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Joined: Jun 2020
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'Bolter
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Hi All,

I've been making progress on cleanup, and I had a question about the leaf springs. I've included pics of the "worst looking" one. Can these be cleaned up and reused, or would I be better off getting replacements? This truck was apparently buried up to the bottom of the cab when I bought it. As much as I love spending money on my baby, I'd like to reuse as much as I can. grin

Thanks for any help y'all can provide.

Bret
Attachments
spring1.jpg (134.21 KB, 165 downloads)
spring2.jpg (296.37 KB, 174 downloads)
spring3.jpg (218.38 KB, 165 downloads)


1952 Chevy 3100 - currently apart and hogging up the garage.
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262
You could probably clean and reuse those springs.
Wait to hear from other members.
Here are some videos and articles/reading-material.
I would buy new springs.

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,442
Bolter
Bolter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,442
That’s some serious rust issues right there!🛠


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
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Joined: Jun 2020
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B
'Bolter
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Originally Posted by tclederman
You could probably clean and reuse those springs.
Wait to hear from other members.
Here are some videos and articles/reading-material.
I would buy new springs.

Thanks for the link! Watching how much goes into rebuilding these now. Helps me make up my mind. smile



Originally Posted by Justhorsenround
That’s some serious rust issues right there!🛠

Yeah it really is. That's why I was trying to figure out if these were even savable. I did some wire wheeling on the front springs, and they are cleaner, but still a bit pitted. Not sure if pitting (the light kind) plays a factor in leaf springs.

Last edited by BretStone; 07/13/2020 5:33 PM.

1952 Chevy 3100 - currently apart and hogging up the garage.
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
E
Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
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Not supposed to sandblast spring leaves. Several on here have gotten new springs and been very happy, some shop near St. Louis. Look back through recent posts. I would replace them, not worth the labor, broken leaves.

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
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Originally Posted by EdPruss
Not supposed to sandblast spring leaves. Several on here have gotten new springs and been very happy, some shop near St. Louis. Look back through recent posts. I would replace them, not worth the labor, broken leaves.

Ed

Ah I see. I don't have any sandblasting equipment (yet), so my plan was just to wire wheel them. If it's too much of a hassle, it might be worth the few hundred versus all that sweat.


1952 Chevy 3100 - currently apart and hogging up the garage.
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,208
J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
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Just my 2 cents, but I believe these springs are never going to work as smoothly as they ought to again. There are a few different spring companies in Houston...Draco, C & J and you might also check with Pruitt. I'm certain you'll find somebody who can make a new set for you. One word about springs and buying from somewhere far away: These are heavy, they're oversize and usually they require special packing/boxing. I think you'll pay about $30~$40 in shipping for each spring. That's why I'm suggesting a drive into Houston. Good luck.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
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Moderator, Electrical Bay
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PS...also (very important postscript) get new U bolts made and new nuts for them. Please forget using the old ones. These as you already know are not really U bolts but U bolts with flat tops. If you can't find anyone down your way, send your old ones to Truett Worrall Company up here and they'll make new ones for you. https://www.twsprings.com/


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 43
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by Jon G
Just my 2 cents, but I believe these springs are never going to work as smoothly as they ought to again. There are a few different spring companies in Houston...Draco, C & J and you might also check with Pruitt. I'm certain you'll find somebody who can make a new set for you. One word about springs and buying from somewhere far away: These are heavy, they're oversize and usually they require special packing/boxing. I think you'll pay about $30~$40 in shipping for each spring. That's why I'm suggesting a drive into Houston. Good luck.


Originally Posted by Jon G
PS...also (very important postscript) get new U bolts made and new nuts for them. Please forget using the old ones. These as you already know are not really U bolts but U bolts with flat tops. If you can't find anyone down your way, send your old ones to Truett Worrall Company up here and they'll make new ones for you. https://www.twsprings.com/

Thanks Jon for the tip! I was leaning towards replacement, based on everyone here’s input, and that’s a good point. I’m not sure that they would be the same even after I cleaned them up. I’ll for sure check out shops around town here, for both the springs and the U bolts.


1952 Chevy 3100 - currently apart and hogging up the garage.
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,208
J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
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Good luck Bret. Please be certain when you're talking to them to remember that you'll need new spring eye bushings with the springs. It is a snap for them to install those when the springs are being made and new eye bushings and shackle pins make a real nice difference in things. You might also see if they'll throw in the eye bolts and if they will be certain to get the ones with grease zerks. Usually they will do that (for a charge of course) and it is usually less expensive because you often have to buy those as a set (with the bushing) and then you have to pay for an extra bushing...if that makes sense. Hope it does.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 770
Former BMW Rider
Former BMW Rider
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Posts: 770
I vote for a total replacement of your leaf springs. I just recycled these front and rear leaf springs from my '47 3104. Note how the shorter leaf has worn into the longer leaf. I purchased new springs (front and rear) from St. Louis Spring for just under $620.00. They came with new bushings too. What a total difference in the ride.....
Attachments
Front and Rear Leaf Springs -Side.jpg (166.34 KB, 153 downloads)
Front and Rear Leaf Springs - Bottom.jpg (166.62 KB, 152 downloads)
REAR - WEAR.jpg (147.76 KB, 142 downloads)
FRONT - WEAR.jpg (142.91 KB, 130 downloads)
RF Leaf Spring.jpg (116.91 KB, 127 downloads)


Andy

His: 1947 Chevrolet 3104
Hers: 2008 American Saddlebred

"I proudly Stand for the Flag and Kneel for the Cross" Unknown
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Originally Posted by HandyAndy
I vote for a total replacement of your leaf springs. I just recycled these front and rear leaf springs from my '47 3104. Note how the shorter leaf has worn into the longer leaf. I purchased new springs (front and rear) from St. Louis Spring for just under $620.00. They came with new bushings too. What a total difference in the ride.....


Oh wow! Yeah I think that new springs are in order. I haven't been able to get mine off yet and fully cleaned to survey whats under the dirt/rust, but I have a feeling that it won't be good. I guess my blasting cabinet will have to wait another paycheck wink


1952 Chevy 3100 - currently apart and hogging up the garage.
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 331
S
'Bolter
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I replaced all mine with new springs from St. Lois Spring for the same reason as HandyAndy - the shorter leaves had worn into the longer leaves. I also got the u-bolts and nuts from them. The springs came with new bushings installed. I got the fronts one summer when visiting my folks near St.Louis and the rears the next summer. I called them with the order in the morning and picked them up that afternoon. Very good service and quality!
Samantha

Joined: Apr 2009
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H
'Bolter
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Another vote for St. Louis Springs. I have had a lot of old trucks and my 52 is the first one I did all new springs on. I never knew these trucks could ride so well.

Joined: Mar 2014
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J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
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They ride nicely with new springs and if you radius the ends of the leaves where they mate with other leaves just slightly and install lipped liners they ride even better (and more quietly). Radiusing the leaves is a very old trick and I'll tell you another in a moment. These are simple springs and any decent spring shop will be able to make them. Making them work at their best is up to you. When I was in high school we would save a quart or so of old crankcase oil, mix that with equal measure of kerosene, jack the car/truck up and apply that to the springs with a hand pump oil can. It wasn't a lot of fun (particularly in the winter), but your vehicle would ride like new for a few weeks. When it was time to do this again (next oil change) we'd go to the coin op car wash and hose the dirt/dust off the springs first.

Bret it dawned on me last night that one possible rescue for your old springs might be to use spring liners. If the inner parts of the springs are not too pitted, liners might get you by. Spring liners can be Teflon, HDPE, LDPE or other poly compounds. I like the lipped ones because they stay put. Here is an example of the width you need: https://tinyurl.com/y4ur8oro Just a thought.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 43
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by Samantha
I replaced all mine with new springs from St. Lois Spring for the same reason as HandyAndy - the shorter leaves had worn into the longer leaves. I also got the u-bolts and nuts from them. The springs came with new bushings installed. I got the fronts one summer when visiting my folks near St.Louis and the rears the next summer. I called them with the order in the morning and picked them up that afternoon. Very good service and quality!
Samantha


Originally Posted by Hookalatch
Another vote for St. Louis Springs. I have had a lot of old trucks and my 52 is the first one I did all new springs on. I never knew these trucks could ride so well.

I’ll check them out for sure! I haven’t had a chance to check out the local shops yet in person, but if it’s still cheaper with St. Louis Springs, I’ll be giving them a call.

Originally Posted by Jon G
Bret it dawned on me last night that one possible rescue for your old springs might be to use spring liners. If the inner parts of the springs are not too pitted, liners might get you by. Spring liners can be Teflon, HDPE, LDPE or other poly compounds. I like the lipped ones because they stay put. Here is an example of the width you need: https://tinyurl.com/y4ur8oro Just a thought.

Thanks Jon! I’m planning on getting those springs out sometime this week. I’ll take a look at the insides and see if I can get by for a while with liners. I’ve been pleasantly surprised so far with how the chassis looks after cleanup, so I’ll post an update with what I find out.


1952 Chevy 3100 - currently apart and hogging up the garage.

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