| |
BUSY BOLTERS Are you one?  The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
| | Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics126,780 Posts1,039,296 Members48,100 | | Most Online2,175
Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Nov 2019 Posts: 17 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2019 Posts: 17 | I am beating my head against a wall trying to get the rear drums off. I have a bad wheel cylinder pouring fluid. Ordered the new parts and now I can't get the drum off to save my life. I backed off the adjusters, I opened the bleeder valve, removed the brake line, I even, pulled the bolts and tapped the wheel cylinders inwards to take any pressure off.
I have read that I need to pull the axles, and I have read that I do not.
I have the three screws through the drum. My understanding is that indicates the drum should slide off the hub without pulling the axle. I have used PB blaster, I have heated the drum with the torch, heat beat and repeat. Nothing. Suggestions? | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 6,189 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 6,189 | I have a 6' length of 3" heavy wall pipe that I use as a slide hammer/battering ram to drive the drums off. Laying under the truck I rest the pipe on top of the leaf springs and take good aim at the back edge of the drum and give it heck...two or three good hits on the back edge and then two or three on the front edge to walk it off...it's a slow process, but it has worked for me on several occasions. Pulling the axle and removing the outer bearing will allow the entire hub to swivel and move more which may help. You'll want to remove the hub anyway for better access to the brakes. Mike B  | | | | | Joined: May 2017 Posts: 330 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2017 Posts: 330 | Like Mike said, pull the hub and drum as an assembly by removing the axle and the bearing retaining nuts. Much easier to work on the drum off the vehicle and if it is OK, there is no need to separate it from the hub.
Mac :{)
1962 K10 short step side, much modified for rally
1969 T50 fire truck, almost nos, needs a few things
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 1,363 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 1,363 | Pulling the axle and removing the outer bearing will allow the entire hub to swivel and move more which may help. You'll want to remove the hub anyway for better access to the brakes. Mike B It will also be good time to replace hub seal. Always a bummer to have a axle fluid leak on your new brake shoes.
BC
1960 Chevy C10 driver 261 T5 4.10 dana 44 power loc
1949 GMC 250 project in waiting
1960 C60 pasture art
Retired GM dealer tech. 1980 - 2022
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2019 Posts: 17 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2019 Posts: 17 | I got the drum off! I didn't pull the axle, or hub or mess with any seals. I had a 10 foot piece of drill rod. I laid under the truck and guided the end of the rod around the edge of the drum while my friend used the hammer. It took a few times around and then popped off slick as could be! | | | | | Joined: Apr 2020 Posts: 84 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2020 Posts: 84 | Yea that works also!,glad to see im not the only one i use 11/4×8" brass drift
Karl j Townsend
| | |
|
|
| |
