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Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 12
W
New Guy
New Guy
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Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 12
Hello,

I have a 1964 C10 with a 3 on the tree column [censored]. The adjustment C clamp is maxed out in its slots but I still have too much gap between the lower shift arm and the shift Tee. What do I need to rebuild or replace to fix the issue? I have looked at posts showing how to tear the column down and put it back together, but I don’t know where my extra free play is coming from.

Thanks,
Waylon
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Joined: May 2007
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H
Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters
Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters
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Posts: 1,718
I am hoping for a response to this post. I might have the same adjustment to make.


~ HB
1966 Chevrolet K-10 | Ghost: formerly Flappy Fenders | In the Stovebolt Gallery
1962 Chevrolet C10
1962 Suburban
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 70
E
'Bolter
'Bolter
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If proper adjustment cannot be made by adjusting the adjuster ring (lower bearing retainer) you may have to disassemble it to find the problem. Above the shift levers there is a spring and spacer, if I recall correctly the spacer is held in the proper position by tangs in the mast jacket. If that spacer is not in place it might make it impossible to adjust.


ESum
Joined: May 2007
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Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters
Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters
H Offline
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good to know. I will put that on the project list. Looking forward to pulling the column (not really).


~ HB
1966 Chevrolet K-10 | Ghost: formerly Flappy Fenders | In the Stovebolt Gallery
1962 Chevrolet C10
1962 Suburban
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,951
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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I wrote up a 4 part steering column DIY when I rebuilt my 63 column. Rebuilding one of these columns is a rewarding project.

Link to Steering Column DIY

If the adjustment “C” shaped piece is maxed out, then perhaps the 3 small tangs in the mast jacket are missing or worn. If the tangs look ok, then adding a shim ABOVE the stop ring (above the large spring) will help. That would move the shift tube down a bit more.

This pic shows the mast jacket tangs.
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New Guy
New Guy
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Thanks so much for the replies guys. Looks like I will have to tear the column apart and add a shim to it.

Lugnutz, I really enjoy the information you put out there for the rest of us. Very helpful!! I plan to follow your directions to add seatbelts.


This is my 64 C10. My great grandad bought it brand new in my home town. I have all of the paperwork from the sale.
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'Bolter
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Waylon,
I looked over my pictures again. The shim(s) would actually go BELOW the big spring. The thin ring above the spring is merely a stop point for the spring.
I’m not sure how I’d go about it. Perhaps making new tangs is a better idea. Please show us what solution you come up with.

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New Guy
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If you look closely at this picture showing the bottom of the column, you can see a thin shim or two between the bearing and the lower shift arm. There’s a tiny piece of blue shop towel stuck to them. I think I might have put those shims in there. I vaguely remember working on it but it has been about 30 years. Maybe more shim there is what is needed. I think the shims are flattened out soda cans that were cut into split washers/shims. I either did it myself or someone told me that’s what I needed to do. I hate having a poor memory.
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'Bolter
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Adding a shim at #4 will push the lower bearing down and allow for additional adjustment.
Adding a shim at 1, 2, or 3 will functionality draw the shift tube down inside the outer sleeve and also allow more lower bearing adjustment. You must decide if the problem is caused by worn or damaged sleeve tangs or other issues. Where to put the shim will become evident.
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'Bolter
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hi guys not trying to hijack the thread but im looking for the rubber boot that covers the hinge point where the column shift lever attaches to the column , does anyone know where it can be bought ? thanks in advance


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