I am getting less than a thimble of antifreeze dripping on the floor under my 1959 Chevy PU. I have almost traced the leak to the source but... It comes down from the back of the head and above the bell housing. It runs down the right side of the bell housing and into the lip of the flywheel inspection cover and out the little hole. Initially I thought it was a freeze plug but they are lower than the leak. All I can identify above the bell housing is the head, which could have a crack. Any ideas from the group? I will say I flushed the block and replaced the radiator and had MUCH rust. I then used a rust melter in the block for 3 days and now no rust. Maybe I loosened up an old leak.
Try re-torqueing the head. It can't hurt, and it just might help. Loosen the bolts about 1/2 turn one at a time, following the factory torque sequence, and retighten them. You're probably headed for a head gasket change, but it never hurts to make one last stab at a quick fix. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
There are some core plugs (freeze plugs) behind the manifolds that can leak sometimes & run down the back of the engine. A pressure test may help locate it. George
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super In the Gallery Forum
If it's not leaking at the head and/or head gasket, it could be the rear freeze plug. It's covered by the bell housing. Picture borrowed from Deve's website.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
Also something to consider I have a small coolant leak in one of my 235s that’s right in the middle of a flat spot on the side of the block, not even at a seam or ridge in the casting So a defective block is possible too Just like 59rebuild my leak was only noticeable after I cleaned the rust out the block, before that it was dry (oily and dirty tho). -s
I sealed a small crack/leak with epoxy cement/glue in the same location on my Suburban’s 1960 261 block over 15 years ago (based a recommendation/suggestion posted here).
What is the condition of this engine in terms of how long before it may need an overhaul? If its high miles (over 60-70k miles for these engines most of the time), add some stop leak in it to buy you some time until a rebuild is in order. I did that on well worn, but great running 216 which had a 5 inch crack in the water jacket by the petcock drain. It still had a bit of a weep, but did not leave a puddle. I drove it for 20,000 miles after that with no issues.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
I really do not know though it runs very well, no strange noises, good power. I bought it and restored with partial cab/engine on frame. The only thing I notice is moisture out the exhaust when it first starts up which I figured was due to being cold and moisture had settled in the ehaust.
If it's not leaking at the head and/or head gasket, it could be the rear freeze plug. It's covered by the bell housing. Picture borrowed from Deve's website.
My leak is above the bell housing and dripping down the side, into the flywheel inspection cover.
Try re-torqueing the head. It can't hurt, and it just might help. Loosen the bolts about 1/2 turn one at a time, following the factory torque sequence, and retighten them. You're probably headed for a head gasket change, but it never hurts to make one last stab at a quick fix. Jerry
There are some core plugs (freeze plugs) behind the manifolds that can leak sometimes & run down the back of the engine. A pressure test may help locate it. George
I'll check the pressure. These plugs are different than those behind the bell housing, correct?
