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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 209 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 209 | I am going to replace the current fuel line from the pump to the carb on a 54 235.The existing one is rubber that I used to replace the rubber line that was on it when I got the truck, but I'm ready to do the permanent repair with brake line. Do these use flare or compression fittings or does it matter? Currently I have a stub of flared copper at the carb and a barbed fitting at the fuel unit. John | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,271 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,271 | Inverted flare on both ends, unless you put a glass bowl filter at the carburetor. I don't recommend a fuel filter at the carburetor. The trucks were not delivered from the assembly line with these filters. The dealer installed them as an add on money maker. Why did they put them there? Time is money. It was quicker to hard mount it to the carburetor and cut the fuel line and add a compression fitting. A better place would be as close to the tank as possible.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 209 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 209 | Thanks Carl. I thought it was flared but its funny how some things I knew without thinking about it now are lost in the cloud when I try to remember after going a few years not having to work fix it on a regular basis. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,652 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,652 | Here is my take on the fuel filter. With today's corrosive and rubber damaging alcohol laced fuel, you might consider installing a decent inline fuel filter after the pump to catch any debris from the fuel tank, fuel lines, or more importantly, from a deteriorating and self destructing fuel pump diaphragm. I actually run two, one after the tank (to keep the pump from getting junk in it), and one after the pump (to keep the junk out of the carb or clogging up a brass screen at the carb if your carb has one). Probably over kill but some of the inline screw together filters work really well without much if any parasitic loss through the filter mesh. Use hard lines but take a pass on regular copper lines as they are really prone to cracking and breaking. Its the last thing you need is a fuel leak at the carb, dripping all over the exhaust manifold. Do some use regular old copper for fuel lines, yes, quite often over the years but its really not where you want to be in this day and age. Use 45 degree flared steel lines, or the Ni-Coop line as both will do the right job. Inline Tube and I think the Right Stuff sell both the ni-copp line and the proper fittings for the flair (stainless or standard steel). The other alternative is to order a pre bent set, figure out where you want to install the filter, cut, re flare and then you are done. Stay away from any filter with glass, and probably better to stay away from any plastic filters. I know its not original, and may even look out of place, but in my view, a lot safer with the added benefit of keeping the carb and needle and seat clean and working correctly.
Last edited by Dragsix; 06/29/2020 4:08 PM.
Mike
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 2,763 Carburetion specialist | | Carburetion specialist Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 2,763 | Several different good ideas, which again proves there is more than one way to do things. I personally use a glass bowl filter right at the carburetor, and none between the tank and pump. WHY? I don't like crawling under the vehicle to change a defective filter. Sometimes a mechanical pump will not properly draw through a filter. And quality fuel pump kits are readily available, and not expensive. I would concur with Dragsix about protecting the carburetor with a filter at the carburetor against all debris including a deteriorating fuel pump diaphragm. I like to use the glass bowl filters. I use the old Carters, with a Carter Magnatrap, but a new filter may be used, and substitute a "button magnet" for the magnatrap. This gives dual protection, as even tiny rust particles will adhere to the magnet. When the magnet is no longer gray, but rust red, time to remove the bowl, clean the magnet, and reinstall. Really difficult to see through a metal bowl  And have used these glass bowl filters on cars, trucks, and tractors since 1959 with zero problems. And again, I concur with Dragsix about avoiding plastic filters. As far as the lines are concerned, each end (fuel pump, and either carburetor or filter) probably accept a male 1/8 pipe fitting. One can then use either compression or inverted flare on the line to the appropriate fitting. However, inverted flare may normally be reused, if necessary to remove either the carburetor or the fuel pump. I don't like trying to use compression fittings, so I won't. If compression fittings are used, then I would suggest bending a new line if either the carburetor or fuel pump must be removed for service. Jon. Good carburetion is fuelish hot airThe most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify. If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes!The Carburetor Shop | | | | | Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,652 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,652 | Jon, its funny, I was actually thinking of the newer glass inline filters you see currently for sale, as opposed to the traditional glass filters. The newer ones are advertised like they are just the top of the line but man are they lousy and prone to cracking and breaking. A fire just waiting to happen. I just plain forgot about the AC and Carter bell type filters as I have not used them in a lot of years. I am still not sure I would use one these days although lots still do and they seem to work just fine.
Last edited by Dragsix; 06/30/2020 1:44 AM.
Mike
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 2,763 Carburetion specialist | | Carburetion specialist Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 2,763 | Mike - I used to also use the inline before the pump. Then one day, Dad and I were headed for Hershey in his Winnebago, and about 200 yards into a mile and a half causeway (NO SHOULDER), the engine started sputtering. He nursed it to the end of the causeway at about 20 MPH (2 lane BUSY road, you can imagine the comments and the amount of "your number one" gestures we received when he pulled off to the side of the road! The motorhome was high enough I could crawl under and change the filter (on the traffic side of the motorhome). We carried a pretty good selection of spare parts. When we got home, that filter was eliminated, and I have not had an older vehicle with a filter in this location since. As to the newer vehicles, I don't know where the filters are located, and don't care. Cell phones were invented to call for help when efi or electronic ignitions fail! Note we didn't need cell phones before the invention of these items  And to the OP: different ideas from different folks. Use what is comfortable to you. Would suggest eliminating the neopreme fuel lines. Jon. Good carburetion is fuelish hot airThe most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify. If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes!The Carburetor Shop | | | | | Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,652 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,652 | I won’t lie. I really really miss the old Hershey show, the grass fields, the old timers, chicken bbq dinner by the taproom at the end of the day, or maybe a steak at the sunset hotel. The last time I was there, I went on condition Day for the race cars and high wheelers. It was great to see and hear the vintage racers circle inside the arena. But outside, the flea market just does not have the same vibe on the paved lots as it did on the grass in the fields. Everything changes I guess. Sometimes for the better, sometimes not.
Last edited by Dragsix; 06/30/2020 1:52 AM.
Mike
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 2,763 Carburetion specialist | | Carburetion specialist Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 2,763 | I won’t lie. I really really miss the old Hershey show, the grass fields, the old timers, chicken bbq dinner by the taproom at the end of the day, or maybe a steak at the sunset hotel. The last time I was there, I went on condition Day for the race cars and high wheelers. It was great to see and hear the vintage racers circle inside the arena. But outside, the flea market just does not have the same vibe on the paved lots as it did on the grass in the fields. Everything changes I guess. Sometimes for the better, sometimes not. Grass in the fields???? More often than not it was MUD in the fields!  We vended for about 20 years at Hershey (1973~1992). Jon. Good carburetion is fuelish hot airThe most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify. If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes!The Carburetor Shop | | | | | Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,652 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,652 | A truer statement there never was. Mud, and more mud, and tractors pulling the cars and trucks and trailers out after. Always rain at some point. My dad took me the first time in 76. My grandfather and he had been going for years to pick up what they needed to keep their antiques running so I went at 15 (which was a big treat because they let me skip school to do it) to get parts for my first car (which I still have to this day). There was no internet, no craigs list. Hershey was the big one. If you could not find it at Hershey, you were not going to find it that year. I made most shows through 2010 or so but my dad and grand father were gone by then, and less and less old time stuff out for sale. Lots of tools, clothing, toys, other junk. I still liked it. I may try to go back next year, maybe on Friday again and watch the race cars prove condition for Saturday's show. I always enjoyed that.
It would not surprise me if I had purchased a carb or kit from you during those years as that really was the only place to do it.
Last edited by Dragsix; 06/30/2020 5:01 PM.
Mike
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