The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop engine paint

I’m looking at PPG ALK-200 for use as an engine paint. Does anyone here have experience with it? Classic Chevrolet Truck Parts is selling it, and I’m thinking of trying it.
Thank you,
Larry

I have no problem with it.
You can buy it at a PPG auto paint store.
For an engine, you can simply brush it on. Virtually no brush marks so it’s nice for touch ups.

I am currently painting my truck Brewster Green using that product. It sprays and lays out well. Easy to wet sand. Especially if you are shooting in your garage....

It’s not like base/clear so if your spray. There is no clear coat.

It doesn’t have isocyanates in it unless you use the hardener. The venders that sell it do not sell it with the hardener.

Let me know if you want more info on using this product.

Mike

Good info Mike.

I have the ALK-200 for my truck that I got from Jim Carter. Will be using it when things warm up.

What do you think about using the hardener? It seems a bit hard to come by.

Stores that sell PPG auto paint has the hardener.

I don’t use the hardener in the engine paint but I do in the frame paint.

I have a tendency to not use the venders paint because I don’t know where they get it from and if they change suppliers/types, I won’t be able to match it. I got the color off of an engine and had PPG formulate it for ALK-200.

I’m told it’s just about as hard either way but without the hardener takes longer. The hardener only makes the surface harder. Also there is a difference in drying times.... see the data sheet.

I like it as a frame paint because I can do touch ups with a small brush. And I can paint the tops of the bolts I’d needed.

Blending Is a little tricky if one coat has the hardener and the other doesn’t.

Mike

I thought I had replied earlier, but thanks for the info. It looks good in green.

Larry

Hi Mike. I am supposed to get my engine back tomorrow so I’m checking to see if you have any recommendations about types of brushes to use and recoat times. I did print a copy of the tech sheet, and it says brush or roller is not recommended. I’m assuming that it’s preferable to spray when doing body panels. Any thoughts will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Larry

I just use a paint brush. What ever size you prefer...
Because of the texture of the block, you won’t see any brush marks.

It levels out well anyways.

Sheet metal can be sprayed. If you don’t have a spray gun.... I bought a small spray gun ... like a large airbrush.... from HF and it worked fine. The cup is small but that’s ok because you don’t need a lot of paint anyways.

Just break it down to check for rust.... they are usually less than $10.

I believe the redcoat time is after it flashes off... so you can redcoat between 3hours to 4days. Something like that.... you just need to to wait until the solvent evaporates before recoating... check the data sheet. If you wait until after 4 days, you will have to sand it.

Let me know if you have a problem.... or PM me with your phone # and I’ll call you.

Mike

Larry,

PM me if your doing the body....

Mike

Thanks again for your help. I’m not painting any body panels at this time. I may decide to spray the engine sheet metal.