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#1377494 09/18/2020 5:34 AM
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I've googled and googled but can't find any examples of a lumber rack on a 47-55 3600. I occasionally need to carry a long board or two and it would be nice to have. Would the stake pockets (18 gauge I think) take the stress? Or would they get wallered out?

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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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It would depend on the load. The bedsides and pockets are 16 gauge, BTW so are a bit stouter. The way they get wallered out is when uprights are loose. If they're bolted in, it would probably be fine for carrying a few long boards.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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I thought about it too when I had my log bed, I was thinking of something out of a thin wall squaretube to go across to each pocket, be able to clamp other attachments to as well


1950 Chevy 3800
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I can easily cobble something together for my occasional (and light) loads. Square tube, cutoff saw, welder and a Saturday and all done. I was hoping there was an example floating around of something classy though, since my work tends to the utilitarian style . . . ;-P

As per Kevin's comment above: is it better to wrap the square tube uprights in wood where they go into the stake pockets? Or just steel on steel as snug a fit as one can go? I think the wood option would risk the least damage.

Probably make an upright frame for the front and rear of the bed that slide into the stake pockets, and then lateral pieces running fore and aft that can be quickly removed with cotter pins, and that should be enough for 100 lbs of 12-14' lumber even without cantilevered support over the cab.

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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Originally Posted by PapaDisco
As per Kevin's comment above: is it better to wrap the square tube uprights in wood where they go into the stake pockets? Or just steel on steel as snug a fit as one can go? I think the wood option would risk the least damage.
IMO, Steel on steel would be better, as a wood upright in the stake pocket would eventually loosen up, There's a set of thru holes above the stop in each pocket for a bolt, and unless you put a tube thru your steel upright, tightening a bolt thru it will crush both the pocket and the tube a bit.
The issue though is getting a tight fit in the pocket, which would be easier with wood than steel.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
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Steel or aluminum would be best, but I remember my Dad and later myself hauling a lot of eave spout, gas pipe and lumber as well on racks made with two by four uprights with a two by four crosspiece bolted together. Ours stayed on until they rotted, but they are easy to put on and off. Plus, it would give you an "old school" look. Back in the day the only store bought racks I remember seeing were on trucks with store bought side boxes. John

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We resto rodded a 52 US Forest Service Suburban that had a full length rack. They went for utility rather than looks as the braces from rack to roof were just screwed on with hex head metal screws but the front of rack struts to bumper brace bolts were well done. This front set up would work for a pickup also if one needed a LONG rack.


Evan
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If they had made racks in 1949, I'm guessing they would have used cast parts for the cross members, maybe an entire cast iron piece for the cross members. Hmmmmm . . .


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