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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2019 Posts: 95 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2019 Posts: 95 | I am swapping engines in my 53 chevy PU 3100 and the replacement used engine has all the guide pins that the flywheel fits over broken off. I was able to get one drilled tapped and pulled so far and am getting ready to tackle the next two. Question is are these pins available for purchase anywhere online or will I need to go to my local machine shop and have them made? thanks to all for the help!
1953 3100 Pu
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,504 Moderator, Electrical Bay | | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,504 | Broken off of the crankshaft end? That's sort of surprising. I'm operating from memory, but as I recall there were (3) 3/8" pins used. If I'm correct on that, I'd think you could get a common stainless steel 3/8" rod of 12 inch length for $5 or less and just use it.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 1,970 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 1,970 | Okay, help me remember: are the pins for alignment – to keep the FW true/ concentric with the crank, or for something else?
You may be able to buy suitable pins at a hardware store... or from someplace like McMaster-Carr.
Professional Novice
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,504 Moderator, Electrical Bay | | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,504 | Yes, they're for alignment. There are 6 flywheel bolts which sit between each stud and each group of 2 is locked in place with a typical sheet metal piece which you lift up with a screwdriver and kick a lip up onto the bolt head with a hammer. I measured one on a crank I have out there. It is 3/8 inch diameter, so I think any sort of 3/8" diameter rod would be able to be cut, end beveled a bit and driven or pressed in. Bigtime overkill on the length, but here's one at Home Depot: https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-8-in-x-36-in-Plain-Steel-Round-Rod-802447/204273959 A hacksaw, a vice and a common file to dress the edges a bit ought to put him in business again.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,504 Moderator, Electrical Bay | | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,504 | Good grief. Typing too fast. A vise...not a vice. Although a vice would be more fun, wouldn't it?
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,838 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,838 | The pins are also offset to prevent the flywheel from being installed with the timing mark out of position. Otherwise, the timing might have to be set on the #2 or #3 cylinder instead of #1. The bolts are evenly spaced- - - -the dowels aren't. Don't use hollow roll pins- - - -if the dowel holes are drilled all the way through the crankshaft flange like the threaded bolt holes, a hollow pin will cause an oil leak into the bellhousing. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,504 Moderator, Electrical Bay | | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,504 | As Jerry reiterated, they're for alignment. As long as you haven't done something nutty like drill new holes in your flywheel, the pattern will prevent you from installing the flywheel in the 235 incorrectly. The holes are indeed drilled all the way through the flange and the dowel pins are an interference fit. The length of each pin is 1 1/8" with 3/8" diameter. Good luck.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2019 Posts: 95 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2019 Posts: 95 | Thanks everyone! As it turned out getting those pins out was indeed a challenge. I ended up carefully marking the centers of the broken pins( or as close as I could) and methodically drilling progressively larger holes and finally tapping with a 5/16 tap. After a good soaking with PB Blaster and inserting a grade 8 bolt with large washer I used a pulley extractor threaded onto a slide hammer and banged them out. I watched quite a few youtube videos on extracting broken studs but was afraid of applying heat with the torch as I was unsure about heating up the crank end flange and warping something. A quick trip to the machine shop produced a short piece of 3/8 stainless rod for free which I cut, beveled and hammered in. Lets just say the new pins suffered slight distortion re-seating but a slight filing and even pulling with the flywheel bolts seated the flywheel and now I`m back on track to getting that new, used engine in the truck.
1953 3100 Pu
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,504 Moderator, Electrical Bay | | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,504 | Good! Thanks for letting us know. Good luck with the rest of it.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
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