The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay 37 216 converting to 12v alternator

yes the decision is to upgrade this one. The old generator, though it spins fine, looks like a unworking fire hazard with cloth insulation frayed to missing, cutout missing its cover, (cutout predates and was precursor to external regulators) replacement or rebuilding cost as well as the 6 volt thing to start with. 12v halogen headlight reflectors also look desirable etc. That being said, I've read a lot of the debate; one wire, three wire etc. It appears internal regulators came to be around 1973 as a BAT terminal on the rear and a side two prong plug. da plug? Logic say this must be the more desired conversion (according to some) 3 wire setup. It appears I can get a AC DELCO remanufactured all the way up to 63 amp on RockAuto for between $40-$50 but I have not seen a single pully unit with 5/8" pully. wondering if there was going to be a question..? #1. Does anyone know of a year and model that is a fit without having to buy and swap out the pully. One of our vintage vendors offers the alternator with a 3/8 pully at $140 and the 5/8 pully separately for $30! #2 does someone have a basic wiring diagram (pdf or jpeg) that shows the 3 wire hookup. I am rewiring the entire truck 12 circuits with fuses and relays. the old cloth harness (what still exists) is about in the same condition as the 6v generator. #3 I have a good 12v coil for the switch to 12v what is a good fit for a condenser under the cap? 55-57 235 work? or does it even need to be changed over? thanks, Larry

The wide belt pulley is available on Ebay- - - - -lots of farm tractors have been converted to GM internal regulator alternator charging systems, and 5/8" pulleys for Ford, Massey-Ferguson, Farmall, etc. are a bolt-on swap.

Just looked- - - -there are several alternators with 5/8" pulleys already installed for under $100.00. Pulleys are in the $12.00-$20.00 range. Search "5/8" alternator pulley".
Jerry

Thanks for pulley info Jerry. how about question #3? do I need to change out the condenser under the distributor cap or is there a difference between 6v and 12v?

Points and condensers don't care what voltage the ignition system runs, but the choice of coils is vitally important. You'll need to run a "12 volt- - - -non-resistance" coil, and a ceramic ballast resistor to drop the voltage to the coil to approximately 9 volts during normal running. You will need to swap the foot start switch on the starter for one for a 1955-up 12 volt starter, the one with a small side terminal on it. Rock Auto has that switch in stock. Run a wire from the side of the starter switch to the + terminal of the coil to bypass the resistor during starting and allow full battery voltage to be applied to the coil. Your 6V 216 starter will work fine on 12 volts- - - - -just limit cranking time to 15 seconds or so. A well-tuned engine with a good fuel pump and carburetor will start with 5 seconds or less of cranking (sometimes a lot less)!
Jerry

Agree with above advice. Buy the Delco 10si alternator. Swap pulley. Flaps may do it for you. It is a 30 second job with an impact driver. The wiring is as described with a ballast resistor wired to externally resisted coil pos, and starter button side terminal also wired to coil pos.

Alternator wiring should be done 3 wire style. Alternator terminal 2 is wired to alternator Batt stud. Alternator terminal 1 is wired to an idiot light/charge indicator/12V bulb...... thru the bulb to ignition switch "ON".

Other considerations are: wiring for ammeter or volt meter and assume you know all the other things you need to do per our tip section.

"Does anyone know of a year and model that is a fit without having to buy and swap out the pully."

37 GC,

Here's what worked on my '52 Ford 8N tractor that retains the original 6 volt starter.

1. A 1970 Toyota alternator with the original 5/8" pulley.
2. A 1960-69 Mopar voltage regulator (Wells VR 706, Standard VR-101, Niehoff AL-169).

These 2 transplanted items have worked perfectly together for about 20 years requiring only machining a simple aluminum alternator mount that attaches to the original Ford generator mount and mounting the Mopar voltage regulator on the back side of the dash. It probably sounds too simple to be true but it works.

I still have the wiring diagram if you don't mind the simple, inexpensive approach.

Another option you have is a James Peterson voltage regulator that fits inside your '37 generator. I have one of those in my original '36 Chevy PU generator and it works great!

Thanks guys, always appreciative of the input. Like they say, two minds are better than one unless they are both
half wits to start with! LOL I'm thinking i'll stick with a '73-up built in regulator Delco alternator and change our the pulley. I have pullers, I was just hoping to save the time and money as I already have the experience. With Jerry's blessing on the condensor, I got to the point of being ready; clean plugs, new wires and cap, oil in the cylinders, valve cover off, oiled top end, gravity fed gas suppy to avoid questionable fuel pump, new fan belt, NKG 12V coil with firewall mounted ceramic balast. First crank, Poof of blue smoke, second snap of the starter the old '39 fired right up and ran for about 20 seconds. Third, ran until my funnel ran dry, set the idle speed some, oil pressure stayed around 12-13, checked for oiling to top end, tightened oil filter line that had been replaced but was leaking, no knocks, bangs, water leaks, or even blue smoke!!! I was expecting to help the whole neighborhood with the mosquitoes. ran it long enough for the new thermostat to begin to open and circulate. SHOCK smooth and loud with nothing past the manifold. Just hope I dont hear knocks or other bad things after It is quieted down...Just MADE my weekend!! Now I don't feel bad about spending some more money on it as the 216 seems fine.