The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Rebuild 235 motor ID help

Hey all Putting together my '51 3600 3/4 ton, stock 6V and all. But the motor I can tell is a 235 by the valve cover and the ID numbers on the distributor side. See Photos but it has now a 'rebuild plate' where the ID numbers are. Without taking off the plate I see: Motor runs and starts easy and smooth now, and generates about 30# oil pressure at idle.

Block by the Starter says: CON4 B92
By the distributer: F (stainless nail) I2J
Tag: Rebuilt Engine Power Pac D 2326

Any thoughts on this? Should I drill grind off the stainless pin and see under the tag?
Thanks -Clem

Block casting date: B 9 2
February 9th 1962

Find and post the following codes:
- Engine casting code
- Engine date casting code
- Head casting code
- Head date casting code

As you recognize, you have a professionally rebuilt engine.

Hy tclederman and guys with the pvc stuff maybe the casting date could be 1962? Just a thought

Full pressure 235's didn't exist in 1952- - - -more likely it's a 1962 production engine. Where does the water pump sit- - - -inline with the radiator, or a couple of inches low? How about the side cover? Does it stop below the spark plugs, or go all the way to the valve cover? A 1952 year 235 would be a spray-oiler with Babbit connecting rods, and it would be lucky to have 10 pounds of oil pressure at hot idle.
Jerry

Edit: I just noticed a PCV system- - - -start looking for captain's bars above the starter and in the middle of the block on the driver's side- - - -you just might have a 261 there! Are there a couple of big pipe plugs (1/2" NPT) on the driver's side down near the oil pan rail?

Thanks for catching my typo error, Jerry - I will edit/correct my post.

There's just enough of the engine code there to help ID this engine...

F = Flint
xx = month (can't see due to rivet)
12 = Day
J = 235 from a 1/2-ton to 1-ton truck w/ standard manual transmission

The "J" code was used from 1957 thru 1962.

Mike B

Ace Skiver: Thanks for recognizing it's cast in '62 ! Getting closer
With regards to the Power-pac tag, There are some findings on a google search, they are a motor rebuild shop in the LA area in the 60s, now closed. Shop was called Automotive Engineering and they did Chevy, Mopar and fords. Most felt they did good work.

Jerry:
Where does the water pump sit- - - -inline with the radiator, or a couple of inches low? See photos, but on top hose inlet goes into front of head, with btm hose radiator outlet is 5" lower than waterpump (photos)
How about the side cover? Does it stop below the spark plugs, or go all the way to the valve cover? Jerry ends below the plugs
A 1952 year 235 would be a spray-oiler with Babbit connecting rods, and it would be lucky to have 10 pounds of oil pressure at hot idle. I have nearly 30# pressure
Edit: I just noticed a PCV system- - - -
start looking for captain's bars above the starter and in the middle of the block on the driver's side- - - -you just might have a 261 there! Jerry, no captains bars sadly, and I dont feel them under the manifolds
Are there a couple of big pipe plugs (1/2" NPT) on the driver's side down near the oil pan rail? Jerry, there are, see photos- the outlets for the AC Delco oil filter on the firewall

Thanks all for your thoughts on this, As my understanding, it's prob a 1962 motor We know it's from Flint originally The truck was assembled in Oakland in '51. The motor was rebuilt by Automotive Engineering in LA sometimes in the 60s. Any other thoughts anyone.
-Clem

More photos

You were asking about a PVC system, when I got it, it had a homeowner cut out in the top of the valve cover, and fuel line to the backside of the intake maniford into a brass Y that was screwed into a welded fitting in the manifold, which caused a bad intake leak obviously and the motor barely started or ran under acceleration, I've removed all this and put a temp brass plumbing fitting in it till later. Any thoughts?
-Clem

California at one time use to require a retro fit pvc system. I have seen that same pvc set up on a couple of other of the era California Vehicles. So I don’t think it was necessarily cobbled together.

The original PCV setup that came from Chevrolet, mostly on big trucks, is shown in the pictures (1954/55 261). Follow the path through the air cleaner, valve cover, engine and out the draft tube. From there through the PC valve, metal tube (not a hose) then into the intake.

A later version (California System?) removes the draft tube and replaces with a plug. The hose that went to the draft tube is now connected to the opposite end of the valve cover. The path is now air cleaner, valve cover, PC valve then intake. Which system is best? Both remove blow-by gasses. If you live in California you had/have to follow the state requirements.

Since you have a 1962 engine in a 1951 truck, originality is probably not a major concern. Looking at your pictures, I noticed that the threaded PC valve is missing on the road draft tube, the valve cover has a chrome (vented?) oil fill and an elbow that looks like the one from a AC PCV kit or original GM mounted on the valve cover. If it was my truck, I would change out the oil fill to one that's not vented and has a new gasket to seal good. Make sure the elbow on the valve has a good rubber seal (air tight). Since the original PCV with threaded connection (AC CV469, CV208 and CV965) are hard to find or $$$ you'll need a CV609 which has hose connections. You'll need to work out the fittings. I would stay with the original size of hose (5/8") so it doesn't affect flow. You'll need a 5/8" hose from valve cover connection to you air cleaner (which is not shown in your pictures).

If you don't want a PVC system then connect the hose from the road draft tube to the valve cover elbow. Use a vented oil fill. You don't need a connection to the air cleaner.

I don’t think your last suggestion will work. The road draft tube creates suction at road speed and draws fresh air into the crankcase via the vented oil fill cap in the valve cover evacuating the fumes. If the OP connects the hose from the road draft tube to the valve cover, there won’t be any suction to evacuate the fumes.

If the OP does not want the PCV system, he must get a road draft tube, keep the vented oil fill cap on the valve cover and plug the hose that goes to the air cleaner.

If it was mine, I would buy the proper brass fittings to reattach the road draft tube to the intake manifold, keep the vented oil fill cap on the valve cover then plug the hose fitting on the valve cover. Just that will get you back on the road again.

I would also look into reconnecting the valve cover to the air cleaner again. Having that extra hose connection from the valve cover to the clean side of the air cleaner is the best way to run a PCV system. It draws filtered air into the valve cover, thru the crankcase, gets evacuated thru the intake manifold and burned up with the gas.