The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Keeping the '46 original - Input appreciated.

I would absolutely love to keep my new '46 as original as possible. Having said that, I know there are issues with the brakes, and the location of the gas tank bothers us (he's going to be my daily driver).

For anyone who has left a' 46 (or similar frame) on the original frame: What did you buy to upgrade the brakes & steering? Did you upgrade anything else?

For those who converted to a modern frame: What did that entail? Do you have any regrets (for swapping, or the method which you chose to swap)?

I hate coming on here and asking so many questions as a newbie, but I'm a newbie. 😆 I want to keep him as original as possible, but hubby and I also want him to be safe and dependable. I would get him running and leave him 100% "as is" if it were a safe and practical option. He's not going to be a "trailer king" though, so I need him to be dependable.

All advice is much appreciated! And don't worry about 'dumbing things down for me', that's how I'm going to learn. 👍

That is a beautiful truck, as far as brake's are concerned look on The Stovebolt info for installing duel master cylinder rather than the original single. The steering is a dream to rebuild. I used the stock steering on a 46 that was modified completely ( high performance 350 motor glass beaded and painted candy apple emerald, etc.). Years ago when I had it modified $41,000, worth it was a show winner. Sold it for $40,000. You can NEVER get out of them what you put in on major modifications. Stock or near stock prices on one as nice as yours will keep going up. It is a very nice feeling driving my stock 54' knowing as long as keep it stock and clean the miles don't matter, it's value keeps going up. So many of my friends have done complete modifications because they planned on keeping them which is nice.It's your truck do what you think right. The reason I mention the duel brakes is that no matter if your front brakes for instance goes out you still have rear brakes and vice versa. If you decide to ever sell, a purest can make an easy change back. As far as gas tanks are concerned I prefer it in the back between the frame. I did cheat on my 54', I installed two six volt batteries in series with a very thin mount under dash air conditioning/heat unit out of a Lexus. It runs on 12 volt but the rest of the truck runs on 6 volt. More about that later. My vote is as usual KEEP IT STOCK and love what you got. If it was in rough shape then consider advanced modifications,you have a diamond so just keep it shiny. Doc

Thank you! Good info, Doc. I'm taking screenshots of everyone's advice and adding them to the photo album I made for restoration. I figured that was the easiest way to keep track.

I've wanted a truck since HS but when I saw a green '46 at a car show in Washington, Indiana last summer I knew that was what I'd keep looking for. I really lucked out! We drove [5hrs one way] 2wknds ago to check him out. Hubby crawled all over and underneath - any rust is surface rust. I got the gentleman down on the price a little, and we drove back this past Sunday and got him. 😁

My grandpa was a master carpenter and was always restoring something [to its original beauty]. I really enjoy looking at the immaculate rebuilds but, for me, I knew it had to be original/patina. I'm anxious to get started on the bed too. I'm currently trying to figure out how to get the dirt and debri out from between the planks w/o damaging the wood. It would be sooo easy with an air compressor or a power washer. Haha

A wire brush lightly, then a brass brush then a good ol scrub brush with Murphy's soap then 220 sand paper going with the wood grain. I would then replace the missing wood by a technique called scabbing. I have some oak from my 54' that I could send you. My bed was mint but the dumb guy that said he was storing it (here in Florida), left it outside for 7 years. I would probably go partially celibate for a 46' like your's. Oh I always put boiled linseed oil on my bed every couple of years, it's painted black with quality paint just like the way it came from the factory. Doc

LoL I appreciate it, Doc. I was just getting on here to see what kind of sand paper I should use to start taking the rust off of the rims. so I'll add some 220 to my shopping list.

Linseed Oil keeps coming up. I couldn't wrap my head around it at first because I used it in my art classes in college when I painted. I've done a little reading and it makes sense now. My oldest son keeps trying to get me to "go all out" with a paint job but I'm just going to try and preserve what paint is left, and attempt to detour more rust.

Thanks for the offer on the oak! Hubby (David) just messaged earlier and said that a co-worker's dad is checking his sister's barn because she [apparently] has a lot of old barn wood. If that doesn't pan out I may take you up on your offer. David read last night that they were generally hard yellow oak (which is probably extinct now). LoL As long as it close and I can preserve what's left it won't bother me if I find something that doesn't 100% match. I'm glad they kept the plywood in it! I would probably strangle the guy who stored yours! Some people don't have an appreciation for "old things", and others are just greedy... Some are both!

Lowes or Home Depot is the best place to get it. 1 qt. can may do it. Check the price, if the wood is as dry as it looks get a gallon and then re-apply rest in about a month. It will dry hard depending on humidity. From the pictures it looks nice, paint can come after. Doc

Get it running and stopping with ALL new brake lines, rubber and steel. Add at right tail light and turn signals for safety and drive it to see if it meets your expectations. The truck could be painted in clear satin finish which would protect it from the the weather and leave the patina look. Major modifications can come later if desired, these old trucks are easy to work on, but do require a little more hands on tinkering from time to time.

Have fun and start making memories!

Mike B

May as well get a gallon of linseed oil, lots of uses, seems like the price goes $5./gal every time I buy more, gal. lasts a long time.

Ed

@ Mike B - Thank you! The first thing I said was passenger side brake light. I hadn't even thought about turn signals.

@ Ed Pruss - Thank you! I called our local hardware store on Monday and they do carry it. It's come up a lot and I'm researching the best ways to use it (and store it).

If your bed is original, the wood used in Chevrolet/GMC was broad leaf southern yellow pine. It was also treated with a combination of lamp black and linseed oil, which gave the wood its original dull black color. Your bed looks to be in pretty tough shape and I don’t think replacing the wood would detract much from its originality. IMHO

Great looking truck and I agree to keep it as original as possible.

Have you considered a light compounding and wax to keep the original paint? It would bring out the color of the original paint. I wouldn’t go crazy with compounding. Just enough to remove the oxidation because it will also remove the paint if not careful. Then use a wax that doesn’t turn white if used over plastic parts (such as Turtle Wax Ice). I would think it work the same over the rust.

If you go the linseed oil route, make sure its boiled linseed oil or it will take a long time to dry.

On the same lines of linseed oil is Penetrol. Marketed as an additive to get paint to flow better it also stops rust from getting worse. Google it, as it may also be an option

Maguiers (sp) part #150 1Step Compound/Polish will brighten up what’s there and then you can follow up with a good caranuba wax. 🛠 We have ventured from Driveline into Paint & Body.

A thought on the gas tank ... Many of us drive our trucks a LOT and we still live quite well in the cab with our gas tanks. Some of us even enjoy a smoke of some kind, too (I enjoy a cigar or two on most of my cruises and I haven't blown up yet). Ask around to see if anyone has even heard of one of our trucks blowing up from the tank in the cab.

BUT ... DO replace all rubber fuel lines (including the fill tube connector) with the new ethanol tolerant rubber (even if you won't be using ethanol gas), and make sure all your steel fuel lines are replaced. Check your tank, too. If you have any doubts, replace it. Most of the parts sellers carry replacement tanks of good quality. I have a new tank in my truck (From Jim Carter) and I'm perfectly happy with it.

As long as we're on safety, you might consider adding seat belts. I used the Juliano's kit in my truck. I'm not sure if they make a kit specifically for the '46 or not. But the kits seam pretty universal and if I can install one, the gang here will tell you that you can, too.

On an administrative note: About those newbie questions, here's the deal -- We want you to ask as many as you can think of. Put these guys to the test and see if you can "stump the chump!"
And then here's the catch: Once you've learned something, or a lot of things (and you will), you have to share them with the newbies who come after you. Some of these old experts around here are starting to get on my nerves ... (They know who they are )

Welcome aboard, too!

John, I just read your post to my wife and she says we should come have an adult beverage with you 🙂 It must be a MD connection. She's originally from Westminster.
Unfortunately we live on the left coast now, so that won't be easy.

Welcome. I kept my 46 very close to original. I replaced the vacuum wipers with electric because anytime you accelerate they will stop. There are other ways such as combination fuel and vacuum pumps. I changed out my rear end gears to 3:55 for higher speeds. The down side is the brakes are Original and were not designed to stop well at 55 plus. They stop it just reminds you they are not antilock. I have knee action shocks. They are horrible. I hit bumps and the truck will move over 2 inches on the road. I'm running 6 volts works fine. Put a 12V radio in the globe box with a 6 to 12v converter. Tanks in the cab. The only concern there is if you roll the truck but at that point who knows. I put in turn signals and made a fuse panel. I have lots of photos of the truck on photo bucket that could help understanding how things go togrther. I will likely sell mine soon as I have a 1951 3/4 ton in my barn that needs to be restored. Have fun with it. Make it how you want. I like stock but my 51 in thinking about putting it on a 2008 Colorado frame?

John, I never said I was an expert! LOL, I hope.Doc

@ Just Horsin' - Thank you for the tip! I've never heard of the part #150 before but I'll definitely check into it.

@ John - Thank you for the advice! Hubby and and I were just talking about it again last night. I need to start making decisions because I'm running out of things to clean, and disassemble. LoL We talked about seatbelts too. I hope to become knowledgeable enough to be of some help, someday.

@ GWWirth - That's good information, thank you! I'll definitely have to go check out your pictures! Hubby and I were just talking about the brakes again last night. I definitely want to upgrade. I'll have to check into the 12v converter because all of the lights that I've seen are 12v. As for the gas tank, I've almost decided on a trunk in the bed... We'll see.

You guys have definitely given me a starting place. I appreciate it!!

The dual-action pump for the wipers does not change much for the wipers, they still slow down.

My bed looked like yours when I got it and still does. But I made an oak framework for it and had a snap-on vinyl cover made for it but that makes it less utilitarian.

We have built probably a dozen Art Deco (41 to 46) trucks, panels, and burbs but just recall two that were close to factory specs. My advice would be to first get the brakes and suspension up to specs and then DRIVE it. Forget the like to have frills and first see if an old truck is what you expected. There has been a number of drop outs when "cute" didn't cut it. I will guarantee it will be WAY noisier, stinky, harder to stop and steer, cramped, and blind that most anyone under fifty years old has experienced. If you decide after having the old truck experience to proceed to go faster and stop better then the air noise will increase a bunch with each 10mph gain in speed and a-c/heat will disappear above 65 mph without serious cab/door/windshield/vent work. Here are some up to date pics of a mostly stock 46 we did 30 years ago that can cruise at 65 but has no a-c or conversation above 55. Also a pic of a 1940 (same cab) that is quiet and warm/cool at 70mph for a mere $70k.

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/sGf8gwnn/Trigger-006.jpg[/img]

Rear showing two tail lights:
[img]https://i.postimg.cc/HJ29kHfg/Trigger-011.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/QF6M8y0z/Trigger-005.jpg[/img]

30 year old bed wood (inside storage)
[img]https://i.postimg.cc/8JkQ7pcB/Trigger-003.jpg[/img]

A quiet at 70mph one:
[img]https://i.postimg.cc/G49jhZb8/Stude-Justin-s-40-Cougar-Cat-004.jpg[/img]

@ Ron - Thank you for the information on the wipers. I'm not sure what to expect. =)

@ Evan - Wow! Sharp truck! Thank you for sharing. That's a lot to think about. I won't be getting rid of him because of the noise or stink...we've got two boys in college, I'm used to all of that. LoL I do worry about the brakes but we're taking it one step at a time. (I'm hoping to pull the motor this week). I just need 55mph to get to work and back. 60 would be great. And his blind spots can't possibly be worse than my Jeep Grand Cherokee...it's awful! I appreciate the information and the pictures. Love the suicide doors.

There's a sneaky trick that improves the performance of vacuum wipers- - - - -put a big vacuum reservoir on the truck, one that stabilizes the operation of the wipers when the vacuum drops momentarily. A long piece of 2" PCV pipe with caps glued on both ends bracketed inside a frame rail, with a one-way check valve between the intake manifold and the reservoir will allow the wipers to operate for several seconds with low manifold vacuum. As soon as the hill levels out or you complete your passing maneuver, the vacuum refills the reservoir "tank". Paint the pipe black, and it virtually disappears inside the fame.
Jerry

Be careful with the rag wet with linseed oil. Do NOT just wad it up and put it to the side. Linseed oil air oxidizes and polymerizes exothermically (giving off heat) and the wadded rag retains the heat. Warmer now, it oxidizes faster and retains more heat. You know the routine. Poof, it's on fire.

When I'm done with a linseed oil rag, I lay it flat on concrete outside to dissipate the heat and wait for it to set-up.

I once gave this spiel to students when they got back from Thanksgiving break. One came up afterwards and said he and his dad burned down their shop a few days earlier when they wadded up the rag and just put it to the side.

I drop rags wet with linseed or Tung oil into a coffee can full of water with a tight-fitting snap lid when I'm done working on the gunstocks I refinish. It's very seldom I'll re-use a piece of rag, but I want it thoroughly saturated with water before I toss it into the trash. Once it's soaking wet, it goes into a ziplock sandwich bag before I discard it.
Jerry

Hi Chevy Mom,

Nice to see someone else on here with a '46. I've got a 3/4 ton stake bed. I love the "Art Deco" look of the front grill. Mine was in pretty decent shape and all the parts were there, except for the air cleaner.

The bed in mine, as well as the stakes, are shot. I do a lot of wood working so I'm going to do the bed wood myself once it's all up and running. Mine was originally Brewster green with black fenders. If I ever get around to a full rebuild I'm thinking about Medium Cream cab and hood with Windsor Blue fenders.

I've been looking around for an option for the brakes but my truck has 8 lug wheels and they're not easy to find. Same goes for a power booster for the system. Because they're manual transmissions there isn't enough room on the frame for the booster, and so far I haven't found one that just bolts onto the firewall. I've been told it's too thin to hold up.

Joe