The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Need HEI Help on '57...

The short story goes like this: Truck sat for 9+ years. I have fuel to the carb now, power TO the coil, but no power from coil to points type distributor. Points were corroded, so I filed them. Ignition wires were cut by the p.o. I swapped coils with one from my 69 Camaro. Still no juice to the distributor. I made a jumper from the "+" of battery to the "+" of the coil and hooked up my remote starter. Engine turns, but no spark.
I am going to the pull a part tomorrow to look for a used HEI setup. I know that it needs to have the vacuum advance port and should be older than 1980. Here's what I need to know: Any recommendations on vehicles to look for? Anyone know the proper spot to hook up the power wire to? What do I do about the ballast resistor and wires? You guys/gals have helped me sooo much, I really appreciate it!
Dan B

MrDanB,

I Looked back at your previous posts....what a novel. If you have tried two coils and neither one gets you 12 volts on the - side when the points are open, then either both coils are bad (not likely) OR, you have a short to ground on that side of the coil you shouldn't have. This could be anything from the primary lead wire to a bad condenser to faulty points.

A GM HEI will not use a ballast resistor. All that would be needed would be a 12 volt source that is switched with the key.

The wiring to the coil/ignition is probably the simplest circuit on the whole truck. You are doing something wrong or don't understand the concept if you have not triumphed after so many posts on this same subject.

Do you have any meters or voltage circuit testers. Have you read the instruction on how to use them. These are the tools that will show you what is going on.


Stuart

HEI first started in '74 or '75 if I remember right. You want one from a Chevrolet V-8 from before the computer days, and if I remember correctly before 1980 is about right.

You might want to price a new one. I bought one at a local parts store once because I didn't want to mess with used. This was less than five years ago and it was something they had in stock. I think I asked for one for a '75 Chevy pickup because the '75 Chevy pickup I once owned had one.

Stuart is right, you don't need the resistor once you swap to HEI.

I'd still like to come over and trouble shoot this thing with you, but it will be after Christmas now before my schedule allows it.

I would not buy a second distributor because then you add retiming to the problems you already have. I would buy new points and condenser. ....one question, if you are using a remote starter swith to turn the engine over, did you remember to turn the ignition on to allow it to start?

If you go HEI, be careful where you hook the wire on the solenoid. Make sure you put it on the R pole and not the S pole. Voice of experience here!!

Thanks for the replies! I realize that the ballast is obsolete with the hei upgrade. I have very little experience with points and condensor's. I have been reading and reading on it though. I figured that an hei would remove the "old technology" aspect. Since the p.o. cut all the ignition wires AND the ignition switch doesn't seem to be the one that our manual shows, it is a little confusing... I DO have 2 continuity testers. One beeps and one lights up. If I were to keep the points distributor, then the next thing to look at is probably the black wire that comes off the "-" side of the coil and seems to go up into the base plate of the distributor. Probably attaches to the condensor? Maybe buying new points and a condensor would be a cheap way to see if that's why the "-" wire is the culprit. I'll monkey with it some more and see if I can get the juice to the distributor...
Dan

Different vehicle but I got fed up with the points set up in my 67 Lincoln vert. I threw one of these in http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ACC%2D2005&N=700+%2D121776+115&autoview=sku

Works like a charm with the stock points distributor.

I like the HEI but they don,t fit to well on the 55-59 trucks. There isn,t much room between the firewall & engine for the large dist. I use the Crane Cams conversion kit in that model. You should be able to get it started with the point type dist. Turn the key on & put a screwdriver on the points. When you open & close them or short across them you should get a spark everytime the circuit is broken. A new set of points & cond. will probably fix it.