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Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 11
R
New Guy
New Guy
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Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 11
For improved road safety, I would really like to install a dual reservoir master cylinder. It looks like they are readily available with booster diaphragms and proportioning valves. Shopping eBay and other locations, I see a number of units available for my application. Which to get? I see several diaphragm diameters available, ranging 8" to 11". I assume larger diameter provides more brake assist, providing their are no mounting challenges. Are there any brands that are preferred or to be avoided? Brands I have seen include CPP, Suspension Pros, Leed Brakes. They range in price from about $150 to $300. Thanks

Last edited by Rose359; 10/06/2020 5:46 PM. Reason: added brands
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 37
M
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Posts: 37
I have a CPP cylinder, booster, and proportion valve. I like it, my only complaint is the instructions can be a little overly simplified. I'm currently running a 9" booster and it's adequate for my application.

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,098
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Apr 2005
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More information is needed such as the year, make, and model of the vehicle. Also if it has been converted to disc brakes or has the original drum brakes. All of this makes a difference because the early 60's trucks had a combined brake & clutch master cylinder which would require a different booster/master conversion. In addition, drum/drum brake booster/MC conversions don't require a proportioning valve.
None of the aforementioned are "brands", they generally provide kits assembled from Chinese sourced components for a specific application.
Fred


1956 3100 Pickup/Red/350/3sp OD/PS/Disc Brakes
1957 Bel Air Sport Coupe/Red/355/TH350/PS/Disc Brakes
2017 Silverado LT Single Cab SB/Black/5.3/6 Speed Trans
1947 Willys CJ2A w/F-Head engine
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New Guy
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My truck is a 1966 Chevrolet C10 LWB pickup with 16" steel wheels and stock drum brakes. The clutch is not hydraulic.

Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,951
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Sep 2011
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Here’s a DIY I made. Same procedure would be used but with a drum/drum master cylinder. I have this same setup on 2 trucks. Works great and affordable. One thing I don’t mention in the DIY is that the little rod sticking out of the front of the booster needs to be properly adjusted. If adjusted too long, it will prevent the MC plunger from returning to the home position. Happened to me.
The booster I show in the DIY will allow you to keep a factory air cleaner on an inline 230ci or 250ci.
DIY Brake booster
Attachments

Last edited by Lugnutz; 10/07/2020 7:17 PM.
Joined: Jun 2020
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Wrench Fetcher
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Originally Posted by Rose359
My truck is a 1966 Chevrolet C10 LWB pickup with 16" steel wheels and stock drum brakes. The clutch is not hydraulic.

The CPP kit will be a close to a bolt on option and they have drum/drum applications. If you're so inclined they also sell prebent stainless lines to make installation easier. As Lugnutz said the rod out of the booster needs to be properly adjusted, BUT the CPP kit has this all taken into account. Don't forget to hook the pushrod into the pedal an inch below the factory hole. I didn't and suffered brake lockup at highway speeds.

Joined: Aug 2020
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New Guy
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Thanks for all of that; I will give it a look. My engine is a 292 with a stock air cleaner, which will sit a little higher. It seems it would still clear the master cylinder.


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