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| | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 153 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 153 | I have a 350 with the two piece gasket timing cover. It leaks at the very bottom were the rubber gasket insert is. It also leaks around the balancer. I Just replaced the gaskets hoping it would solve the problem but alas it still leaks. The timing cover is a chevy performance billet cover and is flat so I assume i'm doing something wrong. i am not looking forward to taking everything apart again so since I have to I want to get it right.
Thanks,
Mac | | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 37 Member | | Member Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 37 | Handyman, I put a small gob of rtv (blue poop)silicone in the corners where the rubber and cover meet,also put a small gob on the backside of the key on the crank, been doing it this way for 30 years and never had a leaker yet, hope this helps | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | If it leaks around the balancer the seal must be bad or the balancer has grooves worn in it. There is a sleeve available to repair it. It is available at any parts store. Dan is right. Put RTV on everything & it doesn,t even have to be blue.
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 153 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 153 | Guys
Thanks for the info. Its a new balancer so it must be the seal. I'll go the RTV route and pray its the last time for a while!
Mac | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | handymanmac,
I'm not sure this applies to this engine, but the critical alignment point is the timing cover oil seal. If this aftermarket cover wasn't made carefully, the bolts might not be centering the cover on the crank snout.
If you use the seal and balancer as a 'centering device', you are assured that the cover will be bolted down where it belongs, and the seal won't leak.
Stuart | | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 65 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 65 | When you install a new seal lubricate it with some oil or a little grease. A seal can become damaged on start up if it is running dry.
Sean
doing what you love is happiness
loving what you do is freedom
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 427 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 427 | I had 1 that leaked like that, here's what I did and it worked.
Attach (or have someone hold) a shop vac to the oil inlet on the valve cover, turn it on.
Spray some brake cleaner around where the leak is to clean the area, only a little bit.
The shop vac will suck air in where the leak is, apply sealant (rtv) to the leaking area.
The vac will draw in the sealer at the point of the leak so that it's not just sealed on the surface. let it dry. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | You didn,t say what year truck it is in but if you really want to get it right you need to pull the pan. You may have pulled part of the pan gasket out when you removed the cover. If you don,t be shure to get some RTV in the edge of the pan. Did you put in new gaskets & damper & not replace the seal?
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 153 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 153 | Guys Got it fixed! Thanks for the help! What I think happened was the balancer ruined the seal upon start up. When I took the balancer off I noticed that the surface wasnt real smooth. So I polished it up and added some break in lube before I reassembled it. Its now running and leak free. For me the lesson learned is just cuz its new dosnt mean its right. I wont make this mistake again.
Mac | | |
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