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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,139 Posts1,056,762 Members48,454 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2017 Posts: 8 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2017 Posts: 8 | I'm just getting into the rear brakes on my 1 ton. The teeth on one of the adjuster wheels are mostly sheered off - what are the options to repair this? Do I just need to find replacement backing plates? | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | The part does show up on Ebay. When you can, send me a PM, I may be able to help. I think the challenge would be how to attach the new wheel. I think they were swagged together. I have often wondered if it is possible to cut a slot in the backing plate and adjust it like the front. The brakes on the front of my 38 Master, which use the same drums as the 1/2 Ton, have a hole drilled in the drum to do the adjustment. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2013 Posts: 250 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2013 Posts: 250 | When I first got my 1-Ton I was delighted to see how easy it was to adjust the back brakes. Just put a wrench on the adjuster and turn it, clockwise to tighten and anti clockwise to loosen. Then I tried it and promptly stripped the teeth on the cam due to rust in the fine threads in the end caps of the wheel cylinder that had frozen tight. I ended up using a brass punch and a small hammer to get the end cap to move. When you put everything back together lightly lubricate the threads so that they can't rust up and it's a fine idea to carefully move the adjusters back and forth a little every so often. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 892 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 892 | It's been a few years now but I once was able to get new the wheel with the pimples on them that engage the ends of the wheel cylinders. I braised them onto the existing shafts with new springs. It has worked for many years now. I have long used Never Seize compound on the aluminum pistons, the threads on the adjusters, front and rear, and anything else I can think of just to ward off the devils of rust. Don't forget the bleed screws in the wheel cylinders. 1951 3800 1-ton"Earning its keep from the get-go"In the DITY Gallery1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971. | | |
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