). Black paint with Acetone stain, then Teak oil. Bolts & bed strips powder coated black.
And built a wood bed rack to match.

Today I made a panel to attach the console to. [img]http://[/img][img]http://[/img]

As you can see in the photo, the panel has nuts welded to the underside. It is made from 16 guage, so it is pretty stout. The console bolts to it. In the other two photos, the panel has been welded in place, and the console and seats are bolted in place. The previous owner had welded the seats to the floor. I couldn't have that. All of these mods will still allow an OEM seat to bolt right in if so desired. I do like the safety of the updated seats with three point belts and head restraints. I don't mind not going OEM for safety, especially as this is technically my son's truck. Plus it will be more comfortable. We are trying to decide on flooring. I will also be building a bulkhead to enclose the gas tank. It will not only give the cab more storage, but again, provide an increase of safety in the event of a crash.

Thanks for reading!

Steve

Nice looking work. I like the stain color.

Steve