I have searched this forum and other related club pages and am familiar with the products offered to replace the deteriorated drip rail sealer applied at the factory. Of the many videos showing the procedure, all I have seen show the vehicle in some stage of major restoration. Though this truck would be an excellent choice for restoration, that is not my desire.
Is it possible to effectively prep inside the drip rail and lay in new sealer without having to grind, sand and repaint the entire roof? I have attached photos of my ’61. Fortunately, there is no rust damage to the roof (inside or out). The truck is clean and straight with very minimal surface rust.
I could probably avoid driving if rain is forecast, as I have with the Olds. But the purpose of this vehicle was to combine the pleasure and enjoyment of a nice old truck with the practical utility it provides. I am not set up for body work and paint in my garage. I was hoping some in the Stovebolt community would have some advice or insight in this regard. Otherwise, I will have to find a reliable restoration garage in my area that can be trusted to do the job and shoot the roof.
I have used seam sealer on my 72 gmc years ago seemed to last .I no longer have the truck but it did the job ,I used the can and taped off the area and used a brush but you can get a tube of it also .I believe it was made by 3m .I think someone posted recently what they used .
You could tape off the area prior to carefully chipping/scraping the area. Use a few layers. I wouldn’t be too concerned with the old sealer that is still adhered. The new sealer will seal the old so it will stop it from lifting. Sand and prime any areas that you sand/scrape thru to metal (ou can use rust encapsulater, then let it dry. Remove the tape, clean it with wax/grease remover, re-mask then apply the sealer.
If you careful and take your time, you’ll be successful!
Last edited by Phak1; 12/10/20207:13 PM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Tear duct tape into strips about 3/4" wide and apply a couple of layers of it to the paint just inboard of the sealer you want to renew. Then use a small-diameter wire wheel in a variable-speed drill motor to clean the area prior to applying the new stuff. I don't think it's a good idea to leave any old sealer- - - -you'll just trap contaminants where they can cause problems down the road sometime in the future. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
If I remember right I taped using masking tape to protect the paint tore up some sandpaper and sanded by hand after scraping the old sealer off . I then used rust neutralizer flat black rust paint brushed on then the sealer .The sealer that I used can be put on over paint or bare metal ,I choose the flat paint ,after the sealer dried I painted the same colour of truck with a brush
The original seam sealer is a lacquer based product, which much like lacquer paint, is susceptible to shrinking and cracks (checking). After masking off your good paint as others have detailed, the entirety of the old seam sealer needs to be removed, the drip rails abraded, then EPOXY primer used as your substrate. After that has set (per recoat window), then use an EPOXY seam sealer in place of the old stuff. The epoxy seam sealer does require a special cartridge gun, (you can find these for about $35 on up) but the shrinking and cracking issue will not happen again with this product. Here is the process we used on a wagon we are working on using a self-leveling epoxy seam sealer... both the topside and underside..
Thanks to all who took the time to share their experience.
I now have a precise understanding of the steps and proper procedure involved and am confident this project can be successfully completed over the winter without having to repaint the the roof. This is a relief. The roof responded so well to a little compound and polish that it would have been a shame to take it all off just to reapply the rail sealer. (See photo, attached).
