The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Re: What did you get done on your 'Bolt today?

Another ideal day for painting. Currently 75F.
Now the first batch of stuff that I shot primer on are black. Used Rustoleum Professional Semi-gloss Black. Went on pretty nicely. Waiting for paint to dry (again).

Just a heads up. I usually dont read nuttin on anything till i realize i screwed it up. But some spray paint likes 50 degrees ideally. Not sure what your may be, but take a look.

I did read the label. It can be applied from 32F (that surprised me) up to 90F. So I should be good to go. This stuff takes a while to dry. Was still a bit tacky after an hour.

Wow. Big spread. Seems like your onthe right track.

Kevin,

Just so you know, I'm sending up all my sheet metal for you to paint for me. What you have done so far is looking great.

Rob

Thanks Rob, but I don't think you want to do that. Have you checked into freight up here and back? And besides, those were just inner fenders and such. And I didn't show you up close. Everything looks good from 50 feet away.

Used black sand blaster on my side mount spare tire assembly. The paint under the black which I did 44 years did not have the original color. Is this item painted the same color as the truck or black. Doc.

Don't know for sure, but I suspect bolt on accessories like your spare mount were painted black. Sounds like me - not being able to remember.

I got my last fender, RF, prepped and primered today. The sandblasting revealed a couple pinholes in some of my weld repairs. Zapped them and finshed them and shot the primer on. it was another bluebird day, weather-wise.

Door windows/wing windows installed in my 54!! What a PITA... drivers side works great, passenger side binds up a little bit and gets hard to roll up/down - need to look into that some more

Got the driver's side cab corner welded in today

Got a reminder of the "measure twice - cut once" axiom. Pic is upside down because the cab is also upside down.
Fortunately I didn't go to far before I realized I had screwed up. Was able to weld up the extra cut. 10 years from now, no one will remember I messed up.

Installed the newly acquired, original heater hose clamp that was missing since I bought the truck in ‘08. I’ve had the hoses zip tied to the fender support rod all this time. Finally decided to do it the right way. The hoses laid nicely in the channel on the inner fender, and I was able to put a small lock washer on the back side to keep everything snug. I think it turned out nicely.
It was a nice way to start my morning before church service starts online.

Finished the install of the front tube shocks on the '47, installed the rebuilt starter, and changed the transmission oil. The starter stopped a few months ago just after I had done a valve adjustment. So the truck sat for several months while I was doing too many non-truck-related activities. Once I got the starter out, rebuilt, and reinstalled, the truck fired up on the 3rd try and runs smoother than before the valve adjustment.

Spent part of the afternoon working on the old truck. Started out by adding a quart of oil, then one thing lead to another.....

1. Fixed a leak on my Mico brand emergency brake system
2. Tightened all the screws on the two door panels
3. Tightened all the screws around the windshield trim
4. Tightened the set screws on both door handles and both window cranks
5. Tightened the two big Phillips screws on the 3-speed shifter handle clamp. They were real loose!
6. Tightened the two screws on the interior light
7. Adjusted and tightened the door striker plates
8. Tightened both sun visor mounting brackets
9. Tightened the glove box hinges
10. Put a full charge on the 6 volt battery

I was amazed at how many screws were really loose!

My weekend was spent prepping my frame and then painting it with Rust Bullet. Found out that I'm SOOOOOO not a pro when it comes to spray guns.

Re-installed my taillights, and got them working again... need to figure out why my hazard lights aren't working, but it has brake lights and turn signals which are the most important!

Received new circuit board for the instrument panel today. Tomorrow is get that on, double check some wiring, and hopefully turn the key for the first time in 3 months. If that works out as it should...fingers crossed, finish the floor and get the seat in.
Apparently it is frowned upon sitting on a milk crate....

Got the break-in oil poured in this morning, gonna cycle it through the next few days as I finish getting everything else set up (carb/linkage, exhaust, run through and double check wiring, etc) before the first fire up of the rebuilt 292

My son’s 1968 C10 won’t see paint for a loooong time. It will likely be outside in the weather a lot too.
Today I chipped out the 52 year old cab drip rail sealer with a wood chisel. Glad I did too! As I suspected, the old seam sealer was allowing water to cause rust. Thankfully there were no holes.
I cleaned it up with a wire brush and applied POR15. I’ll let it cure for a few days and then add new seam sealer. See pics.

Good work Lugnutz. Haven’t ever heard of anyone doing that chore or talking about the need to inspect your roof seam to see if it needs attention. I learned something new today. Thanks!

The 1960-66 trucks have a drip rail that goes around the entire roof with only a small hole for drainage. Not only does the hole get plugged up, but it’s not even at the lowest section of the roof!
I used the wood chisel and mallet on my 1965 too. My 1963 drip rail was cleaned out when I bought it. I sealed the 1963 drip rail with a 3M product that is paintable.

Installed a new turn signal switch today. My turn signals stopped working last Sunday and, after doing several checks, determined that the switch was faulty. Also, cleaned up some of the wiring under the dash.

Drove the truck up on the new ramps I bought at the Fredericksburg swap meet last year intending to replace some heavy gauge wire that has been wrapped around one of the shifter pivot points since I’ve owned the truck. I was planning on replacing it with a shiny new hitch pin clip I bought, but turns out the PO put the wire there to act as a shim. The wire takes out most of the slop that’s in that joint, so I left it alone. My shifter problems are bad enough without me making ‘em worse!

While I was under the truck I replaced 9 old zerk fittings with the new stainless steel zerks I bought at Tractor Supply. Grabbed the grease gun and went to work greasing all the joints. All but one fitting took the grease. That one must be plugged up behind the zerk.

Two stainless bolts had worn through the original side rails in the bed, so I put some large stainless washers behind them and with my neighbor putting his thumb on their heads I tightened them back down. Spent another couple of hours tightening all the other bed bolts and wiping down the underside. Lots of oil dripping out of that old, loose 216 with 101K miles on it!

It was a good day spent working on the old truck. Cheaper than a therapist, and much more effective.

Did a little work with a couple of rattle cans (Rust-oleum metallic gold and ColorPlace white). The white is just terrible paint, I'm always happy with Rust-oleum stuff. My wife picked the colors/paint and it came out better than expected. I would do more but it's over 103 outside.

Removed the grain bed from my GMC 370.

Rear wheel cylinders and brake lines on rear axle. I was wirering up a trailer hitch harness and noticed dampness at the bottom of l/r backing plate. So i got real close and tried to smell it to see what it was. I just put rear seals and bearings in 1000 miles ago, so was hoping it wasnt that. I couldn't really smell anything, then noticed a touch of wetness on the rim. Wiped it off, along with the paint....lolol....only fluid that'll do that is brakefluid. Bingo. We have a winner. Brakes never felt good anyhow. I guess i know why now. Both were only working on one side of the cylinder.

Began welding up my exhaust pipes... running from Tom Lowe's dual exhaust manifolds on my 292... few more weeks and this thing will HOPEFULLY FINALLY be on the road a bit!

Removed the SM 420 trans in preparation for installing NP 540 series trans. in my 370.

Ed

Put a S10 T5 in my 66 C10 on Saturday. I modified the shifter yesterday. I'm having the driveshaft modified today. I hope to have it together by the weekend for a test drive.

Put newly rebuilt model "B" on 54-3100. perfect. Runs but back fires. about 1/2 gallon of white gas on barn floor. Glass fuel bowl gasket bad. Would this cause the backfire? Hotrodlincoln, tc, Carbking etc. Doc. PS white gas does not grow on trees. Some of our WAWA and Shell stations are starting to sell. Our Stihl dealers here will not warranty any of their new products if gasoline with ethyl is used. About time.

Doc.,

Do you mean alcohol?

Ed

No he means non ethanol.

Last couple of days have been spent fitting and welding right side inner, outer and inner-to-outer cowl panels. Starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel on the cab. After these are completed, I need to weld in the gas tank supports. Then need to primer and coat the floor of the cab and get it off the rotisserie and on to a pallet with casters.

Ed, yes. If any brand of gasoline has ethyl, methyl or any alcohol additive Stihl will not warranty their products in two of their dealerships here. Ed

Some Toro mower dealers tell you the same (they are wrong - up to 10% is allowed). But, they do state that you have to run their mowers until they gas is gone (on many of their mowers).

No more Toros's for me (I sold the three that I had).

Made a bracket to hold the throttle cable connecting to the universal bellcrank (original pedal), and carb

Have been procrastinating on doing the small stuff...Spent the day cleaning small parts...took all day and have just a few baggies of shiny clean parts to show for it. Wore out the wire wheel on my bench grinder, even after soaking them in parts cleaner!!

Getting very close to primer on the rest of the cab. Today I touched up some welds on the floor patches, welded inner cowl panels, ground those welds, and got part of one tank mount welded in. Still need to weld in windlace retainer pieces (which may be an experience, since they're thin metal). I'm thinking drill some holes and do some mini plug welds. We'll see how it goes.
No pics today, busy crawling in and out of the cab which I supported level with the rotisserie still attached. Getting my fat arse in and out was interesting.

Kevin,

You can work with me anytime. I just wish I’d had that body shop to stretch out in.

Body Shop?? What body shop?
I'm working out of a single car garage. It won't even fit my F250 daily driver.

Welding on the windlace retainers went pretty well. Just need to grind off a couple of weld beads that got a little too big.

Kevin, I read your post about welding in those thin windlace retainers and it bought me back to an internal discussion with myself how I wished I purchased a TIG welder instead of the MIG. I've spent some time correcting my mig errors. Glad you were successful, gives me hope.