Well, the engine is stripped down, tranny to come off shortly. Then, how do I attach the chain for the engine hoist to pick it up? This is a 1960 Apache C20, 235 I6. Just want to make sure and not drop it or use a short hole and strip it out, etc....
The factory recommendation was to use two eye bolts (part of their tool kit #J-4536-A)) replacing two head bolts (this Procedure is from p. 6-21 of the '55 Chevy 2nd Series Truck Shop Manual, but it still applies). Figure 27 will help ID the head bolts they suggested for balance. There are other attachment points that work, also. But with a bare chassis, I would probably use two slings underneath the engine to raise it. Dry weight of the engine with bell housing, no transmission, is just over 600 #.
If the rocker arms are removed, use two of the rocker stand holes with Grade 5 or better 3/6-16 bolts as lift points. Bolt a chain to the #2 and #4 rocker stand points and the engine and bellhousing assembly should lift pretty close to level. There's also a lot less danger of damaging rockers and pushrods if they're out of the way before you start lifting. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I will be leaving the engine intact. Guess I will go with the sling. Plan is to remove transmission and bellhousing before engine. thanks, really good procedure for lifting engine.
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
34 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
A cradle that picks up the rear, side engine mounts and the front mount will do it, however, you will loose the rear mounts when you remove the bellhousing. Then you can make a cradle of 2 X 10's or so to pick up the pan rails, but then you cannot remove the pan. So when you remove the bellhousing and are suspending the engine from the valve cover bolts, etc., find a standard rotating engine mount that is designed for it and pick up some of the rear block bolts that held the bellhousing on. Then you can rotate the engine 360 degrees to work on it. It is best to get one with four wheels, and is long enough for a 6 cyl. engine. Look around for a used one, just make sure it is strong enough.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
I will be removing the tranny first, then the clutch / bell housing. The engine will come out in a sling or cradle.. to be determined. The engine will go into the back of my truck and off to a rebuilder. I just do nuts and bolts for the most part. Sanding and painting will be my next skill set. thanks to all
