The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Removing Harmonic Balancer

I have a 1961 261. The 1960 261 shop manual shows the first picture which I assume has a large bolt screwed in and, when the bolt meets the crank (or gear?), continued turning backs the balancer out.

My balancer (2nd picture) is different and I assume it needs the puller as shown in my 1948 shop manual. Perhaps the engine builder used an old-style balancer.

So, I need the puller, right? Do you think the removal can be done while in the truck. I want to start the 261 w/o the balancer to see if a bad noise goes away.

Edit. That frame piece is arced up. It's screaming "Pull me now."

Thanks!!

Your picture from the shop manual actually shows a puller bolted to the front of the balancer/pulley (with one of the bolts shown toward the upper right.) It's a disc type puller and the bolt in the center is the pusher on the nose of the crankshaft. Your balancer needs a puller as well.

You may be able to pull yours, but a disc type puller may take up some of the room in the crossmember for the damper to come off. But you could might be able to use a beam type puller (two bolts on either side of a beam with the pusher bolt in the center) IF there's enough room to get the damper off the crank nose before it hits the crossmember.

Ah. The balancer has no threads but the configuration of the puller (disk vs. extended arms) is the difference. I might have to remove the front clip, as Dave strongly suggests, and go at it but I'd like to take 1 step at a time.

You're going to need about 1 1/2" of room ahead of the damper so the balancer snout can clear the crankshaft. BTW, that's one of the worst-looking front motor mounts I've seen in a long time- - - -I'm wondering if it has sagged enough to let the balancer rub the crossmember?
Jerry

You can run the engine with the front clip removed, just don’t run it forever without the radiator.

Looking at his second pic again, that's the radiator support, not the crossmember. Looks like the bottom of the balancer pulley is above the top of the crossmember to me. Looks like Wally has the single mount for the radiator support as opposed to the two straddling the centerline.

And there's no shiny scraped region around the damper. Here's another very slightly expanded photo.

Hy Wally/Montana and guys, there should be 3/8" N.C. threads down deep in the two holes directly across from one another in the balancer face, you could try searching for them with a 3/8" N.C. start tap, the holes may be full of dirt.

I'll clean the holes out. Are those 2 dimples made on the right to remove metal and balance the balancer itself? My engine guy put teensie dimples like that with a 1/8" drill to balance the flywheel. I was impressed with that. Thanks.

Balancer puller is attached but the engine (installed in truck) turns when I turn the puller bolt. I have it in granny gear and the engine still turns. How can I stop this? I don't have an impact wrench which would probably do the trick.

A block of wood in the bell housing wedging up against the flywheel? In granny gear and Mrs. Wally pressing the brake pedal?

Thanks!!

You have a better mechanical advantage in high gear.
I would suggest Mrs. Wally and a pry bar in the starter teeth on the flywheel.

Bingo, Dave. High gear worked along with a cheater pipe.

What's the sign of a bad harmonic balancer? The pulley and balancer itself are solid as a rock. No separation, wobble, etc.

Later, I'll start it up for a few seconds making sure I get to the 1300 RPM and more to see if the sound is still there. There's no water or radiator but that should be OK, right?

For a very short time.🛠

The rubber cushion in these balancers is sandwiched between the hub, pulley, and front plate, then riveted together. In the 40 plus years I have worked on these I have never seen one fail.
It is common for them to come loose on the crank and make noise, but it sounds like that is not your problem.

Can’t wait to hear about the test run without the balancer.

Ran it for 3-4 seconds. Noise still there upon revving to beyond 1300 RPM like before.

Next step, I guess is, remove timing gear cover which , I understand, involves dropping oil pan because there are a couple bolts in there. I've seen the Tech Tip to improve that situation.

Thanks! Any more advice will be greatly appreciated.

I've got one I can send you if you like!

I will have to just imagine it

Put in direct, harder to turn there, no gear reduction.

Ed

On the harmonic balancer on the 1954 248 engine, what is holding it in place?
I do not see any bolt into the crank?
I'll need to replace the balancer/pulley when I get the engine rebuilt.

Hy RP14, welcome, the balancers on these engines are held in place by an interference or press fit. If you are going to rebuild an engine, I would highly recommend drilling and tapping the front of the crankshaft with a 7/16" N.F. tap (the same size and thread as the balancer retaining bolt on the small block Chevrolet V8 engines) Just a tip from here on out, when you place your questions in with someone elses question, you may not get quick responses, start your own subject to get your questions noticed, hope that helps.

Just a note to anyone who is reading this and thinking about pulling their own HB be careful with the puller yoke bolts (the ones that thrad into the HB. The holes go all the way through so be carefull you don't go too far and damage the timing gear cover.

Or am I the only one who's dumb enough to have learned that the hard way??

Nope, lol. I am also in that distinguished class of graduates.

Imagine no more!
1st photo is setting flat, 2nd I'm lifting one side to better show slack between pulley rivets.

Had a bit of a wobble.

Someone must have run with a very tight belt to put enough pressure on the pulley to do that.

Well Dave, it's like Paul Harvey, now the rest of the story.
Many years back on a road trip ol' blue developed this rattle noise, pulley slightly loose on hub.
Went to small farm town flaps and got a later g.m. fuel sender o ring that fit tight. Noise gone, home after 2 days driving no noise. Got on the list for winter replacement, life messed with list. Ran longer that I'm willing to admit before it jogged my memory & got replaced.

Btw Dave, thank you for all work you have put into your Blog!

John and Dragsix, oh no I would never do that twice! Honest.

I'll raise my had as well, wrenching job in h.s., frt seal replacement job. Boss gave me shorter bolts & sent me out back to pull the cover off a core. Gave me the bonus knowledge of Stovebolt timing cover removal.

I almost did that, but caught myself before disaster struck, then placed a couple of pieces of steel plate between the ends of the bolts ends and the cover to spread out the force and eased the HB right off with nary a mark on the timing cover.