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#1387434 12/07/2020 5:33 PM
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 123
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 123
I just want to be sure there is no specific torque requirements for the rear hub adjusting and lock nuts. This is all I could find in the shop manual. Looks like all you do is sung up the adjusting nut while rotating hub, back it off 45 degrees, install the lock nut lock, install lock nut and "tighten securely".

1956 Chevrolet 6100 2 speed rear axle.

Thanks
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InkedRear Hub_LI.jpg (170.39 KB, 125 downloads)

Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,100
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Nov 2005
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Hy DougH6100, yes the maintenance manual method is a good one, unfortunately I've seen a lot more bearing adjustments done with a punch and hammer than with the proper tools.

Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 123
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 123
Thanks for the reply, hammer and punch is how I had to get them off. I thought I saw something about torqueing them down to a certain ft-lbs, but must have been mistaken.

I have this tool for the install so I should be good.

Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 2,450
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 2,450
DougH6100...Ithink there may be a misprint in the service book that says to torque that nut to 33 ft. pds.should be 33 in. pds. once its together drive a little and feel your hub right up next to thewheel. Should not be hot barely warm is OK. After the torque have to backit off and most are done punch and chisel !

Joined: Feb 2004
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,771
Nope, 33 ft/lbs is right. That squeezes any excess grease out of the bearings, and assures the preload on the bearing is correct. THEN the nut is backed off a little until the hub turns freely. Stake the lock washer over the inner nut, and tighten the outer one securely, then bend another tab down to secure the outer nut.


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