The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Carb cleaner advice

I bought a gallon of Barrymans Chem Dip carburetor cleaner in preparation of a complete carb rebuild. I’ve never used this product before. Does anyone have any advice for me, such as how long to leave it in the solution? I don’t want to use it incorrectly and ruin an otherwise perfectly good Roachester B carb.

Many thanks.

I dont think you could with all the watered down cleaners they have these days, if anything, it will not do a very good job cleaning the parts because of this.

Follow the directions on the container.🛠

Of course it depends on how cruddy. About 6 hours and check. Remove parts that look clean. Resoak another 2 hours for others. No plastics or rubber parts. Take carb completely apart. All pieces. After soak, clean/wash with simple green and rinse with water. Blow it all out and dry completely.

Hey guys, thanks for all the advice. Even yours Martin. I graduated with a degree in chemistry, but nothing beats practical advice from someone who’s got experience with a product. I’ll give it a try this weekend.

Better go with Martin's advice. This is what it allegedly says on the can.

Berryman Chem-Dip Carburetor and Parts Cleaner (part #0996) is safe on for use on plastic, rubber, and most paints and metals, but it can react with some grades of aluminum and aluminum alloys. For that reason, we recommend on the container that soak times be limited to 15-30 minutes per dip with a total soak time not to exceed 4 hours for aluminum and aluminum-based parts, which is what your carburetor is made of. The darkening you see is caused by the surface formation of aluminum hydroxide and/or aluminum oxide (reaction products from extended soaking). Typically, the carburetor simply looks different but will still continue to function normally.

I found that after they changed to a more EPA mandated, CA shippable, formula, it takes longer/not as effective as in the day. Don't know what it says now on the can.

Cleaners soften deposits- - - -air removes them. Soak the completely disassembled carburetor in the solvent for several hours, minimum, flush thoroughly with HOT water for a few minutes, then use a needle-tipped air gun and about 100 PSI pressure to blow MASSIVE quantities of air through every passageway you can find. The trick is to get the casting and the drilled passages totally clear of any obstructions. One of my instructors at the GM training center in Memphis used to say "Put 55 gallons of air through every hole!" He had a good point there- - - -overkill during cleaning is just barely good enough.
Jerry

Thanks for the information Bartamos. I’m smart enough to read a manufacturer’s instructions on how to use their own product, but I also like to ask for people’s experience with it. They usually can tell you what the manufacturer can’t or won’t tell you.

Jerry, I’ve heard what you recommend before. Apparently forced air is your best friend during a carburetor overhaul. I’ll heed your advice!

Food for thought...

aluminum and aluminum-based parts, which is what your carburetor is made of

Except for the zinc and brass parts.

Interesting but the drink has citric acid in it and a few other "acids" that do the "cleaning". Brake cleaner is a poor comparison because it is formulated to loosen, flow and then evaporate/dry fast. No residue on brake shoes or pads. Draining off brake dust, brake fluid and some oils. Gotta be quick with it.
Almost anything else would have worked on the sticky stuff including soap and water. The video was similar to a ShamWoW! spot as seen on T.V. !! Same thing with coke and others. I use WD40 to clean grease and crime sometimes but it DOES leave a residue that has to be simple greened. But it cleans parts very well.
Actually my No. 1 is gas in a squirt bottle. I soaked carbs in gas and then washed, back in the day. Most parts are obviously used to gas. The problem has always been the famous "white stuff from hell" !

A different opinion:

Personally, I have NEVER liked the chemical cleaners, even 50 years ago when they were much stronger. Near choked to death on fumes from using on aluminum carb bodies.

Maybe 15 (maybe 20 - time flies faster daily) years ago, a good friend also in the carburetor business recommended I purchase an ultrasonic cleaner.

At the time, these things were EXPENSIVE!!! So, like a dummy, I opted to pay $600. for one made on the other side of the world from an ebay vendor. It was sufficiently large to submerge a Carter AFB 4-barrel, Plugged it in, and put in a liberal concentration of a very exotic cleanser (Dawn dishwater soap). Did a REALLY nice job. Cleaned a second carb, same results. Put in the third carb and the cleaner died! No warranty, no return.

So, armed with the above results, I set out to find one made in the USA. Found one made in Ohio. By the time I added the various options to the unit (variable heat control, variable wave intensity, etc.), the unit was up around $5 k. Purchased the unit. Still runs well, still cleans well. PAID FOR ITSELF EASILY IN THE FIRST 6 MONTHS!

Now, I realize a hobbyist cannot justify the purchase of an ultrasonic cleaner to clean one carburetor (unless one is independently wealthy ). So started experimenting to see what I could recommend to enthusiasts. The answer is a 3 pound metal coffee can! Place the castings in the can and cover with water. Add the detergent of your choice. Simple Green or Purple Power work somewhat better than Dawn, but Dawn works. BOIL the concoction for some time to be determined. You aren't going to hurt anything. You may have to change the water/detergent on a really dirty carb.

The roiling action of the bubbles created by boiling approximates the ultrasonic action; not as well but certainly cheaper.

If you do decide to buy an ultrasonic cleaner, learn from my lesson. Doesn't matter how cheap it is, even if given to you, if it doesn't work!

Finally, if you are going to use the chemical cleaners on aluminum bodies, DO IT OUTSIDE, AND WEAR A MASK!!!!!! My customer base is aging, do not wish to lose a customer to chemicals

Jon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078L2GPNR/ref=biss_dp_sa1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078KYPYJD/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1

Quality/Reviews/Prices seem to be good?
SquareTrade might sell an extended warranty?
Even this/these are hard to justify for hobbyist?

Jon's coffee can technique is worth trying.

Thank you Jon for taking time to share your experience with ultrasonic cleaners with all of us. It’s information and advice from folks like you that helps me and others the most. Passing on your experience with not only ultrasonic cleaners, but all things about carburetors is so valuable, and will help others long after you’re gone! All of us here at Stovebolt.com really appreciate your frequent comments, advice, and instruction. You’re a real encyclopedia of knowledge.

Chuck

I have mentioned this before but I really do believe the days soaking a carb in cleaner and stabbing a kit in it are long gone, for a couple of reasons. First, a lot of the carbs were are messing with are 50 plus years old and have been rebuilt by who knows how many rebuilders, backyard or otherwise, and who knows how many times. Second, the professional guys have so much more available to them to do the job correctly. Like Carbking above, they use different cleaning solutions, ultrasonic baths, they have access to the little led or aluminum plugs to get into all the passages, bushings and the tooling to install the bushings so no vacuum leaks through the shafts, chromate dips, special tools to reform the seats for the check balls, new hardware and other necessary bits and pieces, specialty tools, wet and dry flow benches, all kinds of things that we hobbyists simply don't have access. I just looked at a pair of NOS Rochester BC's that I have had stashed away for a good many years. When I pulled the tops off to inspect the insides, they were a mess from sitting. The same thing is likely the condition of used carbs. A number of years ago I was running out of time on an engine build I was doing. So I farmed out the carb to a professional. When I got it back, it not only looked new, it ran like it was new out of the box with very little adjustment needed. So I gave up rebuilding my own carbs at that point. Less trouble and a better running motor. This is just my opinion, but in this day and age, you might be better off having a real carb professional redo the carb.

I have two cleaners, a sonic which is about 9x9x6 and a vapor degreaser which is about 3 gallon size. The sonic is way faster but both really clean well. The vapor one will clean so clean some metals can't be in contact after finished as they will stick together by cohesion. Picked both units up from the Texas Instruments salvage dock for 50 cents a pound after they lost the contract for clad metal sheets the U.S. Mint used to stamp coins from. DuPont(?) come up with a way to use an explosive to drive the layers together; cheaper and WAY faster.

I am using the Dawn liquid and water boiling technique described above. It is working. I then tried Simple Green. It does clean better but it turned the carb body a darker color. I'm going to continue with just the Dawn hoping it will undo whatever reaction took place. Anybody have an explanation of the discoloration? Maybe because I also had a few brass parts in there too?

Dennis

Most of the cleaners like Simple Green are slightly alkaline which can attack aluminum depending on the temperature and contact time.

I use a simple, very effective method similar to Jon's- - - - -a vibrator cleaner once used to polish firearm brass for reloading, plus a very hot solution of Trisodium Phosphate (concrete cleaner) and water. I adapted a big stainless steel stock pot with a glass lid to the vibrator and submerge the disassembled carburetor in the hot liquid- - - - -just below boiling, for several minutes at a time before changing to a fresh batch of hot liquid. Once the gunk is loosened up, I use massive volumes of high pressure air to clean the passageways.
Jerry

Because of the discoloration, I would not recommend this procedure. At least not to get it to leaving it on boil. Unless you were going to paint them anyway. I don't want to paint though. Googling brings up a lot of hits related to this type of thing when putting some aluminum pans in the dishwasher. Some remedies are diluted lemon juice or white vineger. I will test that. Jerry, does the TSP affect the finish?

Dennis

It darkens things a little, especially if the vibrator is left running overnight or for several hours. A couple of fills with the almost-boiling degreaser and 2-3 hours' running time each is a pretty good time frame. After softening the deposits with the TSP, I do a boiling water rinse and an immediate air cleaning. An instructor at the old GM training center in Memphis used to tell us "Put 55 gallons of air through every passage!" I use a needle-tipped blow gun and 100+ PSI of air pressure for that process.
Jerry

Thanks boss.

Dennis

Thank you all, now I know what I was doing wrong. I was soaking two times at 15 min. intervals, that explains why the cruddy Model "B" kept giving me problems. At that time I soda blasted the outside and inside. Guess I was lucky. Which of you guys posted a thread on straighteing model "B" Bowl and air horn. I need to make a copy. Doc.

Jon G

Here is a different type of Simple Green that is supposed to be safe for metal. Simple Green HD I have had good results cleaning carburetors using it with no discoloration.

I also use an ultrasonic cleaner.

Phillip

Good to know, Phillip. About what temp and time duration do you use?

Dennis

I just used Chem-Dip by Berryman, cleaned really well, just let it sit overnight and check how clean it gets, took several nights. If warmer, probably works better. Has a basket to suspend parts in. $27. for a gallon.

Ed

Strip down the carburetor into parts.
5 gallon bucket with hot water, dish washing liquid and a small amount of ammonia.
Let it soak for hours. Use different size soft bristle brushes to go after the 50 years of road grime, oil, leaking gas stains and dead bugs.
Hot water to rinse.
Use compressed air to clean out all you can.
Repeat the above. I'm done when my cleaning solution is not as nasty black as before.
I usually have dirt in the compact areas and some slightly rusty parts so I use my soda blaster.
Soda works well but stay away from (or tape up) the tiny idle, vent, jet passages.
Cleaning out the passages is much more difficult if there is packed-in soda.
Use compressed air to clean out all you can.
Hot water to rinse.
More compressed air to clean out.
Let dry.
Plastic pics and toothpicks to get to tiny spots.
Pieces of Scotch-Brite pad to lightly buff pump wells/piston walls.
Hot water to rinse.
More compressed air to clean out.
Ultrasonic cleaner, warm water, dish washing liquid and a small amount of ammonia.
Let run for 20 minutes
Take parts out, rotate and put back in the cleaner.
Repeat.
Hot water to rinse and rinse well.
More compressed air to clean out and dry parts.

My ultrasonic cleaner does a good job cleaning very fine brass inlet filters and pump well strainers but it takes longer over many cycles.

Dennis,

I defer to the experts on this subject. I was only trying to provide information about a relatively new type of Simple Green that is supposed to be safe for metal. I found it while doing research about different types of carburetor cleaners. The Simple Green HD link above actually has carburetor cleaning instructions on the link.

So please take all of this with a grain of salt:

Trying not to repeat too much of the great information above, I thoroughly clean the carburetor first, then I disassemble what can be disassembled easily (some parts are easier to get apart after an ultrasonic cycle). Then I start with Evapo-Rust in the cleaner and put in the Throttle Body Assembly and steel parts. Then I turn the cleaner up to 176 Degrees (Maximum) and go through as many 20-minute cycles as it takes to remove any rust and crud. I use a bucket with hot water and Dawn 4X dish-washing soap to clean in between cycles and afterwards.

After the Throttle Body Assembly and steel parts are clean, I empty the Evapo-Rust and then I add a 1-part mixture of Simple Green HD to 3-parts water to the cleaner. I use this mixture to clean the rest of the carburetor assembly, with the exception of the float. I am careful not to force any fittings off that do not want to come off. (Remember the Ultrasonic Cleaner is your friend.) I go through as many 20-minute cycles at 140 Degrees as it takes to clean the carburetor, remove any stuck fittings and remove the Power Piston if it is stuck. (Sometimes it may take a tiny bit of heat to remove the Power Piston and the brass fittings may still require a tiny bit of heat to remove as well.) If the fittings or power piston were stuck I run a few more cycles to make sure everything gets clean. Then I clean everything with the hot soapy water (in between cycles too) and then with clean hot water. Finally, as Jerry preaches, I blow copious amounts of air through every orifice, including those in the previously mentioned Throttle Body above.

This is what has worked for me and I hope I am not too far off base from what the experts have stated in the posts above.

I am sorry for the long-winded answer to a simple question. I did not know how to answer any other way.

Phillip

PS — Here is a link to the Ultrasonic Cleaner that I purchased on Amazon. In hindsight, I wish I had gotten the 6L.
3L Ultrasonic Cleaner

Thanks for the responses everyone. I have a ultrasonic cleaner coming tomorrow so will take you suggestions and should have better results. I'll report back. It will be after I get piping setup for the air compressor though. I'm slow so will be a few days.

Dennis

i recommend using napa brand carb cleaner that they sell in gallon jugs. if you have an ultrasonic cleaner, use that stuff in it. very safe and extremely effective, i used it on my Rochester B and it worked perfectly.