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I am new here and am wondering if this is the best place for my questions or if there is some where else that someone can suggest.

I am looking at purchasing a 1942 Chevy pick up and would like some guidence with the best later model chassis parts to use for modifying this truck with V-8, overdrive auto trans, highway friendly rear end, PS, PB, A/C, tilt wheel, etc., etc.

My intentions are to replace my late model pick up that I use to tow my 24' enclosed trailer and race car.

I am not looking to have a all out hot rod but rather something dependable enough for a daily driver and powerful enough to pull the trailer. A 300 HP small block should be fine.

I see all kinds of different set ups for these old trucks such as Blazer chassis, Nova, Camaro, Mustang II, and Suburban front ends etc. I am just wondering which is the best/easiest/economical to use.

I am currently restoring a 46 chevy pickup. I have done a lot of research and have found that a S-10 pickup frame works really well for what you are wanting to do.

Here is the 46 that I am working on

Frank

I'd start by thinking what possible donor vehicle would you consider adequate to pull that trailer. Then narrow the field by looking at which one would best fit under the cab and fenders.

I think your challenge is that your stock track width is a little narrow when compared to any later model chassis that would seem up to the job of handling a 22 foot trailer.

The S-10 chassis is closest to the right fit track wise, but would you feel good pulling that trailer with an S-10?

If you are up to widening the front fenders and either widening the bed or the rear fenders you should look at a full size 3/4-ton or 1-ton Chevy or GMC pickup frame.

I'd lean toward something recent enough to have disk brakes on the front meaning '72 or newer, but finding one in good condition would be more important than exactly what year it was.

I think you need to find a Early COE and use a GM P30 Chassis. I don't beleive you can hide enough truck under 42 1/2 ton sheetmetal to ever safely handle a 24 ft. race car trailer.

Pulling isn't the main problem, but STOPPING is.I had a Chevy LUV with a small block 400 that I sometimes think could have pulled a D8 Cat with the brake set but the few times I pulled a loaded car trailer with it I swear it felt like it gained speed when serious braking was needed. Pulling your trailer is the factor that is special for you.

Thanks for the replies.

Yes I have been thinking about the size and structure as well, however My current 3/4 ton truck has a equalizer hitch and electric brake controller for the trailer brakes and when the equalizer hitch is adjusted properly it pulls just fine. I believe that this will be true with the type of truck I am looking for with the same hitch set up. I expect that I would have to beef up the frame of this truck at a minimum for the hitch and possibly more. I have not yet looked at this truck in person. Do the have a boxed or heavy channel frame?

Yes, disc brakes will most certainly need to be added.

I was wondering if a K/5 Blazer or Tahoe frame would be better? Will it fit under this truck? OR would it just be better to put some other type of front suspension and 10 or 12 bolt rear end under it and just beef up the existing factory frame?

I don't pull the trailer all that often and when I do I take it easy and am in no hurry to get anywhere. This truck will mainly get used for general purpose around town duty, so I really don't want a larger COE type truck.

I have also placed an ad in the trucks wanted section.

Those are designed around the full size pickup platform.

No full size pickup built after 1947 will really fit right under a '42. The Advance Design trucks are a little wider and the Task Force trucks are a lot wider. Nothing full-size has been narrower since.

My grandfather used to have a 1-ton '41 with a flatbed and duals on the rear. If you started with one of those and put disks on the front, along with a modern motor, transmission and rear axle, but keeping the original frame, that approach is more likely to look right when you finish.

I would encourage you to spend some time with a tape measure and the '42 and some modern trucks. There are ways to get where you want to be, but its going to take some work.

Find one of Grigg's posts and then follow his photo links. While his truck is an Advance Design rather than an Art Deco (like your '42) his approach is one you might emulate, even if you run a gas motor instead of a Diesel.

But more important is that his photos will give you an idea what is involved in this project.

I like OldSub's approach. I'm doing an S10 swap, and would not want to pull and enclosed trailer and race car with it. Start with a truck that has a graeter paylod rating, and will fit the body. I noticed my Dakota truck seems tougher than my S10 trucks. MV

Adding to that, it's no big deal to put the driveline of your choice into a strong truck chassis. Think it through, and work your way forward from the hitch. Make it sturdier than it has to be. Remember, the less distance from axle centerline to hitchball, the more stable it tends to be. Try not to put the ball any farther out back than it needs to be. mv

Hey Hemi guy, I think you really need to consider what the GVWR minmum requirements are to pull a 30'trailer with a car and tools in it are. That will put you on the right search path for specific vehicles that meet that requirement. Then it will be all the other tings the other responders have suggested.

Remeber, there are a lot of the rest of us on the road with you and we need you to be able to control and stop that rig too.

Hey Hemi guy, I think you really need to consider what the GVWR minmum requirements are to pull a 30'trailer with a car and tools in it are. That will put you on the right search path for specific vehicles that meet that requirement. Then it will be all the other tings the other responders have suggested.

Remeber, there are a lot of the rest of us on the road with you and we need you to be able to control and stop that rig too.