The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Engine question - 1949 250 dually tilt bed

I am relatively new to the site and an owner of a 1949 GMC 250 flat / tilt bed. The truck has the original 228 engine. I am just starting on this truck and being a “newbie” thought I’d start with an engine question. The truck runs but not that well. At times (not always) it smokes excessively. A local large engine specialty shop (United Engine Specialist) has a vintage engine department that specializes in older engines. They have quoted me $1000.00 for pulling the engine and another $2800 to $5000 for complete overhaul. Having zero experience, I thought I’d ask the group about this price. I have also found other engines, like a rebuilt 248 for half what the shop is asking to rebuild mine. So my question is: am I better off keeping the existing engine and does keeping it add to the trucks value? Or, am I better off upgrading to a slightly larger engine? Also, is what I’ve been quoted for my existing engine rebuild inline with current prices?
Thank you in advance for your help. Attached are a few pics of the truck.

Hy Barcho, welcome, having no idea of your mechanical knowledge or skill, I would suggest some investigation of your engines condition before making any decisions about replacing/rebuilding your engine. Remove the engines spark plugs and "read" them for their condition, I'm sure googling "spark plugs, checking" or something similar will yield picture and descriptions. A compression test will also tell you about general engine condition. Do some investigation so you have more information. A word about engine rebuilding, if you have a shop rebuild your particular engine you will pay for their time by their hourly rate, if you buy an exchange engine you pay a flat price for the engine and you give them your old engine as a "core" to be rebuilt, if you don't have a "core" you will have to pay an extra fee. I doubt anyone will have an exchange program for these old engines, just trying to educate. Good luck with your project.

Thank you Master Gabster. I have a pretty good mechanical background. I sold tools for Snap-on Aerospace division fir 18 years. I also have owned one other vintage car (59 Triumph) and I assist in the maintenance of my aircraft. I have installed new plugs in the truck and performed basic tuneup procedures but given the trucks smoking, I have concluded it will need a little more love. I am performing a compression test this week and will report that back. Mostly curious about the cost I was quoted for the rebuild and if it was inline with what I should expect to pay and if swapping engines would impact the trucks value.
Thanks again for responding!
Barcho

The only difference in a 228 and a 248 engine is the size of the pistons and rings. The crankshaft, rod and main bearings, and virtually everything else in the engine is the same. Adding 20 cubic inches will increase the horsepower and torque the engine develops a little, but I'd prefer to keep the otiginal engine and rebuild it to "like new" condition. That being said, the price you've been quoted for the rebuild is just shy of highway robbery. Shop around for an experienced engine rebuilder who isn't trying to get rich by fleecing his customers. Parts for GMC's are scarce and expensive, but they're still available if you shop wisely. Ebay has a surprising number of parts for antique engines, including GMC sixes.
Jerry

Thanks a million Jerry! That’s what I need to know. The price seemed excessive to me. Thanks for verifying. I like the idea of keeping it original too. I’ll press on for a less expensive shop.

I have asked the 1 Ton Forum Moderator to delete the post there.

I have done the same via private message. Thanks for your help!

Before you get to far into an engine swap, confirm what serial number is on your title (cab or engine). Most States back then used the engine serial number and all States have a procedure for handling engine replacements in older vehicles...call your DVM for how it's done in your area.

Mike B

What does a Doctor of Veterinary Medicine have to do with vehicle registration???????
LOL!
Jerry

I am sure you know to do this, but when you are doing your compression test, remove all the plugs and do one test with the cylinder as is (or dry so to speak) and do another after putting a couple of good squirts of motor oil into the cylinder you are testing. do them one at time. The oil will temporarily seal the rings up and if the compression reading is markedly higher then the dry reading, you likely have a worn out engine. If the compression is pretty good, in the 120-150 range, does not go up a lot on the wet test, and each cylinder is within about 10% highest to lowest, you may just need to refresh the head. If you have a leak down testor and know how to use one, that would be even better. If not, the tried and true compression test will be helpful in this regard.

Perfect! I appreciate the advice!! Thank you!

[quote=Mike B]Before you get to far into an engine swap, confirm what serial number is on your title (cab or engine). Most States back then used the engine serial number and all States have a procedure for handling engine replacements in older vehicles...call your DVM for how it's done.

Thanks Mike, I checked the title and you are correct, the engine number is the if number on the title. More reasons to keep the same engine!

BTW - that’s a nice truck. You can call your DMV and or visit their website and find out about engine swaps. In my case, the DMV told me to call the State Police and a trooper came over to the shop. He verified the engine ID (I had a Bill if Sale), we filled out the form for serial number change - he called in the numbers to verify if they were ever on record for being stolen. After that...I submitted the Trooper signed form to the State DMV office. Several weeks later I received a new title.

Each State maybe be different.. swapping out an old engine is not uncommon.

Bart, there is a 236 cubic inch GMC engine with a 3 5/8" bore size. Your 228 block can be opened up to that size by boring the cylinders 1/16" oversize if it turns out the cylinders are worn tapered to the point of needing a rebore. That's roughly the equivalent of an .060" overbore to the 228 cylinder size of 3 9/16". That's a way of getting slightly more displacement without losing the original engine serial number, and the GMC block can handle a 60 over bore size with no problems at all.
Jerry