Have a 65 C10 with a 350 crate motor in front of SM435 that came out of a 68 Chevy or GMC. The clutch is a standard 65 mechanical linkage. While taking my foot off the pedal and pause right at the point of engagement (like when I'm backing up a driveway or starting off in 2nd) I'm getting a medium pitched buzzing or whirring noise but no noticeable vibration in the pedal. The noise stops by moving the pedal either side of the engagement point... there's only maybe a 1/4 or 1/2 inch in the middle of the pedal that it's really bad. I should add that I do not have a dust cover on over the flywheel because I can't find one, though I never drive the truck in anything but nice sunny days and on pavement.
Does anyone know what this noise could be and how I can get rid of it?
This is normally an easy fix, more than several times on a few of my vehicles, it is the clutch spring slightly bouncing. The first time it happened a number of years ago it almost drove me crazy. I'm much crazier now. Check it out. Doc
Last edited by Doc.Hall; 06/08/20202:25 PM. Reason: grammer
Currently making 1954 3100 better than new and Genetics
I agree, found a broken spring on the pressure plate -a similar problem I had many years ago
1953 Chevrolet 3100 261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done In the DITY Gallery Video of the 261 running
1964 GMC 1000 305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
So if it's a broken or bouncing clutch spring, do I have to drop the transmission to replace the pressure plate? Also, how do I keep it from happening again?
No, the dust cover I need is a two piece setup, similar to what goes on the SM420. Classic parts has the item number in their catalog. Unfortunately you search for it online and nothing comes up. Slightly disappointing!
sstock is correct, yup gotta drop tranny. But wait there is more! It may only be the clutch return spring attached to the clutch peddle, had that happen on a 57'. Doc
Currently making 1954 3100 better than new and Genetics
sstock is correct, yup gotta drop tranny. But wait there is more! It may only be the clutch return spring attached to the clutch peddle, had that happen on a 57'. Doc
If the issue is only the return spring, I'm going to jump with joy. I'll let you know what I find out! Thank you Doc!
I took the truck for a quick drive just now. The spring from the firewall to the pedal is tight. The spring from the frame to the fork is tight. The fork has no play front or back It also would appear if I either engage the clutch more slowly or give it a little more gas, I can avoid making any noise at all.
My other vehicle is a 2017 Tacoma with a manual transmission, but a hydraulic clutch and and no physical throttle linkage. I'm quickly learning that I can not drive these two vehicles the same way!
Yea i contribute alot of issues to driver era. It takes awhile to figure out what different vehicles like. There can be 10 similar vehicles and none of them will duplicate the other in starting , steering, shifting, or stopping. Then as i get older, i find that once i figure 1 out and start driving something else, i somewhat forget what ive learned in the begin with. The fun of having to many vehicles i guess. Ha
Yea i contribute alot of issues to driver era. It takes awhile to figure out what different vehicles like. There can be 10 similar vehicles and none of them will duplicate the other in starting , steering, shifting, or stopping. Then as i get older, i find that once i figure 1 out and start driving something else, i somewhat forget what ive learned in the begin with. The fun of having to many vehicles i guess. Ha
Keep driving it...if it's a throw out bearing or pilot bushing it will get worse and show it's head again...making the problem/mystery easier to find/solve.
Mike B
Mike Boteler
1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod 1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep 1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo 1984 Jeep CJ7 +++++ Silver Spring, MD
Keep driving it...if it's a throw out bearing or pilot bushing it will get worse and show it's head again...making the problem/mystery easier to find/solve.
Okay I really don't think I have a pilot bearing or throw out bearing issue. Reason being (and what I failed to mention) is I installed the clutch, brand new, in 2018. The clutch has maybe 3000 miles on it. There shouldn't be any reason those bearings would have failed so quickly right?
I do have a squeak or chirp in neutral with the clutch engaged and it goes away with pedal pressure. I'm thinking that's a problem with the fork. I'm going to lubricate the fork and throw out bearing. I also located the correct flywheel cover and will install that just as soon as it is delivered.
Let me know if you guys can think of anything else I'm missing.
This is 2020, bearings ain’t what they used to be.ðŸ›
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
My pilot bushing went bad by 3000 miles. Most of the common suppliers sell steel pilot bushings. I wasn't savvy enough to realize the yellow tinged bushing I installed was steel. I am in the process of replacing it with a OEM bronze one that comes with some internal grooves. Don't know that this is your issue but just a head's up. Wish I knew about the differences when I put the truck together.
glenns towing, yup! still learning and forgetting in Florida, feels like temp today is a feels like temp of 118. That's why I'm slowly going crazy, maybe sooner. Doc
Currently making 1954 3100 better than new and Genetics
