I recently bought my 60 and it came with the dreaded RH5 wheels. I've been searching around and I’m a little bummed that new 6x8.75 lug wheels are limited to one or two brands and they are big $$.
I’ve been researching replacement hubs or axles, possibly a modern Dodge/Chevy 5500 or 6500 rear end. Has anyone tried to swap those over to a C60? I would like to eventually make highway speeds (70-75 here in Texas) and was thinking a different rear end ratio would help.
I also wouldn't be against a hub swap (8 or 10 lug) is that isn't too problematic and look at going to a different drivetrain later down the line.
Hy Wedgele, we have a saying in this Hobby/business, "anything will fit in anything, how much money do you have?" I have no idea what facilities you have, or what sources you have to buy used parts from, but 22.5" tubeless wheels with the bolt pattern you need should not be too hard to find used. You should post an ad in the parts wanted forum farther down the page looking for your wheels in tube type or tubeless versions. The heaviest trucks in the 1959 Chevrolet line used the ten hole on 11.25" bolt circle wheels the same pattern as the semi truck wheels of the day. Theoretically a swap to the hubs which will support that pattern may be possible if the wheel bearings involved are the same, but I would look for wheels of the correct pattern first, hope that helps.
Thanks 3B, I wholeheartedly agree the with the right amount of $$ you can do anything! There is a big truck wrecking yard near us, and I was planning on checking them out for 6-lug 22.5’s, hubs, or newer axles. I have found several adds for 20” military 6-lugs split rims but I would have to piece them together to get 6 wheels. I’ll do some research on the 10-lug hubs from ‘59 to see what the differences are. Like I mention, my ultimate goal would be to have the truck cruising highway speeds without running 3,000+ rpm!
Good news is that as much as I want to drive it, I’m not in a rush, so I can avoid buying the wrong parts!
Just a little FYI...none of the Task Force trucks used a "C" in front of the Series, that didn't start until 1960, so your truck is just a "60 Series Viking"
Also, if you're keeping the original engine you want the rpm up at or above 3000 to stay in the power curve. If you drop it down below 3k you will lug the engine. I drive my '57 10500 Fire Engine all day long in the mid to upper 3000 rpm range doing about 65 mph. I've logged over 30,000 miles so far driving it to truck shows and parades at 7 mpg...truck weighs 14,200 pounds with no water in the tank.
Mike B
Mike Boteler
1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod 1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep 1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo 1984 Jeep CJ7 +++++ Silver Spring, MD
Thanks for the info Mike! I didn’t realize the “C” designation didn’t start until 1960! The “Task Force” is new to me as well, is that a special designation for the larger trucks? I still have a lot to learn on the history side of these trucks.
I appreciate the info on RPMs and speeds. My truck is factory 283 (VIN starts with a “V”), however it is not the original engine. The serial numbers indicate a warranty replacement. I’ll be interested in seeing my MPG once I get it running. Currently replacing the radiator core and working on the brakes.
"Task Force" (TF) is what Chevrolet called it's truck line up from 1955 Second Series trucks through 1959. Before that they were known as the "Advance Design" (AD), 1947-1955 First Series).
Mike B
Mike Boteler
1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod 1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep 1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo 1984 Jeep CJ7 +++++ Silver Spring, MD