Need to find the correct part to connect my manual throttle cable to the throttle linkage on a Rochester b carb. some sort of stop nut to attach?? Also where is the register mark that the pointer on the distributor clamp gauge points to? A picture showing both would be much appreciated.
You have the wrong bracket on the carb for a manual throttle equipped carb. The correct one has two loops to attach cable housings- - - -one pointed toward the choke bell crank and another that points straight down toward the throttle bell crank. The manual throttle cable fits through the hole in the linkage instead of a cotter pin, and a round brass piece with a setscrew allows the cable to pull up on the linkage. Normally, the linkage rod slides up and down on the cable when the throttle knob is not pulled out.
Scrape the paint off the block- - -there should be a mark stamped there that lines up with the octane selector. Center the octane selector on that line, lock it down, and use the pinch clamp around the distributor housing to adjust the timing. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
You have to sometimes look very carefully for the mark. This is on a 62 motor that I purchased from a fellow two years ago. Complained that it never had the power he thought it should have. If you look carefully, ignition timing was retarded, amongst other problems.
OK- - - -I should have enlarged the picture a little- - - - -you've got the right bracket. All you need is the brass sleeve with the anchor screw. Push the throttle cable through the hole in the gas pedal linkage, and attach the stop to the cable far enough below it that it won't interfere with setting the idle speed. Then when you want to increase the engine speed for some reason, just pull the throttle cable knob. Hopefully, the cable sheath will have enough friction to keep the speed steady- - - - -some aftermarket cables don't. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
“Hopefully, the cable sheath will have enough friction to keep the speed steady- - - - -some aftermarket cables don't. Jerry ”
Mine, I bought from Classic Parts, did not. I even tried putting three kinks in the internal cable but still no good. The accelerator spring is just too strong. I basically bought it to fill a hole in the dash bit I did hope it would work!
[EDIT] A trick for cutting the cable to length is to run the cable to the clamp with a bit of slack, then pullout the throttle about 4 inches and cut thru both the outer sheath and the inner cable. Push the throttle back in, then continue with hooking it up. I used a cutoff wheel on my side grinder to cut the cable.
Last edited by Phak1; 12/09/202012:14 AM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Phil, there is a way to make a tensioner for the repop cable that will keep it in whatever position you choose. It's a fairly simple sleeve that slips over the cable sheath, with a couple of Allen head setscrews. Tighten the setscrews to crush the cable housing a little and create some friction on the inside wire. It's a very simple machining project to make one. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I had the same problem with my throttle cable as well. I had it hooked up correctly, but the throttle spring was too strong and therefore forced the dash knob to stay against the dash. I haven't messed with it any further, however I did drive a friends '54 with a 235 recently, and the throttle cable worked perfectly. Really came in handy on cold starts for warming up the engine.
-Patrick 1953 Chevrolet 3100 261 / 4-speed / 4:11 / Commercial Red
I think I’ll be on the lookout for an original cable to replace this overseas crap. In the interim, it fills the hole!
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Could someone please post a picture or pictures of both the choke and throttle cables from where they leave the firewall all the way to the carburetor attach points. On my 1947 Chevy 3100 at some point someone put on new choke and throttle cables...but rather than cut them to size they just wrapped them around the base of the carburetor. They work but it looks real tacky under the hood. Thanks, ray
For replacing the cable housing, go to your local bicycle shop and ask for bicycle brake cable housing.......OMG!
Craig
My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
My cable is new; however, I removed the inner cable and gave it a liberal coating of light oil prior to installation. Some will simply oil the exterior cable housing and let the lubricant 'bleed' its way to the inner cable. The more adventurous will remove the inner cable and slather it with oil, oil the cable housing, and then spend the rest of the afternoon trying insert the inner cable into the housing.........
I found that Oil attracts the finest of dust and makes a mess I use wax instead and so far seems to be good enough Besides the friction helps it stay put You got to pull out the wire for wax, but I do that before installing it Haven’t lubricated them since installed -s
Pull the inner cable and grease it. Stick it back into the outer cable housing.
Last edited by cmayna; 12/11/20202:49 AM.
Craig
My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.