The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Bypass oil filter hose fittings leaking

I just got my newly rebuilt ‘59 235 engine running and it was smoking a bit much. I discovered that both swivel fitting on the bypass oil filter hoses were leaking. I bought new hoses from Classic Parts and when I installed them they did not feel like they fit right. I tightened the fitting by hand then wrenched it tight or was I thought was tight but I could still wiggle the hose. I tightened it until the hose snugged up but it felt like I overtightened the fitting to get it to that point. Of course when I started the engine they both leaked. I retightened the fittings but could only get one fitting to stop. They are Gates hoses but I assume they were assembled in China using “Made in China”fittings.

Has anybody else had problems with these hoses.

I have not had that problem on Stovebolt engines, but, I have not done much/any "plumbing" on my Stovebolt engines in the last 10-15 years.

However, I have been recently installing compressed-air "plumbing" in my garage with new black-pipe and brass-fittings.

They leak-like "Hxxx". I am having to use teflon-tape AND Teflon-goop/paste to seal the fittings. I attribute this to Chinese-attempts to make USA thread sizes? It is very difficult to eliminate leaks above 90 psi.

Just eliminate the problem by installing rigid metal lines, not flex hoses. Since the oil filter mounts on the intake manifold on most stovebolt engines, there's no need for flex hoses. Just use the same copper/nickel tubing that's used for fuel and brake lines, 1/4" outside diameter, with 1/8" pipe to 1/4" inverted flare adapter fittings on both ends. Some people like to put a 360 degree "vibration loop" in each line by wrapping them around a big socket or a piece of pipe, but that's probably not really necessary.

The only reason for using flex lines was for quicker installation, as most of the bypass filters were dealer-installed add-ons after the car or truck was sold.
Jerry

Tim, I don’t think using both tape and goop is helping. Get a good pipe dope specifically made for pipe fittings. I suspect your fittings aren’t cut correctly. You should get a good two to three turns by hand before you tighten with a pipe wrench to insure you get a good seal.

Any hydraulic shop and a lot of the bigger NAPA stores can make up 3/16" or 1/4" flex lines in any length you want with swiveling 1/8" NPT male fittings on one or both ends that will attach to the engine block and the filter housing without adapters. They will be rated for a minimum of 3000 PSI without any leaks. It's usually called "single braid" line and it's used on all sorts of farm equipment and construction vehicles, etc.
Jerry

Just had NAPA make up such a flex line for a transmission cooler line.

If those NPT hose ends are Chinese made that could be the culprit for sure as I also had experienced recently. Seems to be a common occurance.
Regarding tapered pipe sealant, I use Loctite 569 liquid sealant instead of Teflon tape.
The sealant is easy to use and always provides a first time leak free joint... provided the tapered pipe threads are correctly machined.
Self locking once cured but easy to disassemble if needed and ease of thread clean up. Clear red tinted thick syrup when applied.
The only time I use Teflon tape is on potable water connections but only because I do not know what the Municipal code specifies.

Could you post a photo of the fittings and hose set up as installed. Lets take a look at what you have here.

I didn't have any problems with leaks at the hoses, I sometimes have problems getting the lid to seal after oil filter change.

I had hoses made at a local hydraulic shop. They crimped male end on the hoses. I use a swivel adapter at the can

1/8 pipe

I stopped by NAPA and picked up some 1/8” NPT swivels and although they seem like they tightened, I bench tested them with air and they still weeped, allot less but still not useable. The hose ends must be damaged also.

I like the solid tubing idea that HRL suggested. That way I can route them as I want, away from the exhaust manifold and away from the steering box. The inlet hose was too long and was rubbing the steering box. It probably would not have been a problem due to the amount of miles the truck will see, but it was still not right and that would bother me.

Dragsix, I couldn’t give you pictures if the installed components because I already disconnected the filter.

The pictures are in order:
1) The subject hoses
2) One if the offending fittings. Notice how the fitting end seems to be machined offset. When I tightened this one it actually cocked the fitting.
3) NAPA fitting

I bought the same lines and got the same result as you. They are now regulated into the useless category and awaiting the next purge of my parts supply. I even got a replacement for one and it too was junk. HRL's solution will work and is probably easiest and cheapest. In the past when this was called the lockheed loop. I got some real blank stares when I asked people to make me some.

I’ve made many vibration/expansion loops during my career hooking up gauges to fixed stanchions from pumps and valves. On steam piping this is very common. I’ve never heard them called Lockheed loops, but I do learn something everyday!

It think in this application it won’t be necessary, as there will be a few bends in the line in different directions which will take up any vibration or expansion/contractions.

I will be truthful, I don't like the look of those hoses at all. I don't think they are right. Chevys of the 40's has what looks to be the correct hoses and fittings. You might try calling them. They sell both the proper long hose and the shorter hose.

One advantage to using rigid tubing is that it won't be compromised by exhaust heat. Both those lines run pretty close to the exhaust pipe, and just a minor mistake in routing them can result in a heat-damaged line that can empty the engine of oil in just a couple of minutes. Some installations I've seen use 1/8" pipe nipples 6" long into the block ports to avoid getting the flex lines too close to the exhaust.
Jerry

As with most vendors, they won’t take back items that are not in their original packaging. I afraid I will be eating the cost of this one because I installed these, tossed out the plastic sleeve they came in and the garbage was picked up before I discovered the leaks.

Normally, I keep packaging awhile before I toss it out. Don’t know what I was thinking! Live and learn!

I’m going the rigid tubing route!

Yes HRL is spot on regarding using hard piping for that very reason, being the hoses are hovering around the exhaust plus it makes it more "factory".

No oil filter from factory

Period correct dealer installed would have hoses

Hard pipe needs some sort of loop or flex portion to compensate for vibration

Even the mouth-breather rookie the dealer service manager assigned to install oil filters could probably manage to bolt the filter housing to the intake manifold and attach a couple of flex lines without making any catastrophic mistakes. Bending and flaring hard lines and getting them routed correctly took a bit more skill and time to do. It was mostly economic concerns, not "better" practice to use flex lines. That also allowed for some leeway as to the position of the filter on the manifold runners- - - -ahead of or behind the carburetor, etc. I've even seen some large-canister filters mounted on the inner fender well or the firewall with longer flex lines on bigger rigs.
Jerry

I installed ridgid Cu-Ni tubing in place of the hoses. It took me a bit of time to get the bends right but it paid off. It looks great and the best part is, it doesn’t leak. Thanks to all who have given me suggestions!

In my 49-3100 I also installed rigid tubing but I used SS. No leaks and looks good.

Just a side note. It might take some searching and cost a little more but I always do my best to buy American. It seems to work out best in the end and it's the right thing to do. If I can't find it here the boys down under have nice stuff. $.02.

I agree to buy good ole “Made in USA” parts, but there getting harder and harder to find. The extra money spent is well worth the headaches avoided when using inferior “Made in China” crap!

What's better- - - -driving a Dodge Ram made in Mexico, a Crown Vic made in Canada, or a Nissan made in Smyrna Tennessee, a Volkswagen made in Chattanooga, or a Mercedes made in Alabama? How about a Cadillac assembled in Spring Hill Tennessee, with parts made in Japan? One of my former students who was an assembly line worker at Spring Hill got furloughed for two weeks when a tsunami that hit Japan interrupted the "just in time" delivery system and they ran out of some vital Cadillac parts. Ditto for lots of parts and tools with American brand names, made in some 3rd. world sweatshop by children under virtual slave labor conditions. Where are your "Craftsman" wrenches being made these days?
Jerry