* New gasket. * Clean the bolt and use a small amount of sealant on the threads. Read the warning about applying sealant. Also Permatex in 1953 is different than today. I would think you would not use sealant that hardens. * Torque to 85-95 ft-lbs (85ft-lb=115.25Nm).
See the attachments. Hope this helps.
Tschüß
Last edited by buoymaker; 09/22/202011:12 AM.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
I think we answered question #1 for you a while ago. Wheel bearing retaining nuts don't get torqued. Here's a link to the Shop Manual. Look on Page 4-13 for how to adjust wheel bearings. As far as a gasket, if you have brown paper bags in Germany, use one of those, holding it against the wheel hub and tap with a small hammer around the inner and outer diameters and around the holes to cut your own gasket. They're probably commercially available at a driveline shop also, or you can buy bulk gasket material (get the thinnest available), and use a hammer to cut your own from that.
[on edit] Here's a truck shop near you. Found on Google Maps. Gassmann GMBH Alte Bundesstraße 48, 37120 Bovenden, Germany
Last edited by klhansen; 09/22/20206:27 PM. Reason: Added driveline shop location
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
The attached illustration is for a 1-1/2 ton truck. I could not find an illustration for a 3/4 ton that includes the axles.
The gasket is a problem. I believe the part number is found in section 5.811 and my GUESS is that the GM part number is 3680995. This may be a spacer and a gasket (soft alloy metal). I would not use regular gasket material here. Hopefully someone in this forum may have some experience that they can share. You may have to reuse the old gasket/spacer. This is not the same paper gasket that goes between the axle flange and brake drum. Take a picture of your gasket/spacer and post it.
Last edited by buoymaker; 09/22/20206:59 PM.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
About the gasket I found one at rockauto.com: https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/mahle,J17829,axle+shaft+flange+gasket,1760 If ordered two gaskets. Wolfgang
The rockauto description says the gaskets are paper. The Mahle website (attachment) crosses 3680995 over to their part number J17829.
To be safe, make sure your old gaskets are the same material and roughly the same thickness. You don't want rear axle oil leaking onto your brake shoes and drum.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
You don't want rear axle oil leaking onto your brake shoes and drum.
That won't be a problem. The axle flange is outboard of the brake drum by quite a bit. Any leakage will be on to the wheel, not inside the brake drum.
As far as thickness, that's not critical. The only thing that would change is the depth of insertion of the axle splines into the side gears. It would take a really thick gasket to make that too shallow to be a problem.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
